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HF Baluns - How to pick the right one for the job

Moleculo

Ham Radio Nerd
Apr 14, 2002
9,262
1,829
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I've seen quite a few questions on this forum and others over the last several months about questions on baluns.

How about someone write up a short article on how to choose the right balun for the job? Voltage vs. Current, ratios, choosing the right one for the type of antenna, etc.

Anyone?
 

I've seen quite a few questions on this forum and others over the last several months about questions on baluns.

How about someone write up a short article on how to choose the right balun for the job? Voltage vs. Current, ratios, choosing the right one for the type of antenna, etc.

Anyone?

Mole,

http://www.dxengineering.com/Products.asp?ID=50&SecID=10&DeptID=9
Click on their informational link on "Choosing a Balun"

It is chock full of the information one would need in choosing a balun based on the type of antenna you want to put up.

Hope this helps!

Wayne C.

 
Seems to be a bad link?

Anyway, I wasn't necessarily looking for an answer to a question...was just more trying to get a discussion started...
 
It's fairly simple, but can get complicated in a hurry. A balun is used to match a 'balanced' antenna with an 'unbalanced' feed line. For a typical balun, the balanced/unbalanced thingy is looking from the antenna to the feed line. The balanced part is typically the output of a balun, the unbalanced part is typically the input of the balun.
The impedance ratio is looked at from the other direction. The feed line is the '1'. The impedance of the antenna is the other side of that ratio thingy (2 or 4 or 76, whatever). If the feed line is 50 ohms and the antenna input impedance is 100 ohms, then use a 2:1. If feed line = 50 ohms and the antenna's input is 200 ohms, use a 4:1. And 1:1 if the antenna's input impedance is 50 ohms.
Close counts to some degree. If a balun's transformation ratio is such that it gets the impedance match close to about 1.5:1, then it's probably going to work well. If it won't get sort of that close, it just ain't gonna work too well. Try something else. Probably a closer to reality number is like 2:1 for SWR, sort of.
Then there's the really 'different' solution, use two of the things. If the correct combination of impedance ratios is picked, you can match almost anything, sort of.
And then there's the 'other' side of using baluns. They are typically just another 'point of failure' is one is used that doesn't exceed the voltage/current/power ratings necessary for the particular application. Which basically means use a much larger balun than you think is necessary in terms of voltage/current/power capacity. Having a capacity of two or three times what you think you'll ever feed the thing ain't unreasonable at all.
Baluns do not always stop the feed line from radiating. They do not always cure RFI. And they are not the answer to most problems of that nature. They can certainly help though, if the problem arises from a balanced to unbalanced condition, or a hugely mismatched impedance ratio.

There, that ought'a get it started...
- 'Doc
 
Baluns

Hello All:

Good call Moleculo: I have seen beams work way down in frequency and have a really bad SWR on the wanted band. All because the coax feed line was apart of the antenna, as the outside of the coax shield wire was not isolated from being apart of the antenna. This is usually the case for dipole and split driven elements in Yagi beam antennas.

Another thing to look for is the false SWR reading that sometimes occurs when the just right length of coax is used on a balanced antenna without a Balun. Adding in another length of coax will change the SWR significantly indicating that the coax outer shield is radiating and is now part of the antenna throwing things off.

The Balun is an essential part of even a simple dipole antenna. And the Web Sites you have listed are great.

Ok editing this in for some web site address's:
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/3977

http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/643


Jay in the Great Mojave Desert, .....just down the road ah ways from the fillin station.
 
Last edited:
OK, how about a Line Isolator used with a Wire Antenna say like a OCF Dipole.

The ARRL handbook 19th edition on chapter @ page 7-7 states that the currents
flowing in the wires will not be equal (This also means that antenna current can
flow on the feeder- on the outside of the coaxial line.

Depending on the impedance of the RF current on outside of the feed line, and that
currents should be equal and flowing into the short leg the same as with the long leg.

A current or choke type of balum provides just such operation.... says the Handbook.

Doc and others, besides a 4to1 @ 6to1 balum !! Seems more to know from our ones
of knowledge and experience.

I am All Ears :)


John, KD5WJY
 
Hey Dealer!
If you're 'all ears'... do you flap in a breeze?
...just curious...
- 'Doc

don't pay any attention...been a long day
 
Hello All:

Good call Moleculo: I have seen beams work way down in frequency and have a really bad SWR on the wanted band. All because the coax feed line was apart of the antenna, as the outside of the coax shield wire was not isolated from being apart of the antenna. This is usually the case for dipole and split driven elements in Yagi beam antennas.

Another thing to look for is the false SWR reading that sometimes occurs when the just right length of coax is used on a balanced antenna without a Balun. Adding in another length of coax will change the SWR significantly indicating that the coax outer shield is radiating and is now part of the antenna throwing things off.

The Balun is an essential part of even a simple dipole antenna. And the Web Sites you have listed are great.


Jay in the Great Mojave Desert, .....just down the road ah ways from the fillin station.

Jay good point..... I am seeing the same thing right now with my Signal Engineering Lightning 4+ Quad Beam. If I change the coax length in the Shack it will change my SWR. Indicating that my coax is part of the antenna system and radiating..... A bad thing:thumbdown: My question is how do I fix this? what is the correct way to tune this beam so the coax will not becoming part of the antenna and radiate:confused:
Will tuning the antenna with a 3' or 6' foot jumper connected to my antenna analyzer fix this? When the beam was originally tuned it was tune with the analyzer connected to the end of the feed line inside my shack 118' away. That might be my problem. I have 2....... 1:1 balun kits from Palomar Engineering that I am going to attach at the feed point to help stop RF from flowing back down the feed line But I want to tune this beam correctly so all the RF radiates out of the antenna not the feed line.

Help:confused:
 

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