Home wiring experts - need help, questions on wiring and code

[Big Kahuna]

Non-radio wiring question for those who know 110v electrical code - really appreciate any help to know if I did this whole thing to code or the right way for that matter.

So I consider myself pretty savvy when installing radios and all things DC, but when it comes to home wiring I’m a little more careful so I’d like to make sure I’m during everything properly and to code.

I bought a security camera that had all the features I wanted (ebay – Chinese PTZ model) and it came with a AC-DC converter 12V 4a (similar to a laptop style one). Non-UL approved of course. Problem is that my camera is being installed outdoors permanently – there is a socket (GFI) right below it but I need a 12V converter I can plug in outdoors that is weatherproof.

This will be a long term outdoor install (5 years+)

I bought this UL approved IP67 converter - Amazon product ASIN B00NPAKTVM
It has the plug that will plug into the security camera DC plug but it didn’t come with a 3 prong plug to plug into the outdoor socket so I need to wire one.

I bought a 8ft 16 gauge replacement style wire from lowes but my question is regarding safe wiring for code in this outdoor install. I wanted to wire the replacement cord directly to the converter but it’s sealed up very well and I don’t want to pull out their cord and put mine in and then have it not be as waterproof where the wire comes out of the case.

# 1 – I bought a plastic marine junction box (like this http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-17464436enh-z8.jpg ) that has the black seal and drilled holes on either side for the power wires to come in – the holes are barely big enough for the wire to squeeze through so the junction box is basically sealed.

# 2 – I bought specialty waterproof twist wire connectors - https://www.lowes.com/pd/DryConn-25-Pack-Plastic-and-Metal-Standard-Wire-Connectors/3726292 and hooked up the green/white/black accordingly and put the wire caps on. Then I used small zip ties and zip tied each set of wires together (to prevent any risk of them pulling apart and coming out of the wire cap).

# 3 – I put a larger zip tie around the two black input power cords to prevent strain on either side from possibly pulling the individual smaller wires apart.

# 4 – Mounting – The junction box will be directly screwed to the wood trim on the outside of the house and the power cord will run down to the outdoor outlet (which has the locking outdoor cover with the small divot for the cable to run into).

# 5 – The AC/DC converter mounting – I was going to try to find a junction box to something for it but I couldn’t find anything to fit it (everything was too large or too small), and I was worried that anything too small/tight might make it get too hot in the summertime if there isn’t any space for air flow. It’s IP67 rated but it’s Chinese and I’m not sure about mounting it directly to the wood trim – as a safety precaution I’m thinking I’ll use spacers with the screws so it will sit about 1” away from the wood so if it overheats, sparks, burns up, etc, it won’t be right on the wood.

#6 – The connection of the security camera and converter wires I’m going to wrap in some electrical tape and then use heat shrink tubing over the top.

Any input or other suggestions?

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

Before I would try and weather proof a 120-12 volt converter and plug it in outside I would run a 12 volt cable to the outside camera and plug the power supply in inside the house. Someone could easily reach and unplug it from the outside but if the camera is out of reach then the wiring could be run so as to be out of reach as well.

 

[Big Kahuna]

So I agree but they were some reasons why I ended up with this setup -

A) I can't drill into the house at all to run anything inside and even if I could there isn't an inside socket anywhere near this spot anyway - I'd have to do a super long run in the ceiling
B) This spot is totally inaccessible to anyone without a really tall ladder and it's basically hidden so no one would even know to try to unplug it so it's a good spot
C) There is a outside Christmas light socket that was right next to the install location so that's why I chose it as the power was already there.
D) When I move, I can just unscrew the entire setup and unplug it in about 5 mins and aside from the screw holes nothing is worse for wear and I won't get in trouble for having drilled holes/run wire etc. But this is also the same reason why I want to make sure anything I install is safe and no one is going to bitch at me for my setup and I can say - it's all safe and I did this and this to make it so.

The converter doesn't need to be waterproofed - it's IP67. It's just the wiring between it and the 8 foot plug I'm adding that need to be waterproofed.

 

[338_MtRushmore]

Is the camera itself approved for outdoor use?

 

[Big Kahuna]

Yes - this is the camera - http://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-Zoom-Wi...292183?hash=item5d64cfb417:g:k4EAAOSwNsdXRW5l

Ip66 waterproof and rated for outdoor use (just comes with a non-outdoor power supply since it's indoor/outdoor rated).

I specifically ordered this camera because it has 20x zoom and the wireless IP was necessary because of the mounting location and I couldn't run wires into the house.

The camera is actually pretty awesome once you figure out the chinese software.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Here's some pics -

 

[Road Squawker]

...Ip66 waterproof and rated for outdoor use (just comes with a non-outdoor power supply since it's indoor/outdoor rated).....

You are good to go, the IP66 is a standard rating for waterproof enclosures.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ained/&usg=AFQjCNHqQguxXgFmoQcqa5ZUZqWU8mG6pw

 

[BBB]

I would have put the power supply in the PVC box also so only one box was visible. Granted the PVC box would probably have needed to be larger. Wires should only enter the box from the side or bottom via water proof connectors. Put a drip loop (or small drop) in the wires just prior to entry. Drill (2) 1/4" water drain holes in the bottom of the box. If more ventilation is needed, install (2) drip proof screened vents on the sides. Then paint the box to match the background.

 

[338_MtRushmore]

I'd just run it, but make sure that top penitration is sealed well. Just tell anyone that asked that it is acceptable per code. In reality, I doubt the camera would meet code anyways. I didn't see a single mention of any type of certification. I can spray a camera in my back yard and claim ip standards, but it wouldn't be certified.
Bottom line, make sure the gfi works, and don't stress about it.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Awesome - thanks guys. GFI socket is working. The junction box cord entering from the top is probably the weak spot but you virtually can't pull or push it without 20lbs of pressure as I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the wire. I'll put some silicone around that wire.

I wanted to enclose the converter but there just wasn't a good size box for it, I looked everywhere. Ideally it would need a 10 x 4 x 2 for a good fit and to fit on the trim wood.

No rain/snow will probably ever hit any of these components unless it's coming sideways at 70mph which can happen once or twice a year and even then it wouldn't be constant.

I got everything up and running and I've got live video.

I just need to put my heat shrink on the DC connection between the PS and camera and I think it should be good.

The camera only has a 1.3mp sensor but it has 20x zoom and the wireless IP connection which are two very hard things to find in a security camera, that's why I went with this version - the only other ones I could find were $2k plus and this one was $180.

 

[Beetle]

OH! You wanted help on THAT kind of "code".

Silly me!

 

[222DBFL]

You cal also add a rubber grommet to the top cable entry hole. That is if you wanted to. That would help seal things off s bit better as well. Just food for thought. And I am with BBB, the best option would have been to place both the power supply and coax/cable in the junction box as well. But it doesn't look bad the way it is at all. Just more protection the way BBB stated. As long as it works and isn't leaking water into the inside, you should be fine.
Also I see you pinched the inner rubber ring a bit tightening down the screws. Looks like at the right side of the junction box. See the black inner rubber ring sticking out a little. Appears to be pinched a little. May want to loosen the cover and make sure that black rubber ring is placed correctly all the way around and not getting pinched. Again, just some food for thought.
You did a good job Big Kahuna and as long as it works and isn't easily accessible, should work just fine.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Thanks man - the seal was pretty good so even pinched I think it will be okay. I've wired lights, fans, switches, and installed and hard wired appliances but this was the first time (aside from an outside light) that I had to install something permanently outside that needed weatherproofing so it was an interesting experience.

Now if anyone needs any help on setting up the chinese camera software and streaming the feed I'm now an expert