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Homebrew cw key

dc2rf

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Jan 15, 2014
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Wishing to get back into cw again, I looked on the 'net to see what was available for a key. I was disappointed to see that anything I wished to have cost a heck of a lot of money. Sure, I saw some wonderful craftsmanship, but I couldn't justify spending so much on just a key. Anything in my price range was lightweight plastic and tiny.

great...

Well, like I usually end up doing, I decided to make my own. I looked high and low for parts (hardware), to put together something that looked good as well as worked properly. Unfortunately, besides the high cost of purchasing anything new that's ham related, I found it also has become quite difficult to find hardware to build anything that looks decent. Real hardware stores have pretty much vanished, and in their place, "home improvement" stores are the rule.

This leaves the builder in the position of having to be very creative, as one has to "make-do" by using imagination to make some item fit/work, making it to do something other than the manufacturer intended. I have a decent "treasure trove" of electronic parts, but when it comes to simple metal parts, I seldom can find what I need at home. I end up at the Home Improvement stores rummaging through bins to "make do". When the stores "helper" stops by to help me, I say "thanks but I'm doing ok. If I really told him what I was doing, he wouldn't know what to say anyway. :)

Well, enough of my critique of the state of homebrewing. Back to the project.

I started by looking for something "squarish" and heavy. I thought about marble for "looks" but wondered where to find it. I lucked out by going to a store that made custom countertops and found out that they had samples of stone... exactly what I was looking for! They gave me one of the samples just for asking... wow! Needing something flexible, but a conductor of electricity, I chose a miniature hacksaw blade for the paddle arm... nice and "springy". I wanted a good conductor for the contacts. I had some gold plated battery contacts from an old motorola 2-way that fit the bill perfectly. For the "grips" on the paddle arm, I just glued a couple buttons to the hacksaw blade... cheap and easy. The hard part was the angle supports. I SO wanted to find brass angle for the supports but had absolutely no luck anywhere. I even looked online and had no luck. I had to settle for cheap looking aluminum. I really wanted the elegant look of brass to "work" with the marble. It seems that the stores have pretty much quit stocking nearly all brass hardware.

Well, having the parts, it was time for assembly. I had to cut and shape the aluminum, drill and install the gold contacts. Mount the hacksaw blade in the supports and get it perfectly level with the base. O.K., now the hard part... how do you anchor the supports to the marble? There was no way I was going to drill marble. I came up with idea of super-gluing the supports to the marble base. The hard part of that idea was that the supports had to be placed exactly perfect, or the key would be out of "alignment". I drilled one hole in each support. I carefully aligned each support, held it in place with one hand as I put a drop of super glue in the hole with the other hand. After waiting for about 15 seconds, I could let go and the part stayed in place. The glue seeped under the support and held it very secure. I cut the heads off of four small screws and glued them over the holes. looking at the picture, you would think I screwed the supports down into the marble. On the hidden side of the marble block, a DIN three conductor terminal block serves as the termination point for the stereo jack cord to the keyer. The final thing left was gluing some "anti-slide" foam stuff underneath the marble block. I got it from the XYL. It's the stuff she lined cabinets with so that dishes wouldn't slide around. It really works well on the key. With the weight of the marble and the non-skid pad, the key stays put on the desk.

The final result and conclusion:

The keyer works quite well! Sending cw with it is effortless.

I was really disappointed that I couldn't get brass in place of aluminum. The key would have looked a lot more "professional" with it.

I'm not sure I would do all this all over again if I wanted another key. It was a heck of a lot of work and time chasing parts and "machining" the aluminum by hand with no real workshop at my home.

On the positive side, the key was pretty inexpensive to build, so I saved a lot of money. The key is a lot better than the plastic versions available.
 

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I'm new to this but am very interested in homebrew. Would love to see a pic of your keyer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I love homebrew it looks good and I like the materials you used nice work (y)

I wish I was able to work code but I don't have the rhythm :blush:
 
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Thanks mkube396!

You mentioned not having rythym for it. I'll just guess and say you mean you have trouble trying to receive it, and not sending it with a key.

I learned the code by listening to it sent slowly on a recording. The recording sent the letters in random, so you couldn't memorize it. After I listened to it over and over, I got more and more of the letters correct. After a while, the sending seemed to be real slow, so I got a random letter recording that was faster sending. Soon, that seemed slow, and I was copying it pretty accurately. After a few months, I was able to pass the 20 w.p.m. requirement (at that time) for the extra class license.

That worked for me, others may use other methods. Copying CW by ear is still fun, even in this digital age, and you can get a lot more "miles per watt" using it than the voice modes.
 
'Copying code' is a matter of recognizing sound patterns. You start off slowly and learn to recognize the 'pattern' for a character at a time. Once they become familiar you can put several of those sound patterns together and make words. When you get to the point where you can recognize whole words at a time, you've typically 'bumped' you copying speed up to a "normal" level(?), no matter what level/speed it is.
That 'computer' between your ears can recognize a lot of things a 'code reader' just can't do. That computer between your ears can make 'allowances' a real computer can't recognize at all. That's how it seems to works.
Then you get to learn how to make those sound patterns, how to send CW. You are supposed to know what it's supposed to sound like, all you gotta do is learn to MAKE it sound like that.
That key looks like it ought'a do just fine. Personally, I'd use larger buttons, but that's just personal preference.
Have fun.
- 'Doc
 
Doc,

Yes, you start pickup up familar patterns of sounds. You get where you recognize common things like CQ, 5nn, hi, etc.

I guess most of us had someone that suggested their favorite learning method. It also depends on when you got started. When I was starting out, the method to use was random characters on a cassette tape. You got one tape for 5wpm, there was another for 13, and another for 20. I still have a "Learning CW" 33 1/3 vinyl record in mint condition I picked up at a yard sale. :)

I understand your comment about the larger buttons. Since it was custom made for me, it's fine. I have hands and fingers like a "pianist", and not a construction worker so it "fits".

Thanks for the input!
 
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I use fingertips, so your buttons are big enough for me. I cut my right index finger to the bone at the second knuckle last year.

I still have loss of sensation distally. It still messes with me. I can now use my middle finger. My speed is the same. I just look funny.
 
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I hope, over time, you get the feeling back in your finger m42duster. Sounds like you have "compensated" pretty well for cw in spite of the injury.

I use a pretty light touch on the buttons myself.

Thanks for the "thumbs up" Bruce!
 
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Your key looks great I'm in the process of learning the code after trying a few systems that where recommended I still cold not get the knack of it then I found this site it was a real game changer for me. I'm not there yet 20wpm but I can honestly say I am on the fast track to it.
 
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