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How do i get the right size serpentine belt?
- Thread starter groundwire
- Start date
2001 or so. I didn’t say I hadn’t used online resources. Cross-reference wasn’t mentioned as THE reason behind a print catalog search set. There are other crossings based on part type.
Parallels, such as a Chevrolet part being looked at for a Dodge. Shock absorbers were one area (rebound & compression rates versus outer dimensions plus mount type). A part might get modified, or the car itself.
Searches of this sort go faster with paper. It’s not the single item, it’s the comparisons. New questions arise sooner, and can be answered faster.
Let’s make up something: (tires would be a better example) In the case of an engine-driven accessory belt, sure, one wants to know pulley diameter. The belt series. Change things, and a host of problems can emerge. Hypothetically, the original series part number was already service-marginal (move to a higher HP engine; or a truck-version higher-duty rating) and a different belt series required. Etc (that sort of problem)
So, not just length, or width. First step has always seemed to be acquisition of cross-reference. And then locating suppliers.
Some belts are “cheap”. Some are nothing of the sort. Once the engine is turned over and run, the belt can’t be returned.
In a more direct answer had I the ability to keep several screens open simultaneously, the same search type can be done. Albeit at a great deal more expense. Typing isn’t fast.
Computer searches are only fast for those without facility or expertise in other search types. For GP purposes they’re okay.
The second part of being “friends” at the Napa DC was that I could (finally) request a stock pick and make physical examination. Pay restock (rare) when several part numbers came out to the front counter.
That ended my day at the DC.
Usually I’d reach a point of calling the manufacturer. Got lucky on occasion to talk with an actual engineer, Though there were reps well-versed for my type of questions more often or not. I’d also “walk up to” the world of racing where a specialty supplier would be mentioned. I might know if them or not.
Paper isn’t replaced by electrons for speed. Computers exist for themselves (needs override ostensible service offered).
A whoppin’ Super HD alternator swap “could” engender more trouble than its worth. I don’t think it will. Its the TYPE of search at hand where the non-stock application shows how shitty is computer-dependence.
I’d say this is where computers seem worthwhile: looking for who may have done it before.
Creates it’s own problems, and then offers “remediation”.
.
I still do the same at our local auto parts buying random things for equipment. The plus is they have a great inventory. So when I need an obscure relay for a piece of heavy equipment - or whatever - good chance we can find it in a paper book and the computer has to do is check the inventory.
Still requires the right guy behind the counter. That’s the point of failure.
Still requires the right guy behind the counter. That’s the point of failure.
I miss the days when you just went in the parts store and tell the guy what you need and he would turn around and go get it.
If you say so. It really doesn't seem that complicated to me. I do know enough not to argue with a truck driver.
Tell them you're taking out the Air conditioning - or changing a size...
Back when, the Belt length WAS measured in Inches.
Now it is measured by mm (millimeter) so they usually stock the belt as an indexed reference in Metric sizes to handle the aftermarket.
So say you have a your 97" belt, convert it to mm...
To Get mm = multiply inches by 25.4
X = 97 * 25.4
X = 2463.8 or just round up to 2464...
Now, they may have this in stock but it's listed as (Brand) 3K - 246 - 4
They used Centimeter and the oddball (4) as the last digit is the offset length Perimeter to Interior - K can be the reference to the Rib/Composition - V X 4 structure
On certain websites, that all they use is the mm or Metric equivalent - so as long as you can convert to mm or Centimeters (divide mm result by 10 to get the cm size as you see above) you should be good to go.
One word of caution - they usually "skip" specific sizing - because; say you need an Alternator Belt to fit but don't have A/C? I've seen 3650 (365.0cm) or 360 CM but not 3624 mm - they'd have in 3600 (mm) or 3650 (mm) so you'd need to buy the size LOWER then what you originally have measured - at least within 50mm or 5cm - so go with the 3600 mm size and then you can tension/adjust tensioner as needed.
Below is Inch reference but Metric may be easier for the store clerk to go get it for you.
Back when, the Belt length WAS measured in Inches.
Now it is measured by mm (millimeter) so they usually stock the belt as an indexed reference in Metric sizes to handle the aftermarket.
So say you have a your 97" belt, convert it to mm...
To Get mm = multiply inches by 25.4
X = 97 * 25.4
X = 2463.8 or just round up to 2464...
Now, they may have this in stock but it's listed as (Brand) 3K - 246 - 4
They used Centimeter and the oddball (4) as the last digit is the offset length Perimeter to Interior - K can be the reference to the Rib/Composition - V X 4 structure
On certain websites, that all they use is the mm or Metric equivalent - so as long as you can convert to mm or Centimeters (divide mm result by 10 to get the cm size as you see above) you should be good to go.
One word of caution - they usually "skip" specific sizing - because; say you need an Alternator Belt to fit but don't have A/C? I've seen 3650 (365.0cm) or 360 CM but not 3624 mm - they'd have in 3600 (mm) or 3650 (mm) so you'd need to buy the size LOWER then what you originally have measured - at least within 50mm or 5cm - so go with the 3600 mm size and then you can tension/adjust tensioner as needed.
- Using the above 50 mm increment - as you go into LONGER sizes - the sizing issue becomes more moot because of the sheer lengths needed to run the serpentine thru all those pulleys and then the tensioner assembly becomes less critical - so if you're pulley is a smaller diameter - this means they use a smaller pulley to "spin up" the shaft of that alternator to provide more power in the charging system for slower RPM vehicles that use a modified Automatic CVT transmission where the engine can run just above idle throughout most of the in-city driving speed ranges and barely crack 2,000 RPM if accelerating and back down to about 1,100 RPM as they cruise.
- So they "spin up" so that usually then indicates the adage of LOWERING the distance the belt travels to make the circumference of the pulley attain one revolution. (Spin up - same speed, same distance, but Pulley attains more torque and speed to convert to rotation. So again - use the smaller - shorter size - to achieve this.
Below is Inch reference but Metric may be easier for the store clerk to go get it for you.
Different alternator: how to measure for serpentine belt
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...or-how-to-measure-for-serpentine-belt.123457/
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...or-how-to-measure-for-serpentine-belt.123457/
When I got my last car, went out and took some photos of the engine compartment - quite helpful.
First set starting CN and ending in AA are the actual OEM part numbers...
The cross reference - the part I was mentioning - are the 6PK 1030 referring to 6 V-rib "perimeter" K for type of composition, the 1030 is the "circumference" in Millimeter - about 3.3 feet around - it is a specialized "stretch belt" which they call "lifetime service belt" which this "EPDM and PA66" refers to.
It also means
So knowing my research - you now know, that it is important to know your numbers and to take pics of new stuff. Because once you own it - it's used - so enjoy it before the new smell is gone and the part numbers are wore off.
First set starting CN and ending in AA are the actual OEM part numbers...
The cross reference - the part I was mentioning - are the 6PK 1030 referring to 6 V-rib "perimeter" K for type of composition, the 1030 is the "circumference" in Millimeter - about 3.3 feet around - it is a specialized "stretch belt" which they call "lifetime service belt" which this "EPDM and PA66" refers to.
It also means
- - the OEM was too cheap to put in a tensioner, so to save our a**'es we put on this "Stretch belt" and once it comes off, get another ok?
So knowing my research - you now know, that it is important to know your numbers and to take pics of new stuff. Because once you own it - it's used - so enjoy it before the new smell is gone and the part numbers are wore off.