Typically, the procedure is this::
1. Hook everything up (radio to amp, amp to wattmeter, wattmeter to dummy load which is capable of handling the full output of the amp for as long as it take you to perform the tune-up).
2. Set your radio's output to as low of a setting as it will go to, typically one watt or so.
3. Set the amp's " LOAD " control to mid-point and the " TUNE " control to about the same point.
4. Key your radio and " QUICKLY " turn the " TUNE " control back and forth to get a feel for the proper direction to increase power, then " UNKEY " and wait a few seconds for things to cool down.
5. Key up the radio again and watch your " OUTPUT " wattmeter while rotating the " TUNE " control for maximum power out. The " PLATE " meter should indicate proper neutralization of the tubes " IF ", you see a pronounced dip which co-incides with maximum output. If it doesn't, you need to neutralize/balance the load power between the tubes. There is a control " INSIDE " the amp for this purpose if your amp is worth a plug nickle. " BUT " *** BEWARE *** of the " EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGES " present inside the amp! " THEY CAN BE DEADLY!!! "
6. After tuning the " TUNE " control for max smoke (highest wattage as seen on an external wattmeter) then unkey and let things cool a moment.
7. Next key the radio again and adjust the " LOAD " control for maximum smoke.
8. Unkey and wait a moment, then go back and re-peak the " TUNE " control again.
9. Finish up by adjusting the " LOAD " again for max smoke while keeping plate current to a safe level.
10. Now you have preliminary settings, and can begin increasing your radio's drive power. Increase to the wattage you expect to be driving the amp with, and repeat the tune procedure.
11. Once tuned into a " DUMMY LOAD ", then switch to your antenna, and re-peak. If your antenna is adjusted properly, you should not need to re-adjust the amp much, if at all. If your antenna is mis-tuned, then you'll have to re-adjust the amp.
12. For frequency excursions within the same band, you should be able to leave the load control alone (pretty much) and simply tweak the " TUNE " control a bit to re-gain power lost by changing frequencies. If you seem to lose a LOT of power, you may have to re-adjust the " LOAD " control accordingly.
13. Always make sure that your " PLATE CURRENT " dips at practically the same tuning point as " MAX SMOKE ". Slightly off a bit is " OK ". Some people advance the " LOAD " control slightly to lessen power a few watts because it supposedly makes the amp sound better. Use signal reports from others to see if this adjustment benefits you or not.
14. If you don't dip the plate, you're going to wind up burning up a set of tubes.I know some of you will do this even if you do dip the plate current.Remember the filaments are supposed to glow bright orange not the plates!
1. Hook everything up (radio to amp, amp to wattmeter, wattmeter to dummy load which is capable of handling the full output of the amp for as long as it take you to perform the tune-up).
2. Set your radio's output to as low of a setting as it will go to, typically one watt or so.
3. Set the amp's " LOAD " control to mid-point and the " TUNE " control to about the same point.
4. Key your radio and " QUICKLY " turn the " TUNE " control back and forth to get a feel for the proper direction to increase power, then " UNKEY " and wait a few seconds for things to cool down.
5. Key up the radio again and watch your " OUTPUT " wattmeter while rotating the " TUNE " control for maximum power out. The " PLATE " meter should indicate proper neutralization of the tubes " IF ", you see a pronounced dip which co-incides with maximum output. If it doesn't, you need to neutralize/balance the load power between the tubes. There is a control " INSIDE " the amp for this purpose if your amp is worth a plug nickle. " BUT " *** BEWARE *** of the " EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGES " present inside the amp! " THEY CAN BE DEADLY!!! "
6. After tuning the " TUNE " control for max smoke (highest wattage as seen on an external wattmeter) then unkey and let things cool a moment.
7. Next key the radio again and adjust the " LOAD " control for maximum smoke.
8. Unkey and wait a moment, then go back and re-peak the " TUNE " control again.
9. Finish up by adjusting the " LOAD " again for max smoke while keeping plate current to a safe level.
10. Now you have preliminary settings, and can begin increasing your radio's drive power. Increase to the wattage you expect to be driving the amp with, and repeat the tune procedure.
11. Once tuned into a " DUMMY LOAD ", then switch to your antenna, and re-peak. If your antenna is adjusted properly, you should not need to re-adjust the amp much, if at all. If your antenna is mis-tuned, then you'll have to re-adjust the amp.
12. For frequency excursions within the same band, you should be able to leave the load control alone (pretty much) and simply tweak the " TUNE " control a bit to re-gain power lost by changing frequencies. If you seem to lose a LOT of power, you may have to re-adjust the " LOAD " control accordingly.
13. Always make sure that your " PLATE CURRENT " dips at practically the same tuning point as " MAX SMOKE ". Slightly off a bit is " OK ". Some people advance the " LOAD " control slightly to lessen power a few watts because it supposedly makes the amp sound better. Use signal reports from others to see if this adjustment benefits you or not.
14. If you don't dip the plate, you're going to wind up burning up a set of tubes.I know some of you will do this even if you do dip the plate current.Remember the filaments are supposed to glow bright orange not the plates!