NEVER use a grinder on any non ferrous metal, alum, copper, ect.
It can clog the grind wheel and cause it to "explode".
It can clog the grind wheel and cause it to "explode".
-
You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
I need copper buss bar help
- Thread starter groundwire
- Start date
Great thank for the help. I think i have all the knowledge i need to proceed to victory on this project lol. Thanks for all the input guys. Oh just fyi, im using these bus bars to connect my battery bank together in the mobile. Thanks againGroundwire: That bar will cut very easy. Hacksaw blade 18/24/32 tooth count should work well. (24 or 32 will leave a nice cut) When your done with cut a small flat or half round file will remove the "burrs" on the cut edge. The edge should be smooth to the touch, round the corners slightly also. The edge should be so that rubbing fingers or skin against it should not feel sharp/prickly.
Drilling, slow steady with sharp/clean bit. You can use a little motor oil/3 n 1 oil etc. will help a few drops should be all that's needed.(only 1/4 inch thick)
The hole size should be drilled so the "fastening" machine screw fits snuggly (1/4 inch machine screw use 5/16 bit). I use a tap and threaded my buss for station grounding, then use a hex nut plus star washer as a capture on the back. (little extra work/Just me)
You will need a "thin" film of NOALOX rubbed on the bar, plus the machine screws/washers/terminals etc. to keep any oxidation down. (again me)
The cheap screws and terminals tend to build up "gunk" (oxidation) over time and add resistance to the connection, thus making it less effective. I prefer using Brass machine screws/nuts/washers, as they are tend to be less of a dissimilar metal product and don't oxidize as quickly as the cheap Chinese type machine screws/nuts etc. availible at most big box stores.
I have a couple of these mounted also, these make it easy to add/remove grounding cables, when equipment changes "happen".
Just a couple of ideas to think about as you go along, changes "happen", it's nice to be prepared and making it easier over time.
NOTE: Remember "each" piece needs it's own grounding cable. Do NOT daisy chain equipment together, so a few extra holes added before the install, may help as "things" grow!
All the Best
Gary/W9FNB
Omg, explode? Thats nuts. Kaboom! Hahaha, funny, but its not. I will remember that for the future. Thanks
Tidbit: Other than recycling those shavings back into various copper products, environmental development has started to use those shavings to remove Mercury from contaminated water. A process called Mercury Amalgamation.
I believe Shatter is a better choice of words. For something to "Explode" it would require a fuel and oxidizer for catastrophic combustion. Mechanical failure is a different process.
I use these wheels all the time on aluminum. They are made for soft metal.
https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/product/gemini-alu-ao-type-27-grinding-wheel
I have used a metal cut=off saw with an abrasive disc countless times to cut aluminum pipe or angle. No problems. Aluminum will clog up grinder wheels however but I have never had it clog up my saw cut-off discs. Never had an issue with copper regardless of what I cut it with.
Diablo makes a non ferrous blade that will fit a 14 inch chop saw. Works very well for aluminum and probably copper. I believe their 10 or 12 inch blade has the same arbor as a 14 inch chop saw and is rated for the rpm. I've only cut aluminum with mine but it does a great job.
https://www.lincolnmachine.com/tap_drill_chart.htmlGroundwire: That bar will cut very easy. Hacksaw blade 18/24/32 tooth count should work well. (24 or 32 will leave a nice cut) When your done with cut a small flat or half round file will remove the "burrs" on the cut edge. The edge should be smooth to the touch, round the corners slightly also. The edge should be so that rubbing fingers or skin against it should not feel sharp/prickly.
Drilling, slow steady with sharp/clean bit. You can use a little motor oil/3 n 1 oil etc. will help a few drops should be all that's needed.(only 1/4 inch thick)
The hole size should be drilled so the "fastening" machine screw fits snuggly (1/4 inch machine screw use 5/16 bit). I use a tap and threaded my buss for station grounding, then use a hex nut plus star washer as a capture on the back. (little extra work/Just me)
You will need a "thin" film of NOALOX rubbed on the bar, plus the machine screws/washers/terminals etc. to keep any oxidation down. (again me)
The cheap screws and terminals tend to build up "gunk" (oxidation) over time and add resistance to the connection, thus making it less effective. I prefer using Brass machine screws/nuts/washers, as they are tend to be less of a dissimilar metal product and don't oxidize as quickly as the cheap Chinese type machine screws/nuts etc. availible at most big box stores.
I have a couple of these mounted also, these make it easy to add/remove grounding cables, when equipment changes "happen".
Just a couple of ideas to think about as you go along, changes "happen", it's nice to be prepared and making it easier over time.
NOTE: Remember "each" piece needs it's own grounding cable. Do NOT daisy chain equipment together, so a few extra holes added before the install, may help as "things" grow!
All the Best
Gary/W9FNB
This might help a tad
Last edited: