Ideas on putting together a CB work bench.

[Crossbow]

Hello everyone,

I am working on putting together a CB work bench to play around with and wanted to pick your brains to see if these items are a good start.

I just picked up this scope off eBay hoping it will work once it arrives. Seller had no clue other then powering it up to show it came on. It is a EZ Digital OS-5060A Analog Oscilloscope 60MHZ 45W.

I would like to know what probes I will need to use with this unit. I have never used a scope before and thought this unit would be great to learn with. Well that is if it works! Was cheap enough "$60.00" for me to pull the trigger.

Would this probe work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351737891788?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

If so is there any other probes I will need like an RF probe?

I am also looking for a stand alone frequency counter and found this one on eBay:
EZ FC-7015U 100mhZ UNIVERSAL COUNTER BENCH-TOP TEST EQUIPMENT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222263531395?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thank you for your time.
CB.

 

[Robb]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-1900A...fc9913b&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=222263531395

 

[LeapFrog]

Hello everyone,

I am working on putting together a CB work bench to play around with and wanted to pick your brains to see if these items are a good start.

I just picked up this scope off eBay hoping it will work once it arrives. Seller had no clue other then powering it up to show it came on. It is a EZ Digital OS-5060A Analog Oscilloscope 60MHZ 45W.

I would like to know what probes I will need to use with this unit. I have never used a scope before and thought this unit would be great to learn with. Well that is if it works! Was cheap enough "$60.00" for me to pull the trigger.

Would this probe work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351737891788?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

If so is there any other probes I will need like an RF probe?

I am also looking for a stand alone frequency counter and found this one on eBay:
EZ FC-7015U 100mhZ UNIVERSAL COUNTER BENCH-TOP TEST EQUIPMENT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222263531395?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thank you for your time.
CB.

Your 'Scope should be a few times the band you are working. So for CB a 50-60Mhz 'Scope would work okay (A higher bandwidth scope would be better yet).

Ideally you want to have "headroom" to look at certain signals
like for instance let's just say:
For a "50Mhz Band" a 100-150Mhz Maximum Bandwidth 'Scope would be much better.
And you would probably have to have at least an 80Mhz scope to have reliable "performance" at the "50Mhz Band"

It's something about a "refresh rate" of the scope reading so close to it's max freq. threshold, maybe something about distortion in the reading I think?!

I forgot the exact reason why this is ...& I wouldn't know how to explain it to you with facts so I am looking for a Reference Link (source) for you to read about why this is a good decision to make, especially when first deciding to buy test gear.
73 -"LeapFrog"

 

[Crossbow]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-1900A-Multi-Function-Frequency-Counter/361752698558?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=39035&meid=1a47fc171cd044268e46bc9e8fc9913b&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=222263531395

Hey Rob,
Thanks for the link. I will have to think on this one as that seller has some pretty bad feedback. I notice he said fully working unit but there is no power cord. Wonder how he tested it?

 

[M0GVZ]

If you can find one look for a Marconi 2955 or similar Radio Communications Test Set. They have pretty much everything you need in one unit both for transmit and receive including SINAD meter, power, AF and RF signal generators.

 

[Crossbow]

Your 'Scope should be a few times the band you are working. So for CB a 50-60Mhz 'Scope would work okay (A higher bandwidth scope would be better yet).

Ideally you want to have "headroom" to look at certain signals
like for instance let's just say:
For a "50Mhz Band" a 100-150Mhz Maximum Bandwidth 'Scope would be much better.
And you would probably have to have at least an 80Mhz scope to have reliable "performance" at the "50Mhz Band"

It's something about a "refresh rate" of the scope reading so close to it's max freq. threshold, maybe something about distortion in the reading I think?!

I forgot the exact reason why this is ...& I wouldn't know how to explain it to you with facts so I am looking for a Reference Link (source) for you to read about why this is a good decision to make, especially when first deciding to buy test gear.
73 -"LeapFrog"

Hey Leap,

Yeah I question that but my buddy up north that runs a CB shop told me to be on the look out for this scope as it is the one he has and said it is simple to use and works very well so I kept my eyes out for one and bought it yesterday. I am sure down the road I will have to upgrade but for now he said this one would teach me how to use one.

 

[Crossbow]

If you can find one look for a Marconi 2955 or similar Radio Communications Test Set. They have pretty much everything you need in one unit both for transmit and receive including SINAD meter, power, AF and RF signal generators.

Hey Mog,

Thanks for the info. I will keep my eyes out of this unit.

 

[2FB327]

Hey crossbow, there are other sources besides the bay. I found probes on amazon, you will want ones that matches the scope, if you have a 40 m scope get some 40 m probes.
Get two, one with the pin tip for probing and one with the squeeze hook on the end to clamp to the components.
If you "follow the search" on the bay you can end up with a good stand alone counter, but if you watch it for a week or so you'll see people you buy and resell at prices that are out of this world and they don't even know if they work. If you need any help putting it together let me know.

 

[Robb]

Hey Rob,
Thanks for the link. I will have to think on this one as that seller has some pretty bad feedback. I notice he said fully working unit but there is no power cord. Wonder how he tested it?

It uses a typical power cable common today.

I have/use this very same unit. It is my favorite for a few reasons. First, it is a Fluke - quality built unit. Second, it is extremely accurate and reliable. Third, it has a small footprint; is easy to find space to use. Fourth, resolution down to .1hz (not that you would ever need that much; but bespeaks of its capabilities).

I bought mine at a Hamfest flea market for a paltry $8 in non-working condition. Found a ribbon cable that had lost its solder connections to the board and then cleaned the switches. I also have an Hp counter; but I use the Fluke 100% of the time now. Favorite piece of gear because I fixed it, paid chicken feed for what it is worth, and is spot-on with radio alignments. Spot-on.

Most radio alignments call for a +/-20hz for a given freq; I usually hold my alignments to +5/-0hz - which is more than accurate enough. The meter can do that if you have a light,steady touch when adjusting. If the radio you are adjusting won't hold freq after a reasonable warm-up period for radio and counter; then it is time to check caps and solder joints . . .

 

[Crossbow]

Hey crossbow, there are other sources besides the bay. I found probes on amazon, you will want ones that matches the scope, if you have a 40 m scope get some 40 m probes.
Get two, one with the pin tip for probing and one with the squeeze hook on the end to clamp to the components.
If you "follow the search" on the bay you can end up with a good stand alone counter, but if you watch it for a week or so you'll see people you buy and resell at prices that are out of this world and they don't even know if they work. If you need any help putting it together let me know.

Hey 2FB,

Got ya. Found one with the pointed end and ordered it. Now to find one with the clip..
Thanks for the info.

 

[Crossbow]

It uses a typical power cable used today.

I have/use this very same unit. It is my favorite for a few reasons. First, it is a Fluke - quality built unit. Second, it is extremely accurate and reliable. Third, it has a small footprint; is easy to find space to use. Fourth, resolution down to .1hz (not that you would ever need that much; but bespeaks of its capabilities).

I bought mine at a Hamfest flea market for a paltry $8 in non-working condition. Found a ribbon cable that had lost its solder connections to the board and then cleaned the switches. I also have an Hp counter; but I use the Fluke 100% of the time now. Favorite piece of gear because I fixed it, paid chicken feed for what it is worth, and is spot-on with radio alignments. Spot-on . . .

Sounds good. I found another one on there and made an offer.
Lot better feedback on this seller.

Thanks
CB.

 

[loosecannon]

my advice is to NOT buy a used freq counter on ebay unless the seller is a reputable test equipment seller who calibrates the equipment that they sell.

the whole point of a freq counter is to set things correctly and old counters are notoriously off freq.

your best bet im my opinion for when you are just starting out is to get one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTOR-VC31...921094?hash=item4aff301506:g:52UAAOSwRjNXN7gW

i have owned one before and they are accurate because they are new.
it is not the panacea of CB test gear by a long shot, but it is cheap, will get you going, and will at least provide you a way to accurately align your radios on frequency.

as for the scope, i know you will want to learn on the one you bought, but soon you will want to upgrade to a scope that has been calibrated so that you can trust what you see.

on ebay you can choose an option that will only show you items that are marked as'seller refurbished' in the auction.

these scopes will have been calibrated by the seller, they usually have a warranty with them, and they come with new probes.
i see them all the time for about 200-250 for a tektronics or a hitachi 40 mhz scope.

aside from a counter and a scope, you will need an RF signal generator. you will find these all over ebay, but you need to get one that has a calibrated output level.
this will bump the price up over 200 dollars. again, look for something that has been refurbished by the seller.

you will want a digital multimeter that will read AC millivolts. this distinction will bump the price up over 50 dollars or so for a new one. get a decent brand. extech is very good IMO.

you will also need an analog multimeter. watching a needle move is much easier that watching digits bounce around when tuning things for max.
you will want one with a high impedance input which means either a vacuum tube volt meter or a FET voltmeter.
both will probably be of the vintage variety so try to find one that the seller has worked on or at least checked out. If you get a heathkit one, you can usually find the assembly instructions online and rebuild it yourself with new electrolytic capacitors.

get different probes for your test gear.
you will want some BNC to alligtor clips (find one that uses coax cable)
BNC to terminal clips (the small ones)
a BNC to SO-239 adapter.

another handy thing to have is an inductance and capacitance meter.
i recently picked up one of these and put it in a plastic case: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LC100-A-Dig...032413?hash=item4aeb0c4f5d:g:8zkAAOxyOMdS8Ro8

i am very happy with it.

you will want to get some way of generating an accurate 1000hz tone.
you can just use your phone and a youtube video for this, but building a tone generator is a good learning project.
look for a kit, and make sure it has a way to set it to exactly 1000hz. (you will use your new accurate freq counter to set this)

you need a set of plastic alignment tools. look around online to find sets for around 10 dollars or so. my advice is to stay away from the ceramic ones you will hear so much about. if you're not careful they will crack a slug and leave you in the cold.
i would always rather have my tuning tool lose the battle against a stubborn old tuning can. once you have a set, you will get good at making the main one you need out of all the other ones LOL.

you will want a good soldering station that allows you to adjust the temperature.
you should be able to find one for under 100 dollars. don't get a really old one on ebay.

buy an assortment of 1/4 watt resistors on ebay from china. they are like 10 dollars and will give you pretty much all the values you'll need in the future.
do the same with an assortment of ceramic disc caps.

get a couple of small clamps and a small vice for holding small parts while you solder to them.

that should get you started LOL.
LC

 

[Robb]

I'd agree with all of that, except for the counter. I had bought one of these ~$100 cheapie counter before made by some fly-by-night company that vaporizes in a couple of years or less.

A solid built counter is very important. And yes, the Fluke may well need to be calibrated. But this can be done with a Ham operator using 10mhz WWV and zero beat it. Doubt that the cheapie counter can even hold a calibration; I know the Fluke can . . .

 

[loosecannon]

i can't disagree with your statement Robb and i agree that this counter is a cheapie, but for 100 dollars, if it lasts the first two years i feel like it's worth it.

All i can say is that my experience was different. i bought one because i needed to have two counters running at the same time and didn't want to invest too much into the second counter.
mine showed up accurate and lasted for about four-five years before needing an adjustment.
it needed to warm up for about a half hour before it was accurate, but i still use it and it still works just fine for a lot of things.

i guess the point of my post was to help the OP avoid the pitfalls of buying an old used counter on ebay, then aligning all their radios to it only to find out that you are now off frequency on everything.

Crossbow, Robb's advice and experience on this should be heeded. he's been doing this a while and has the personal experience to offer sound advice.
LC

 

[Tallman]

http://worldwidedx.com/gallery/albums/tallman.447/
I bought this one for a song($40.00) off of eBay and I took it to get calibrated. They did not have to adjust it all. If you let them warm up and stabilize they can be pretty good. It is accurate down to .09 ppm. Verified by the calibration lab.