Back in the older days, people used Field Strength Meter function and just stood outside the vehicle with the antenna installed, not permanent, just a simple mag-mount for holding and try out looks, location and how the F/Strength meter responded.
FS meters were popular more then, than today, but it's still possible to get one - they use a little piece of wire, like piano wire - as the antenna and the meter is switched to F/S and the SWR CAL knob sets your needle. Back then Radio Shack had sold SWR meters with Field Strength modes built in for this reason.
You had someone in the vehicle watching you and would key the radio system while you took readings...
You use it (FS antenna) and "SWR CAL" sets the needle to Full scale or a reference mark..
You walked over to the other end or side of the vehicle and do that again
As you take your readings from various "angles" from the antenna as it's mounted - same distance if possible from the antenna - versus hood, or trunk distance is more preferred , you can gain an idea of how much energy is going in one direction or another
This process is one way to determine the actual "radiating" pattern your antenna has.
It can also be used to determine the best location for the antenna to get the most needle deflection - sensed power from it.
RF "ground" is a relative term, but it's a way of interpreting how well the antenna is "coupling" with the vehicles'' (in this case) conductive skin of metal as a radiating element as a means to show how efficiently the system works.
FS meters were popular more then, than today, but it's still possible to get one - they use a little piece of wire, like piano wire - as the antenna and the meter is switched to F/S and the SWR CAL knob sets your needle. Back then Radio Shack had sold SWR meters with Field Strength modes built in for this reason.
You had someone in the vehicle watching you and would key the radio system while you took readings...
You use it (FS antenna) and "SWR CAL" sets the needle to Full scale or a reference mark..
You walked over to the other end or side of the vehicle and do that again
As you take your readings from various "angles" from the antenna as it's mounted - same distance if possible from the antenna - versus hood, or trunk distance is more preferred , you can gain an idea of how much energy is going in one direction or another
This process is one way to determine the actual "radiating" pattern your antenna has.
It can also be used to determine the best location for the antenna to get the most needle deflection - sensed power from it.
RF "ground" is a relative term, but it's a way of interpreting how well the antenna is "coupling" with the vehicles'' (in this case) conductive skin of metal as a radiating element as a means to show how efficiently the system works.