Here's a video on where to find the gears. I've done this a few times. The only thing I had to do was to open up the hole just a little in the one gear so it would slide over the shaft. I bought the timers from eBay for about $8.00 each.
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Junker 858 Madison
- Thread starter TM86
- Start date
Ordered a gear set from him this morning. He claims he's pretty quick with shipping, we'll see.
Looks like the clock gears will be in the mail come Monday.
Decided after cleaning up TR402 and TR403 and putting silpads behind them I might as well get the AM regulator, driver, and final as well. Glad I did.
The final was kind of nasty looking on the solder side, with the cruft from previous solder jobs thick enough that I couldn't see the separation between traces. Cleaned that up and found that chunks of the traces for the emitter and base were missing. The emitter was easy in that the lead was long enough to reach over to where it needed to go to make a connection. The base, not so much. There was a component lead poking through the board with no copper around it. Grabbed a little copper donut and used the final's base lead to hold it down and connect it to the rest of the trace like it used to be.
Finished removing the glue, I hope. Squeezed a few coils back together. Replaced the meter lights and unlike the last guy in here I insulated the connections, so the radio is less of a fire hazard than it used to be.
Opened the SWR/MOD meter to see how stuck it was. Movement seemed to turn pretty freely. Checked it with an ohmmeter, open circuit. Probably not a good thing. Guess I'll head over to Barkett's and order one.
Decided after cleaning up TR402 and TR403 and putting silpads behind them I might as well get the AM regulator, driver, and final as well. Glad I did.
The final was kind of nasty looking on the solder side, with the cruft from previous solder jobs thick enough that I couldn't see the separation between traces. Cleaned that up and found that chunks of the traces for the emitter and base were missing. The emitter was easy in that the lead was long enough to reach over to where it needed to go to make a connection. The base, not so much. There was a component lead poking through the board with no copper around it. Grabbed a little copper donut and used the final's base lead to hold it down and connect it to the rest of the trace like it used to be.
Finished removing the glue, I hope. Squeezed a few coils back together. Replaced the meter lights and unlike the last guy in here I insulated the connections, so the radio is less of a fire hazard than it used to be.
Opened the SWR/MOD meter to see how stuck it was. Movement seemed to turn pretty freely. Checked it with an ohmmeter, open circuit. Probably not a good thing. Guess I'll head over to Barkett's and order one.
Ah, donuts. Is there nothing they can't do?
One of these little guys: https://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/copper-foil-donuts.html
I think I figured out the clarifier. It looks like whoever did the clarifier mod originally had soldered a wire to the cathode of D44, a 9 Volt zener diode. That's the wire I found one end floating in the chassis. I pulled that wire under the board and soldered it to the positive side of C135, which is also connected to D44. Funny thing is, if the original guy had done this he would have found that the wire he used was the perfect length to pull through the retaining clips around the edge of the board and reach where it's now soldered. 
Did 399's power relay mod, since I was in there. Thanks, JJ!
On a parts hold for at least a few days. Got bits coming for the clock, the dead meter, the two inductors that are missing, and the big cap in the power supply.
Oh, and a new soldering iron. Mine literally fell apart. Metal bits just slid right off the ceramic element and onto the workbench. It's somewhat inconvenient when that happens. Eh, what did expect for 10 bucks?
Did 399's power relay mod, since I was in there. Thanks, JJ!
On a parts hold for at least a few days. Got bits coming for the clock, the dead meter, the two inductors that are missing, and the big cap in the power supply.
Oh, and a new soldering iron. Mine literally fell apart. Metal bits just slid right off the ceramic element and onto the workbench. It's somewhat inconvenient when that happens. Eh, what did expect for 10 bucks?
i've been using one of these at work for almost a year now and it seems to be holding up ok. definitely not for all day every day soldering, but for the price it does its job quite well.
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@ flying turtle herder:Hello out there. F15 crustyrudder here with a tech question: im working on a BK1040 svcmstr. im trying to find the value of R98. ive downloaded scrams and not even found the R98. if someone could help me with this issue id appreciate it.
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