Hi, got a new to me Eagle VIII that is leaving me with much to be desired as it is only putting out a pep of 600w max I am pretty sure it ought to be doing quit a bit more than that as I have some that have less 20LF6 tubes that blow this one away ! So somthing is wrong with this one, looks pretty much stock and is in very good shape but.... I have tested all the tubes and they are great ! I recapped the HV caps and replaced a diode that was questionable so far. I have read the entire thread on here referring to some of these. It sounds like LooseCannon also has or had one of these at one point. I will be installing the 50 watt 30 ohm resistor on the heater line on the finals in due time, but first would be nice to get it's power issue resolved! Does anyone happen to have the manual or process for the conversion process of switching these from a transmitter to a amplifier????? I'm really wondering if all this was done properly and fully as I notice on the load adjustment there is still the 120pf 1000v disc cap that someone had mentioned was for the " 15 meter" transmitter. I will need some help and suggestions on this one along the way thanks !
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Kenrich Eagle VIII
- Thread starter Danzik
- Start date
How exactly does the "drive" adjustment on the front of this box supposed to be adjusted ? Because with 1/2 watt deadkey going in I can adjust the linear with that drive knob to the point the amplifier deadkeys at 500 watts, none of my other boxes do this with the drive adjustment so am I just supposed to set that for a 200 watt deadkey or is something wrong with that ?
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I had one in 1996 that barely did 500 watts with good tubes and new caps. I quickly unloaded it. It was a dog.
Gotta be a way to wake it up though, just not sure what that way is ! With 7 20LF6 the box ought to scream !
If you use 20LF6 for the two driver tubes it will scream, kinda like an unlimited fuel dragster. The 20-Volt heater will have 28 Volts or more on it. Kinda like a nitrous bottle with no off switch. The unlimiteds only race one thousand feet for a reason. The motor won't stay in one piece the whole 1320 feet.
A tube type with a higher heater-voltage rating tends to last a lot longer. My recommendation is type 30KD6, but it's not the only viable choice. The 27LF6 is what it's designed to use, but they're tough to track down.
73
A tube type with a higher heater-voltage rating tends to last a lot longer. My recommendation is type 30KD6, but it's not the only viable choice. The 27LF6 is what it's designed to use, but they're tough to track down.
73
Hi Nomad, yeah I already have the 50 watt resistors for the final string of tubes but haven't installed it yet. I put 26lx6 tubes in the driver sockets for now and they seem to have the same power as the 20LF6 did, I have recapped most of the amplifier already but still had low power output ! I moved the disk cap on the driver coil up a coil to about 4 turns and that seemed to help as now I am in the 900 w pep range but still somthing doesn't seem quite right, I wonder if there are mods that were supposed to be done to this unit to convert from a transmitter like the 525 had that green wire that had to be cut to work properly on 11 meter ????? But I am making leeway anyways, thank you
900 PEP isnt awake? I don't even drive my 3-500Z that hard! (Not a criticism just a legit question lol)
Yeah, alot more than it was when I first made that comment it was only wanting to do 600 tops
I did find that there last night when I moved the lead of the cap on the coil and that may have very well been shorting it out ! When you zoomed in and showed my photo I thought there may have been more or sagged solder there but no it was that copper wire and I am thinking that was probably most of the issue. Good eye Cable guy and thank you very much
