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Kenrich Eagle VIII

I think all the tubes should have a parasitic setup on them, but i believe that mine looks exactly like your pic shows, with one tube not having one.

As for expected power output, when i bought mine on ebay 20 or so years ago, i used it without even opening the lids, and i believe i was getting about 850-900 watts PEP using a 2000GTL to drive it.

sounds like yours is doing what it's supposed to.

you should check out cbtrticks in the secret CB section and look at volume 4, as another forum member posted, because the mod for the coil is in there.

oh, and thanks for all the pics!!!

If it's not too much trouble, can you get a pic of the part number on that smaller relay?
mine is fubar and the cover is missing.
LC
 
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I wouldn't be disappointed with 900W PEP. That's 120-plus per tube overall. Not gonna see a lot more than that. I would be more concerned about each Plate Tune control. If both of them are peaking well between the max and min extremes, you're usually good to go. And a Tune cap that is all the way at one end, max or min means you really aren't resonant yet. Adjusting the coil would be the solution for that.

73
 
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loosecannon said:
I think all the tubes should have a parasitic setup on them, but i believe that mine looks exactly like your pic shows, with one tube not having one.

As for expected power output, when i bought mine on ebay 20 or so years ago, i used it without even opening the lids, and i believe i was getting about 850-900 watts PEP using a 2000GTL to drive it.

sounds like yours is doing what it's supposed to.

you should check out cbtrticks in the secret CB section and look at volume 4, as another forum member posted, because the mod for the coil is in there.

oh, and thanks for all the pics!!!

If it's not too much trouble, can you get a pic of the part number on that smaller relay?
mine is fubar and the cover is missing.
LC
Click to expand...
20241107_144628.jpg
That one ?
 
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nomadradio said:
I wouldn't be disappointed with 900W PEP. That's 120-plus per tube overall. Not gonna see a lot more than that. I would be more concerned about each Plate Tune control. If both of them are peaking well between the max and min extremes, you're usually good to go. And a Tune cap that is all the way at one end, max or min means you really aren't resonant yet. Adjusting the coil would be the solution for that.

73
Click to expand...
It is a absolute screemin demon now Nomad, running just the way it should I believe, very impressive!
 
loosecannon said:
I think all the tubes should have a parasitic setup on them, but i believe that mine looks exactly like your pic shows, with one tube not having one.

As for expected power output, when i bought mine on ebay 20 or so years ago, i used it without even opening the lids, and i believe i was getting about 850-900 watts PEP using a 2000GTL to drive it.

sounds like yours is doing what it's supposed to.

you should check out cbtrticks in the secret CB section and look at volume 4, as another forum member posted, because the mod for the coil is in there.

oh, and thanks for all the pics!!!

If it's not too much trouble, can you get a pic of the part number on that smaller relay?
mine is fubar and the cover is missing.
LC
Click to expand...
Loosecannon, I don't see any reason why ya couldn't probably install a socket and use a standard Omron MY4 like I did in my other box
 

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Looks like a receiver preamp relay. You'd expect the type number and manufacturer logo to be printed on the top.

Here's how we fix a preamp relay problem. The preamp is mostly a waste of time, so replacing the relay just doesn't seem justified to me.

OROgrT.jpg


This method is appealing for a mobile linear where removing the pc board to reach the solder side would require a lot of labor.

The relay's lever element is completely removed and the tiny jumper wires take its place.

Does fix problems with receiving, and with transmitting through the amplifier when it's turned off or on standby.

73
 
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It's a Fujitsu brand type FBR221ND012.

Not sure what the "-20" indicates, but Fujitsu routinely left off the prefix letters "FBR" from the type number.

Looked online for a spec sheet, but it's been too long since it was discontinued, looks like. Oddly enough the single-pole version of this family of relays is listed, but not this one.

Pretty sure the pinout is the same as Omron type G5V-2-H1-DC12.

Mouser has them.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G5V-2-H1-DC12?qs=SXIVkn%2Bm38kUovfCr9o1Dw==

73
 
wow!

thank you Danzik and Nomad for all that info!
it is very appreciated.

Now i just have to figure out what tube/tubes i want to run.

i do have a 6 volt 20 amp transformer lying around somewhere...
LC
 
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Amperex said:
600 watts is average for softer tubes. new tubes should make750 watts peak out.
Click to expand...
Hi, tubes all max the meter out on a B&K 747b tube tester the box is now putting out well over 900 pep avg. On a MFJ giant lots more on peak but that's running it kinda hard with 25 watts pep going in. So she is doing exactly what she is supposed to do. The issue was that tiny piece of wire shorting it out that Cable Guy spotted on here, that was cutting the power out by 50%.
 
One thing that seems kinda different from all my other boxes though is the "Drive" adjustment on the front, all I know is I can't adjust it for max deadkey output or max smoke like I do all the other tube linears I have, with a 1/4 watt deadkey or less going in I can adjust that drive where it is putting out the max power of the box like close to 1000 watts, is it supposed to do this or is my bias to low ? It has -21 VDC of bias on the drivers
 

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