KENWOOD TS-440S
i searched the net and all i could find was a explanation on how to fix it with no pics or anything.
I just repaired my key bounce problem with great success and id like to share my experiance.
here goes my first tut:
step one:
unhook anything connected to the unit(mic,power ect)
step two:
remove the tuner knob with a small allen wrench,pull all the other knobs noting where they came from.
step three:
remove the 4 black screws from each side and the 2 silver screws from under the tuning knob.
step four:
remove the faceplate and set aside
step five:
remove the 4 silver screws holding the keypad to the front of the unit and unplug the 3 connectors being careful not to break the wires(one of mine broke and i had to repair it)
step six:
remove the small gold screws from the back of the keypad being careful not to invert it and lose where all the buttons go.
step seven:
pull the circiut board away from the housing and lay it face up on your work surface,there are 2 layers of mylar on the board one on the board has cutouts for the clickers(small metal contacts) and the other goes on top of everything else
note: mine has already been repaired once but the glue they used broke down and fouled up the contacts resulting in the bouncing problem.
now for the tricky part,claening it up and reassembly:
peel the top layer of mylar off being careful not to lose the clickers(they have the ability to travel between dimentions when not in your direct line of site)
put the clickers in a safe place for cleaning later.
i had to clean all the glue from the mylar due to it being in a semi liquid state.
the white stuff is the glue
other tuts say use alcohol but it wouldnt touch the glue so i took a chance and used non chlorinated brake cleaner(had it on hand) acitone would have worked too.the brake cleaner didnt hurt the mylar but did a number on the glue plus it cleaned the contacts on the board real good too.i used a bunch of qtips and sprayed the brake cleaner in a cap so i could dip the qtip in it.
nice and clean
now is time to clean the clickers.i layed out a shop rag on a hard surface,layed them down one at a time with the contact side up,held them down with a straight pick and wiped them down good with a saturated qtip(remember to be carefup because they also will defy gravity and fly to the other dimention mentioned previously)
once thats done you can place the clickers back in the cutouts on the board(it makes lining them up a snap)
i used 3m spray adhesive and put a light coat on the back side of the top layer of mylar to stick them back in place and they are holding fine.you shouldnt use silicone based adhesive because it will break down and you will be back where you started.
reassembled cleaned and ready to put back in
heres some shots of the keys in case you make a boo boo and they fall out of the housing
also other tuts said to remove top cover,bottom cover and the mic connector nut.it was unnessesary
i searched the net and all i could find was a explanation on how to fix it with no pics or anything.
I just repaired my key bounce problem with great success and id like to share my experiance.
here goes my first tut:
step one:
unhook anything connected to the unit(mic,power ect)
step two:
remove the tuner knob with a small allen wrench,pull all the other knobs noting where they came from.
step three:
remove the 4 black screws from each side and the 2 silver screws from under the tuning knob.
step four:
remove the faceplate and set aside
step five:
remove the 4 silver screws holding the keypad to the front of the unit and unplug the 3 connectors being careful not to break the wires(one of mine broke and i had to repair it)
step six:
remove the small gold screws from the back of the keypad being careful not to invert it and lose where all the buttons go.
step seven:
pull the circiut board away from the housing and lay it face up on your work surface,there are 2 layers of mylar on the board one on the board has cutouts for the clickers(small metal contacts) and the other goes on top of everything else
note: mine has already been repaired once but the glue they used broke down and fouled up the contacts resulting in the bouncing problem.
now for the tricky part,claening it up and reassembly:
peel the top layer of mylar off being careful not to lose the clickers(they have the ability to travel between dimentions when not in your direct line of site)
put the clickers in a safe place for cleaning later.
i had to clean all the glue from the mylar due to it being in a semi liquid state.
the white stuff is the glue
other tuts say use alcohol but it wouldnt touch the glue so i took a chance and used non chlorinated brake cleaner(had it on hand) acitone would have worked too.the brake cleaner didnt hurt the mylar but did a number on the glue plus it cleaned the contacts on the board real good too.i used a bunch of qtips and sprayed the brake cleaner in a cap so i could dip the qtip in it.
nice and clean
now is time to clean the clickers.i layed out a shop rag on a hard surface,layed them down one at a time with the contact side up,held them down with a straight pick and wiped them down good with a saturated qtip(remember to be carefup because they also will defy gravity and fly to the other dimention mentioned previously)
once thats done you can place the clickers back in the cutouts on the board(it makes lining them up a snap)
i used 3m spray adhesive and put a light coat on the back side of the top layer of mylar to stick them back in place and they are holding fine.you shouldnt use silicone based adhesive because it will break down and you will be back where you started.
reassembled cleaned and ready to put back in
heres some shots of the keys in case you make a boo boo and they fall out of the housing
also other tuts said to remove top cover,bottom cover and the mic connector nut.it was unnessesary
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