datsun66 said:Touch the grid caps and keydown to get a real buzz :naughty
I think you mean plate capzzzzzzzzzt!
datsun66 said:Touch the grid caps and keydown to get a real buzz :naughty
So what do you mean by “the PLL wants to unlock” ? On the two lowest bands so will 27.385 be ok? Or at any risk?That wire really does move the radio's PLL up 2 MHz when it's high. Breaking the connection at this wire moves the PLL down from 28 MHz to 26 MHz, and does it on all four 10-meter band segments.
Just doesn't inform the display, which still shows you the 10-meter frequency it was built for. Changing the display to read 26 and 27 is not for the faint of heart, as I remember it. Oughta go back and look that one up. Good chance it hasn't been looked at for 20 years.
But the math to subtract two from 29 and get 27 is no big burden.
And yeah, it really does move all four of the 28 and 29 bands down by 2 MHz. At the lowest 2 bands you might find that the PLL wants to unlock. If those are important to you, some alignment will help. Making the adjustment that fixes this might cause that same problem to appear at the highest 29 MHz bands. Don't remember how many "10-meter" bands total this radio will cover, but seems to me it wasn't always all 8 of them.
Just be nice to it. Age is catching up to that model now, so be on the lookout for electrolytic caps that don't look quite right.
73
How about at what point to cut the wire in the middle or right near the PLL??
Ok very good, i will cut near the middle but not Moo fat so I can find it, I’m guessing this mod has been done many times before right?W7ZAR,
In performing any mod that requires cutting a wire, I find it much easier to cut in the middle of the wire run or at least far enough from any connectors that you can "splice" the wire back together if the need arises. Cutting the wire at the plastic connector almost guarantees that you will never reattach that wire to its original location without some major headaches.
Just my own opinion!
73's
David