Lets logically end the LMR-400 debate.

[Eldorado828]

I always run poor man's 400 (rg-213) and it's worked with no problems. Just got a fresh strand from JEFA a couple of weeks back and it should work just fine for me.

I'll add even more to the story. This will get stones thrown at me......

Are you ready!

I use silver/teflon crimp and solder connectors.....

There you go, I said it!

And they've worked fine for years.

 

[fourstringburn]

I use silver/teflon crimp and solder connectors.....

Best way to do pl259's yet!

Providing you use proper crimp tool and die, No guessing if you made a good braid/ground connection.

However, it works best with RG8 size cable because RGX size being small doesn't have the same bite and can work loose.

I now use silver teflon crimp/solder N connectors and haven't had a connection failure yet.

 

[c316buckeye]

LMR 240/400 for diesel wagon/base, several coats of liquid electric tape over the crimped connectors, never an issue. never more than 50w or 30ft length. buy once, cry once. the mobile applications see over 3,000hrs ( combined ) per year of 70+mph, sun, salt water on rust belt roads, etc. at least that's been my experience. that liquid electric tape is good stuff as a preventive measure. like the gov't says, safe and effective

 

[Dr_DX]

I use Kester 24-7150-00XX (62/36/2) solder for coax connectors. A 3.3% type 44 flux for instant wetting and works well on Silver, Gold, or Nickel plating and CCA center conductors. 2% Silver content for superior conductivity. 361~374F melting range.

For PTFE Dielectric coax, I use solder type PTFE dielectric, Silver/Gold plated, solder center pin connectors - PL-259 (RG-393) or ones that have the reducer built in (RG-401/U, RG-400, RG-142B).

For Foam Dielectric, I use clamp style PTFE dielectric, Silver/Gold plated, solder center pin connectors - PL-259 (RG-8X, LMR-240, LMR-400) and 7/16DIN (hardline). I don't care how good you think you are, you will melt the foam when soldering the shield. And if you aren't quick, you will melt the foam when soldering the center pin.

Haven't tried crimp style.

I don't use any Nylon Dielectric coax.

I have used 9913 & 9086 air core; not any more. The center conductor can migrate inside the shield, especially in a bend, and you lose your 50ohm impedance.

A good watch, especially for the "N" connector folks:

 

[Rwb]

On any reasonable run of cable the dielectric losses of the cable will far outweigh any ohmic losses in the centre conductor. IOW.......don't worry about splitting hairs over whether the centre conductor is solid or stranded unless a rotator is involved and then there is NO question that stranded is better simply from a mechanical aspect and not electrical.

when is there an ambitious inventer going to come up with a weather proof great coax swivel connecter for beams?

 

[Greg T]

when is there an ambitious inventer going to come up with a weather proof great coax swivel connecter for beams?

I would even like to have a clockable 90° swivel for a mic connector as well.

 

[Rogerbird1]

Anyone ever use RG-223/u? double shielded 50 ohm?

 

[Dr. Frankenstein]

I would even like to have a clockable 90° swivel for a mic connector as well.

Seems to me I did that back in the 80's way before I became an Extra.

Now that you're a Ham .......... it should be piece of cake for you.

Proceed at your own risk>>>>>>>>
The only thing that the case has is either a dimple or pin to align the black adapter, and a screw to hold the black adapter in place.

Make sure that you know (before hand) where you want things to be. Study the 90º case halves for the locations of where the pin and screw hole are ............. and where you want them to be ........... alignment must be exact.

The detent pin:
The locating pin needs to be removed from the case, (If it's dimple use a pointed punch) from inside the case to flatten it out.

If you study a regular straight mic plug, the locating pin may have been added by using a centering punch or pointed punch with a hammer that puts a dimple on the plug adapter inside.

To keep from mangling the case half with the detent, you may have to back up the 90º case with a wooden dowel before adding the new locating dimple. (Or just drill another hole with another screw to make sure things are secure, I can say this because I save old mic plug parts.)

The screw hole:
Then drill the proper size hole where the set screw will hold the black plug in the clocked position needed.

Should be easy since the case splits in two, and I'm sure that others have done this to make it work for them too.

73

 

[357]

Hard to believe, I fried Imax with 800W PEP

I run 1500w into mine for hours at a time. been over 2kw no problem

 

[357]

the only issue I can see is if you knick the copper coating and flex it it will break.
I do not like seeing aluminum in there but the sheilding has saved me years of complaints. If I could afford rg214 I would prefer that. Also I have run rg213 with no issues. I think I will got ultra flex next time though. I like copper

 

[dave457]

I run 1500w into mine for hours at a time. been over 2kw no problem

2kw thru a so-239?

 

[357]

2kw thru a so-239?

thats whats on the back of a al1200, even a pa77sx running 2 3cx1500's

 

[Eldorado828]

thats whats on the back of a al1200, even a pa77sx running 2 3cx1500's

View attachment 69916View attachment 69917

Man that's a monster box!

 

[SuperLid]

Anyone ever use RG-223/u? double shielded 50 ohm?

I have used it quite a bit, for interconnects in repeater cabs.

 

[Greg T]

Seems to me I did that back in the 80's way before I became an Extra.

Now that you're a Ham .......... it should be piece of cake for you.

Proceed at your own risk>>>>>>>>
The only thing that the case has is either a dimple or pin to align the black adapter, and a screw to hold the black adapter in place.

Make sure that you know (before hand) where you want things to be. Study the 90º case halves for the locations of where the pin and screw hole are ............. and where you want them to be ........... alignment must be exact.

The detent pin:
The locating pin needs to be removed from the case, (If it's dimple use a pointed punch) from inside the case to flatten it out.

If you study a regular straight mic plug, the locating pin may have been added by using a centering punch or pointed punch with a hammer that puts a dimple on the plug adapter inside.

To keep from mangling the case half with the detent, you may have to back up the 90º case with a wooden dowel before adding the new locating dimple. (Or just drill another hole with another screw to make sure things are secure, I can say this because I save old mic plug parts.)

The screw hole:
Then drill the proper size hole where the set screw will hold the black plug in the clocked position needed.

Should be easy since the case splits in two, and I'm sure that others have done this to make it work for them too.

73

I was thinking more like having a fixed 4 pin connector going into the radio, BUT, it has a flat face with 4 circular contact rings where the second half of the connector case would have spring loaded pins that contact the rings. A center thumb screw would tighten the cases together when the desired position is reached. The four pins on the outer connector case would correspond to whatever radio it is plugged into.