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linear....really?????

The two "stacks" with white looking wire coming out the top (looks "looped") these are transformers. on most amps that are not so compact you will usaully see these laying flat.

I will try to post some photos later today with the transformers circled.

As for a switched dead key mod, it would install like an old school dial-a-watt, between a string of diodes at the D8 location (the audio leaving the modulation transforme, aka the antispiking diode, you can add more diodes here on these style of radios (transformer modulated).

I'll try to get some photos posted explaining the installation.
 
The two "stacks" with white looking wire coming out the top (looks "looped") these are transformers. on most amps that are not so compact you will usaully see these laying flat.

I will try to post some photos later today with the transformers circled.

As for a switched dead key mod, it would install like an old school dial-a-watt, between a string of diodes at the D8 location (the audio leaving the modulation transforme, aka the antispiking diode, you can add more diodes here on these style of radios (transformer modulated).

I'll try to get some photos posted explaining the installation.
Many thanks Leapfrog....i guess my mind is getting a little feeble with age! I have a tendency to think in auto terms, but it pretty much shakes out the same. Auto coil no more than a step up transformer.........12 volts in, however many volts out depending on wire size & number of turns. Bias voltage on a diode is about .6 volts, so running some in series would create a voltage drop to whereever you wanted to be.....am I pretty much in step so far?? Like i say, dont have much of an rf background, and am really learning a lot here using the tools i already have. So heres maybe a stupid question....are the transformers on the collector leg or the emitter. My simple mind sez mike switches relay, relay works base leg, transistor controls power out to antenna, modulated. Yeah, maybe not quite right, but trying to relate. Too much output from radio on base of amp transistor and all the magic smoke gets out. Am really gonna make an effort to get Lou's (?) book and start my rf education, i hate not knowing. My oldest phrase to my auto students for 10 years was "you cant fix it if you dont knoe how it works"
 
Many thanks Leapfrog....i guess my mind is getting a little feeble with age! I have a tendency to think in auto terms, but it pretty much shakes out the same. Auto coil no more than a step up transformer.........12 volts in, however many volts out depending on wire size & number of turns. Bias voltage on a diode is about .6 volts, so running some in series would create a voltage drop to whereever you wanted to be.....am I pretty much in step so far?? Like i say, dont have much of an rf background, and am really learning a lot here using the tools i already have. So heres maybe a stupid question....are the transformers on the collector leg or the emitter. My simple mind sez mike switches relay, relay works base leg, transistor controls power out to antenna, modulated. Yeah, maybe not quite right, but trying to relate. Too much output from radio on base of amp transistor and all the magic smoke gets out. Am really gonna make an effort to get Lou's (?) book and start my rf education, i hate not knowing. My oldest phrase to my auto students for 10 years was "you cant fix it if you dont knoe how it works"
The Cobra 25 and Cobra 29 do not use a relay to switch TX and RX they use a transistor/fet coniguration instead.

Most amplifiers on the other hand that are solid state will use a RF sensing circuit to trigger the relay automatically so you don't need to run any special key up wire between the amplifier or the radio it just senses when a carrier is sent into the amplifier through the coax jumper, the relay automatically switches the signal path using the RF sensing circuit in depending on whether or not an input signal is coming into the amplifier. ( the relay is triggered automatically to switch the signal path )

*An idea would be to switch diodes in to lower the carrier, in a pinch to run an amplifier for an experiment on the dummy load / test bench.*

For every diode that's in the circuit between the transformer and the anti-spiking diode lowers the voltage on by 0.7 volts but when you apply (audio)forward voltage
and the diodes conduct
audio passes (gets added to the carrier) most of the maximum voltage can still "flow through".

There is little to no forward voltage drop with the diodes in line when they are "conducting"
and the affect is you modulate the lowered carrier the voltage jumps up based on the amount of audio put in.

So you will still see most of your high peak numbers (but you lose some p.e.p. wats) some guy use diode mod to run amplifiers and the possible (over)modulation can be "problematic" so you really need an oscilloscope to make sure that you're not creating a spatter box radio in the final coniguration.

(it works though, and can be used on any transformer modulated radio to run an amp in a pinch)

You will need the following:

* Several Diodes ( I use the same type that's present in the radio already (get the same kind), if it's a 1N4001 I use those, sometimes it's 1N4003 )

* Scrap wires long enough (2 or more dependin on the # of switch positions) to reach the switch.

* Solder, plus solder iron

* Patience & tiny bit of skill to wire and solder up the diodes inline and the wires/switch together in the right configuration ( you could read a picture on how to wire the switch ) depending on where you put the wires on the string of diodes and how many are in line on any given switch position is going to affect your carrier so add more diodes in that same switch position line to lower the carrier for that position.

This has been called:
* the diode super mod
* the dial-a-watt mod
* the super modulation mod

Some of these names have been applied to other methods.

To lower the carrier in an a.m. only Cobra radio my preferred method
is a variable dead key with the tip120 transistor and add a potentiometer
(use delta tune spot and just tape that pot off and tucked away inside the radio.)

Re-place the stock knob on the new potentiometer
so you get a knob on the front of the radio that looks original and it lets you set your carrier whenever you need to very easily without taking the lids off.

but like I said you have to check your (modulation) w/ an "RF sampler" on the oscilloscope if you want to make sure it's not a splatter box final tune you can try adjusting the AMC variable resistor, and L10 to clean it up, also you get to see how the microphone gain adjustment can affect your output waveform when you use these methods to lower the carrier.

Best Regards
-LeapFrog
 
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Yup, thanks guys and for the link tallman. Got a lot to learn, but nothing worthwhile comes quick OR easy. Would be nice to rig the 25 to talk good barefoot and still switch to feed the mini linear. More to come.
 
Don't over modify the 25 since it is a fairly good radio as it is. Do not cut out the modulation limiter out. If you over modulate your signal and run a class "C" amp you will have a "Splatter Box" and I'm sure that is not your intent. I would not worry too much about variable power and adjustable dead key, There is a brand called RMItaly that is overly sensitive to input drive power. I know I have fixed a lot of those with blown final transistors and when I called the owner to find out how they were driving the amp and they confirmed my suspicions. The little class "C" you have is not RMItaly. So then your stock power out put should be fine.
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/cobra/25/index.htm
 
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Tall man, I posted a link to the datasheet for the 1446 transistor earlier in this thread.
If it is only a single transistor (likely) and there's no input attenuation, I am not 100% certain that he would not be over-driving the transistor with a 4 watt carrier.
The input rating at the desired frequency range is laid out in the datasheet , could you help me read over the datasheet and interpret the proper input power rating?
I would hate for RedBeast to blow up this hard to find transistor, can someone help confirm the recommended input rating for a single SD1446.

Thanks &
Best Regards.
-LeapFrog
 
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Tall man, I posted a link to the datasheet for the 1446 transistor earlier in this thread.
If it is only a single transistor (likely) and there's no input attenuation, I am not 100% certain that he would not be over-driving the transistor with a 4 watt carrier.
The input rating at the desired frequency range is laid out in the datasheet , could you help me read over the datasheet and interpret the proper input power rating?
I would hate for RedBeast to blow up this hard to find transistor, can someone help confirm the recommended input rating for a single SD1446.

Thanks &
Best Regards.
-LeapFrog


The SD1446 will produce a tad over 100 watts output with 7 watts of drive at 30 MHz. according to the datasheet. Five watts drive makes about 90 watts out.It can take 12-15 watts pep driving it easily. I ran a single SD1446 for years on 11m with such operating drive levels and had nothing but good reports.
 
5w peak output power; about 1 1/3w dead key AM.

A single SD1446 device needs no more than 5w maximum power for full output.
Any more than that creates added distortion to the output.
 
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The SD1446 will produce a tad over 100 watts output with 7 watts of drive at 30 MHz. according to the datasheet. Five watts drive makes about 90 watts out.It can take 12-15 watts pep driving it easily. I ran a single SD1446 for years on 11m with such operating drive levels and had nothing but good reports.
Thank You Captain Kilowatt, Robb, Tallman, & tba02 as well. (Everyone else here also, thanks)
 
Many thanks Leapfrog....i guess my mind is getting a little feeble with age! I have a tendency to think in auto terms, but it pretty much shakes out the same. Auto coil no more than a step up transformer.........12 volts in, however many volts out depending on wire size & number of turns. Bias voltage on a diode is about .6 volts, so running some in series would create a voltage drop to whereever you wanted to be.....am I pretty much in step so far?? Like i say, dont have much of an rf background, and am really learning a lot here using the tools i already have. So heres maybe a stupid question....are the transformers on the collector leg or the emitter. My simple mind sez mike switches relay, relay works base leg, transistor controls power out to antenna, modulated. Yeah, maybe not quite right, but trying to relate. Too much output from radio on base of amp transistor and all the magic smoke gets out. Am really gonna make an effort to get Lou's (?) book and start my rf education, i hate not knowing. My oldest phrase to my auto students for 10 years was "you cant fix it if you dont knoe how it works"
Actually, they are impedance transformers. One matches the impedance going into the pill, and the other transformer matches the impedance output for the pill, Wouldn't want to mess with them, since they are already pretty much set by the manufacturer of that amp. The impedance match allows for radio freq to pass thru the pill so it can attain full output.

Feed the amp 13.8v, just like the radio.
 
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5w peak output power; about 1 1/3w dead key AM.

A single SD1446 device needs no more than 5w maximum power for full output.
Any more than that creates added distortion to the output.

I ran my 2950DX into a single SD1446 with 4-5 watts carrier on AM (rarely on AM) and 12 watts pep on SSB and never had an issue. The radio was NOT set up for that low carrier high swing crap however. I set it up on the bench with a scope first to verify there was no flat topping or pinching off of the carrier before setting it up in the mobile application I was running. I even ran an SP1A speech processor and always got nice reports and never had an issue with distortion or splatter. I wouldn't run a set-up that was distorted or splattered...................Well there were a few times when my DX-60B transmitter made it onto 11m to play havoc with a couple locals that were being A-holes and needed to be shown who was not to be messed with. :whistle: It was as wide as a barn door and loud as hell. :sneaky:
 
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I have a 10m amp that is well built with two 1446's. Ran 10w into it with the Kenwood & a dummy load and it reaches full output @ 12.5v.
Think I will stay with that . . .
 
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