Good to hear. Just out of curiosity, where did you get your 250? I thought I heard they were discontinued.
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Need some amplifier advice.
- Thread starter BammBamm
- Start date
Just order a Texas Star 500V from Copper Electronics.com .....
It will come ready to go.......
The crystal you are referring to is for CW keying use only, not to use with your Uniden 980ssb radio.
Some folks will tell you not to order from Copper, but I have purchased many products from them, including Texas Star amps and all is well.
Your truck will do just fine with this amplifier, and it will be plenty....
Cool.
The gauge of the black wire might be too small. Generally. If U use 1 gauge red. Black
"Return"
is a larger diameter like O gauge.
"
When installing an aftermarket car audio system, having the correct wire connections is very important. The right cables and wires ensure that the strongest signal is going to the correct destination, and that a sufficient amount of power is being sent to the receiving components. One of the most important connections in a car audio system is the power and ground cable that connect the vehicles battery to an aftermarket amplifier. The gauge of these cables will determine how much power can be sent to an amplifier.
As a general recommendation, Sonic Electronix follows the guidelines below as a quick reference in determining the appropriate wire gauge.
Wire Gauge Size Total Amplifier RMS Wattage
0/1 AWG 1000+ Watts
2 AWG 1000-1500 Watts
4 AWG 400-1000 Watts
6 AWG 600-800 Watts
8 AWG 200-400 Watts
10 AWG 100-200 Watts
For a more detailed formula in determining the gauge size needed for an installation, please refer to the steps below. By following these guidelines, you can factor in the distance you are running the cable. This is a more accurate way in finding out what gauge of wire you need and can possibly save you money in the long run of your installation.
1. Find the total RMS power of each amplifier:
* Monoblock Amplifier: The RMS power of the single channel will be the wattage you will reference. For example, if you have 500 watts RMS on one channel that is your final result.
* Multi-Channel Amplifier: Take the RMS power (in watts) of one channel, and multiply it by the total number of channels that amplifier has. For example, a 4-channel amplifier has 40 watts RMS on each channel, so 40 Watts x 4-Channels = 160 Watts RMS.
2. Find the total RMS power of the audio system: Add the total RMS values for each amplifier in the system to reach a grand total. If you only have one amplifier, then the value you found in step one is all you need.
3. Multiply that grand total by 2
4. Divide that number by 13.8
The final number is the approximate current draw of the car audio system. Find that number in the “Amperes” column on the chart below. After determining the distance from the car battery to the amplifier, you will find the appropriate gauge for your car audio system.
Link to web page this information is from.
http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.co...lifiers/what-gauge-wire-do-i-need-for-my-amp/
The gauge of the black wire might be too small. Generally. If U use 1 gauge red. Black
"Return"
is a larger diameter like O gauge.
"
When installing an aftermarket car audio system, having the correct wire connections is very important. The right cables and wires ensure that the strongest signal is going to the correct destination, and that a sufficient amount of power is being sent to the receiving components. One of the most important connections in a car audio system is the power and ground cable that connect the vehicles battery to an aftermarket amplifier. The gauge of these cables will determine how much power can be sent to an amplifier.
As a general recommendation, Sonic Electronix follows the guidelines below as a quick reference in determining the appropriate wire gauge.
Wire Gauge Size Total Amplifier RMS Wattage
0/1 AWG 1000+ Watts
2 AWG 1000-1500 Watts
4 AWG 400-1000 Watts
6 AWG 600-800 Watts
8 AWG 200-400 Watts
10 AWG 100-200 Watts
For a more detailed formula in determining the gauge size needed for an installation, please refer to the steps below. By following these guidelines, you can factor in the distance you are running the cable. This is a more accurate way in finding out what gauge of wire you need and can possibly save you money in the long run of your installation.
1. Find the total RMS power of each amplifier:
* Monoblock Amplifier: The RMS power of the single channel will be the wattage you will reference. For example, if you have 500 watts RMS on one channel that is your final result.
* Multi-Channel Amplifier: Take the RMS power (in watts) of one channel, and multiply it by the total number of channels that amplifier has. For example, a 4-channel amplifier has 40 watts RMS on each channel, so 40 Watts x 4-Channels = 160 Watts RMS.
2. Find the total RMS power of the audio system: Add the total RMS values for each amplifier in the system to reach a grand total. If you only have one amplifier, then the value you found in step one is all you need.
3. Multiply that grand total by 2
4. Divide that number by 13.8
The final number is the approximate current draw of the car audio system. Find that number in the “Amperes” column on the chart below. After determining the distance from the car battery to the amplifier, you will find the appropriate gauge for your car audio system.
Link to web page this information is from.
http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.co...lifiers/what-gauge-wire-do-i-need-for-my-amp/
I bought the amp from a local here that I was referred to by a local I talked to on the radio (shotgun willie on channel 11) it is used but looks new and was used as a base and he helped me set it all up. I paid $150 for the amp and after he did so much to help me set it up I felt guilty so I told him I have never met a licensed ham so willing to help a cb operator and regifted a $25 Dunkin donuts gift card to him also.
I live about three miles from Copper Electronics and I buy from them all of the time. I go in tell them what I want they put it on the counter. I put my money on the counter, Done Deal. They are ten times better than the other store that belongs to another family member.
I have the same amp. You'll be happy with it. I've talked all over the country with my 250 and 108" whip mobile. I used it with my base setup and talked further with a horizontal dipole. Don't try to squeeze every watt from it and it should last a long time. If you're going to use it on am, make sure to lower your dead key. I had mine set to 1.5 watts when I talked on AM. Anymore my AM talking has been local and barefoot is plenty to talk across town.
What a great deal, sounds like your all set. What you might consider some time in the next 6 months is getting a replacement set of 2290 finals just in case. They are getting hard to find and the price will only skyrocket. You can find them at the below link.
https://www.rfparts.com/2sc2290mp.html
HG 2SC2290
Hmmm. Never forgiven RF parts for buying up all the stocks of M-2057.
Then skyrocketing the price to the stratosphere. They did this with 8950 also.
I buy NADA from them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HG-HuaGao-...349719&hash=item25c146ba43:g:yPAAAOSwZVlXoK7Z
Hmmm. Never forgiven RF parts for buying up all the stocks of M-2057.
Then skyrocketing the price to the stratosphere. They did this with 8950 also.
I buy NADA from them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HG-HuaGao-...349719&hash=item25c146ba43:g:yPAAAOSwZVlXoK7Z
I understand your disgust but I would never replace Toshiba's with those if I had a choice. They aren't direct replacements either.
Alternatively.
Keep an eye on FleecBay. They turn up much cheaper than RF greed. Unfortunately.
RF greed might be bidding against U on fleabay.
. In fact. I have stored in the garage a small
number of Tosh 10x 2290 pluss tosh 8x 2279. Lost track years ago which box they R in.
This summer. Intend to go through everything. Label consolodate. & put a heap of
stuff on fleecebay.
When HG began manufacturing replacement RF transistors. Bought some directly
from them. For the money. Excellent replacements. Perhaps. Over volting . Lets say
24vdc. Over Driving. Possibly they do not match the Tosh. At printed spec. They work
fine. The issue is HEAT DISSIPATION. EG. To cool the 250. Practically speaking
a Thunderbolt 301 or a Firebird 500 1-lq6 x 3-LQ6 are equivalent in DB gain with the
same input signal. They the LQ6 boxes are bigger than necessary. But no fans
originally. They R AIR COOLING of the tubes designed boxes. Like your 250.
You can rag chew all day long with these antiques. On low. Drop the music maul
on fellow mud ducks that disrespect you.
For the 250. To be able to do the above. The cooling system would approximately
be the size of a house or apartment washing machine. Technology is at a very fast pace.
Pure Sine wave inverters are dropping in price rapidly. German Mosfets. Quality
Japaneses small toroid transformers. A 1500 watt inverter is the size of a shoe box.
Couple that with the best in class ever made Palomar Skipper 300 in a car. Who
needs Texas Star 400 or 500 ?
Lastly. Anyone who keeps an SWR meter in line in an auto truck installation . Or uses
a radio with one built in. knows. SWR is all over the place. Depending on whats near
your vehicle. Tubes R very tollerant. Not over size BJT transistors. Less tolerant with
over size Mosfets.
73s
73s Best
Keep an eye on FleecBay. They turn up much cheaper than RF greed. Unfortunately.
RF greed might be bidding against U on fleabay.
. In fact. I have stored in the garage a small
number of Tosh 10x 2290 pluss tosh 8x 2279. Lost track years ago which box they R in.
This summer. Intend to go through everything. Label consolodate. & put a heap of
stuff on fleecebay.
When HG began manufacturing replacement RF transistors. Bought some directly
from them. For the money. Excellent replacements. Perhaps. Over volting . Lets say
24vdc. Over Driving. Possibly they do not match the Tosh. At printed spec. They work
fine. The issue is HEAT DISSIPATION. EG. To cool the 250. Practically speaking
a Thunderbolt 301 or a Firebird 500 1-lq6 x 3-LQ6 are equivalent in DB gain with the
same input signal. They the LQ6 boxes are bigger than necessary. But no fans
originally. They R AIR COOLING of the tubes designed boxes. Like your 250.
You can rag chew all day long with these antiques. On low. Drop the music maul
on fellow mud ducks that disrespect you.
For the 250. To be able to do the above. The cooling system would approximately
be the size of a house or apartment washing machine. Technology is at a very fast pace.
Pure Sine wave inverters are dropping in price rapidly. German Mosfets. Quality
Japaneses small toroid transformers. A 1500 watt inverter is the size of a shoe box.
Couple that with the best in class ever made Palomar Skipper 300 in a car. Who
needs Texas Star 400 or 500 ?
Lastly. Anyone who keeps an SWR meter in line in an auto truck installation . Or uses
a radio with one built in. knows. SWR is all over the place. Depending on whats near
your vehicle. Tubes R very tollerant. Not over size BJT transistors. Less tolerant with
over size Mosfets.
73s
73s Best
As with everything, it's all opinion and price. For me, if possible, I want to keep things stock. I would like to improve the bias in the ts250 but my knowledge prevents me from doing it myself (for now). There are no real techs I'm aware of (nearby) that can do the work.
90% of the reading I have done on the replacement transistors has warned me away. I do not overdrive and refuse to over volt so they may be fine for me but If I spend that kind of money, I'd rather save for better equipment when I get my ticket. You obviously have more knowledge in rf equipment than I do and I don't yet have the disdain for rfparts that you do. I do believe you would agree with me when I say that the old Toshibas are better quality than the offered replacements.
My understanding is HG finals are no better then the DEI finals. Hey it sucks that the prices of Toshiba finals is up there but it's all supply and demand. Same thing holds true for older tubes, it is what it is. I have my stash of Texas Star amplifiers and parts, hope to keep them going for 15 years or longer. Who knows who I will even be talking to then, not many young people are getting into radio these days.
I've read a little about over volting and I'm wondering. ...when I do radio diagnostics with my 980 it reads (ok 15.13 - 15.22 volts) this seems high to me but it has been like this since install of just radio with no amp. With truck warm and ran over 30 minutes I checked at idle in park and it's never under 14.83 volts?
How are you measuring this voltage? You can't be sure unless you are using a calibrated volt meter. 14.8 sounds a frog hair high.