-
You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
New Tower Install.
- Thread starter Grogan
- Start date
Three ground rods and three 00 cables should be able to handle some ~200Kamps of lightning discharge. IIRC, doesn't Capt K use 1" copper tubing to connect his ground rods to each leg of the tower? If so; then that could prove to be less costly.
Last edited:
What I did was connect the tower legs together at the base with 1/2 inch copper pipe flattened on each end to allow it to be bolted to the legs as seen below.
each leg is grounded to it's own ground rod with 000 gauge wire simply because it was on hand at the time. I made lugs for the tower end out of 1/2 inch copper pipe as seen below. Do NOT use soft solder for this. A strike will turn it to vapor. I used what is called Silfoss, an alloy of copper/bronze/silver that reuqires a MUCH higher temperature. A propane torch is barely enough and MAPP gas is preferred.
I also used a piece of stainless steel between the copper and the galvanized tower. Zinc and copper do not like to be in contact with each other and will corrode. The stainless is safe for both and acts as a buffer between the two.
Nice work Captain ! I do industrial refrigeration work so I have all the required stuff to make it work....Thanks... been painting all the tower sections during the week. And picked up the bolts for the tower also. Bought grade 8 like 30.00$ in bolts oh well.
A couple of things I picked up from the old timers around my neck of the woods. When it comes to painting tower I did this easy painting technique. I picked up a gallon of chain link fence paint from lowes. A cheap auto wash mitt and most importantly a heavy duty pair of rubber gloves...the kind that go up to your elbows. Laid a section of tower across a couple saw horses. Gloved up..then wash mitt. Dipped my hand in the gallon and went to town. WAY faster than trying to use a brush or spraying it. REMEMBER to where a rubber glove unless you want a silver hand..lol. I painted my 5 sections of rohn 45 in about a hour. Other tip..Ground rod. DO NOT drive it in with a sledge...unless you insist. I put mine in the ground in 3-5 min with my hands and a bucket of water. Depending on your ground type, it should hopefully work...it sure worked for me. Here's an example of this super fast an easy way
Last edited:
I surprised that you could get Sil-Fos to flow with a MAPP gas torch. was it a regular torch or a "turbo" torch?
I use 60/40 and it doesn't flow until at least 1425 degrees. I use a brazing torch or a small rosebud.
Oh yeah.....it was a "turbo torch" I guess you would call it. The brand was Bernz-O-Matic Spitfire head IIRC. Supposedly good for 3200°F when used with MAPP gas but I don't think it gets that hot. It does turn a super bright orange on the end however. Forgot to mention that.
I believe it is Sil-Fos 15 that I use. It melts between 1300°F - 1500°F.
Got some more work done over the holiday weekend. Hazer almost complete. Mounting the bearing plate. Bearing, rotor plate and rotor. Fabricated the supports for both. Cable and hardware are here also the winch and new antenna. Won't be to long now. No hurry no worries. Need to get a couple runs of new coax and som pvc to bury.
Using a water hose to install grounds rods only works in light soil and is not a good idea in any event. It washed too much soil away from being in contact with the rod and even after it washes back in and fills the hole it is not in good contact (compressed) with the rod. I will hammer them in before I use a water hose.
Looks good...top bearing looks pretty nice...however what do you plan to turn with that rotor?
My Hazer will have a Tailtwister II mounted on it, for turning a full size 20m 3 element and a 6 element 6m beam.
Also suggest you look at the roller kits available to keep the tower bolts from catching the Hazer as it travels...these will help keep the Hazer square on the tower and the assembly from getting stuck on any hardware MHO.
All the Best
Gary
Yes. And I used the water method and it works, you have to keep the rod liberated with the water so it does not get stuck. I hammered it in the last foot to see how hard it would be. Had to use a sledge hammer and was more work than the first 7 ft.
I have a Maco 4 element and a 2 meter 440 beam going on the top. Wanted to get it done .This rotor worked before at another location for years, and if it don't last I will change it out. Have lots of material for different mounting plates..