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Palomar 300A questions

This is the entire relay board @nomadradio is showing in his photo above.

Removal of the middle relay and adding the jumper should take care of your receive/pre amp problem.
Thanks that looks simple enough for this Old mechanical maintenance man to understand. LOL I do have soldering ability, maybe not as good as some but I usually Git Er Done. LOL One last question ! After that Will the PreAmp be constantly kicked in ? I lied 1 more question ? The amp is working But what should the Dead Key on the radio be set at to drive that Palomar 300A amp?
 
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With the jumper in place, the pre amp will be bypassed- or Off- or non-functioning (and that is a good thing!).

See the attached "Operating Instructions" for dead key etc.

73
David
 

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With the jumper in place, the pre amp will be bypassed- or Off- or non-functioning (and that is a good thing!).

See the attached "Operating Instructions" for dead key etc.

73
David
I probably shoulda mentioned that we sell a drop-in replacement for the R50 relay. It's a circuit board adapter that takes a more-modern "DIP" style relay.

A fleabay search for "R50" will get you there.

Looks like this:

tj9658.jpg



73
 
A fleabay search for "R50" will get you there.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep that in mind because I want to keep the PreAmp working because of this deep narrow valley isn't the best for receive unless DX is hammering in like it has been. I suppose it probably takes some circuit board work that I would farm out ! Is this the item? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1148343537...d=link&campid=5336136228&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 I don't do ebay because paypal insist I put my SS# on my computer and they can Kiss My Backside !
 
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Selling through Ebay makes my life easier, but it's not the only game in town.
OK I will look into snail mail. I use to buy some nice stuff from ebay but then paypal changed their game and insisted I put my SS# on my computer and they wouldn't take the # over the phone, so we parted way because your computer remembers too much and hackers can find it. It's scary what evil minds can do. I don't trust my Anti Virus to be Top Notch even though I pay for it and it's not the Freebee stuff. Worked my Old butt off today so I'll ventured down the road tomorrow. Thanks !
 
And a direct sale can be arranged with a USPS money order sent by snail mail if you prefer.
I sent you out your Money Order for the part yesterday and a email to info@nomadradio.com and was wondering if it came thru (email) OK ? My email didn't kick it back so I guess I did it right. You always wonder about this electronic world ! LOL
 
The face color doesn't always tell us which relays will be found inside.

The plug-in relay has become generic, produced by a dozen vendors.

The Potter and Brumfield part number is "R10-E2-W2-V185". This is the version with 7.5 Amp rated contacts.

Depending on what year it was made, might say "R10-E2-W2-12vdc".

The "R10-E2-X2" version is rated at 5 Amps, and works, so long as the coil is rated for 12 Volts DC.

The lowest current rating is R10-E2-Y2-V185", at 2 Amps. I don't recommend that one, just won't last all that long.

The Potter and Brumfield brand came up with the above part numbers. They got bought by Tyco corporation, now their brand name on a relay might be "Tyco" or "TE Connectivity".

A handful of companies have made exact equivalents. They will merge, get bought and put different names on their products over the years. Makes identifying exact substitutes a research project.

The NTE brand uses a cross-reference volume to look up original type numbers. NTE buys them in bulk, and sells one "NTE" type number to fit all the competing brands that it's compatible with. We don't use NTE relays, but there's nothing wrong with them.

But the price.

73
 
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