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Palomar 600 Elite: How Many Input Watts Are Too Much?
- Thread starter Robb
- Start date
The only way I would run a newer Palomar or any Boomer is if someone put a gun to my head......even then I might just take the bullet.
here is a diagram for a palomar / boomer 400, it looks like the parts are already there for the dirty ab mod that is in the above link??
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Let bob85, ExitThirteen, Shockwave, unit_399 and the other amp gurus answer that question. Not an amp guru. Am a bit lost on the driver and how doing the AB class mod works here. Be interesting to hear what and how they suggest things.
This amp - BTW - was not my amp. Belonged to a local. All I did was some minor repairs, it is long gone now . . .
This amp - BTW - was not my amp. Belonged to a local. All I did was some minor repairs, it is long gone now . . .
just trying to learn a little something here, the palomar/boomer wiring looks to have the same basic circuit that eagle1911 posted in his kl300 dirty ab bias thread. so i would think that they are ok for ssb
i did look at the new palomar 450fet diagram and that shows the input transformer going straight to ground without this other circuit at all. so i can see where the new ones are class c
i did look at the new palomar 450fet diagram and that shows the input transformer going straight to ground without this other circuit at all. so i can see where the new ones are class c
IMO - the best thing for that amp is to remove the first transistor (will require other mods) and just run with the other four. That way, you could feed it with a radio that has ~20w PEP output - which would match the input requirements of the four pills..
Cleaner and stronger output, cooler running, and far less chance of destroying the pills.
Putting 2879's wour require far more mods to make the combiners work properly. As well as bias changes too. Not for a newbie - that's for sure . . .
IMO
Cleaner and stronger output, cooler running, and far less chance of destroying the pills.
Putting 2879's wour require far more mods to make the combiners work properly. As well as bias changes too. Not for a newbie - that's for sure . . .
IMO
If that is like all of the black face boomer 400 clones that I remember, all the parts were there for a crude bias setup but it was grounded by a wire with a couple of beads on it going to ground making them class c even though they all said AB1 on the face
With the bias hooked up they were too unstable and the builder just grounded it out.
I can't rember who, maybe Bill Either, posted somewhere that there was also a trace on the bottom of the board that you had to cut as well.
Then you could remove the the grounding wire on the input transformer, add a negative feedback network and put a diode on top of transistors for thermal tracking to get it working properly with the bias hooked up.
I remember these were built under half a dozen names back then.
73
Jeff
With the bias hooked up they were too unstable and the builder just grounded it out.
I can't rember who, maybe Bill Either, posted somewhere that there was also a trace on the bottom of the board that you had to cut as well.
Then you could remove the the grounding wire on the input transformer, add a negative feedback network and put a diode on top of transistors for thermal tracking to get it working properly with the bias hooked up.
I remember these were built under half a dozen names back then.
73
Jeff
When I owned and used three of those 4 x 1446 (base) Palomar, shooting star, Boomer, etc etc 11/2 dead key and 12-15 drove each of those amps very nicely. I'm sorry I sold them. I said I'd keep one but enjoyed using the tube amps I own so much I eventually sold all of them. I digress. Anyway. Driving the amp with 11/2 dk and 12 (max) pep should not only be a good starting point but you'll be guaranteed not to over drive it. I wouldn't be surprised if driving that amp you've got there with 11/2 and 12 pep will wind up being the ideal input for the life of it. Good luck Robb. PS. I've yet to read the other replies and wouldn't be surprised if others suggest the same input I did. I hope you found the schematic. I also hope you get the amplifier working as it should. I've seen quite a few of those up for grabs on eBay over the years and they always sell.