i got no idea what you talking about, im using the module mounted in the radio, Sanjian studios, pll-6led-h3
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President Madison Freq Counter
- Thread starter Xitami
- Start date
If you want to read the channel frequency while receiving, this is the correct tapoff point to use. Just one problem. You need a frequency display that can subtract 7.8 MHz from the frequency at R106.
Here's one we have used to install in radios and external VFOs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231318983590?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
If you prefer LEDs to a LCD, this one works quite well for us http://www.ebay.com/itm/111243709316?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Multiple Chinabay sellers have that one, in blue, green red and yellow. For some reason the word "cymometer" shows up in those listings. Best I can tell it's a made-up word, but simplifies an Ebay search.
The procedure to set up the offset frequency uses two pushbuttons on the rear. It can add the offset frequency, or subtract it like your radio will need.
Even so, it will read correctly only for one of the radio's three modes. You can program only one offset frequency in these displays. But the radio's internal offset is different by 1.5 kHx between each of the three modes. But you can set it up for any one mode, and tolerate the 'wrong' reading on the other two modes.
They are meant to be powered from about 9 Volts DC. Powering the LCD version from 13.8 Volts runs the risk you'll overheat the display's internal 5-Volt regulator. We use a 47-ohm (I think) resistor in the positive power lead for the LCD version. The current drain is constant, and this is all that's needed. The LED display will need a 7808T or 7809T regulator to drop the radio's supply voltage down to a voltage that's safe for the display.
73
Here's one we have used to install in radios and external VFOs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231318983590?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
If you prefer LEDs to a LCD, this one works quite well for us http://www.ebay.com/itm/111243709316?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Multiple Chinabay sellers have that one, in blue, green red and yellow. For some reason the word "cymometer" shows up in those listings. Best I can tell it's a made-up word, but simplifies an Ebay search.
The procedure to set up the offset frequency uses two pushbuttons on the rear. It can add the offset frequency, or subtract it like your radio will need.
Even so, it will read correctly only for one of the radio's three modes. You can program only one offset frequency in these displays. But the radio's internal offset is different by 1.5 kHx between each of the three modes. But you can set it up for any one mode, and tolerate the 'wrong' reading on the other two modes.
They are meant to be powered from about 9 Volts DC. Powering the LCD version from 13.8 Volts runs the risk you'll overheat the display's internal 5-Volt regulator. We use a 47-ohm (I think) resistor in the positive power lead for the LCD version. The current drain is constant, and this is all that's needed. The LED display will need a 7808T or 7809T regulator to drop the radio's supply voltage down to a voltage that's safe for the display.
73
Last edited:
From YouTube:
Published on Jul 11, 2014
*MANUAL AND DOCUMENTATION HIDDEN HERE:
http://pan.baidu.com/share/home?uk=36... *
This is a brief overview and demonstration video of how to operate the SanJian Studio LED Frequency Counter; commonly being sold on eBay by name names. This is the 65Mhz model PLJ-6LED-A2. This unit did not come with instructions, so here you are:
Function Buttons:
Bottom/Triangle: Switch between 10/100hz in live mode; change option settings.
Top/Back-up: Enter menu/option mode, advance menu, advance digits in IF setting.
To switch between 10/100 hz mode: While the counter is in operation; simply press the bottom button.
Note: When measuring frequencies of 10MHz or higher; only 100hz mode will show the complete frequency read-out. However, the unit will still sample frequencies over 10mhz with 10hz of accuracy, you will just be missing the first digit.
Brightness: The brightness is computer controlled; and is the third menu option. Press the top/backup button until you see a number between 01 and 08. Press the bottom button to cycle through the brightness.
IF Settings: This unit has the ability to use a programmed IF offset; and will maintain it's programming through power cycles. To program the offset; press the menu button once; your display will show all 0s (or an offset if one exists); and flash the first digit. You *MUST* cycle this first digit back around to 0 (unless you want a 10mhz+ offset) in order to access the additional digits; you increase the digit by pressing the bottom button. Pressing the top button will cycle you to the next digit. You exit the programming mode by cycling through the digits; the unit will return to counter mode. Press the menu button twice to program whether the IF offset is below (n IF) or above (u IF) the counter input.
That's it. That is all there is to operating this counter. IF settings are maintained across power settings and must be changed/cleared by hand each time.
The overall dimensions of the unit are 3.5""x1"x1" (h.w.d); and the 65mhz version can be found on ebay for around $12.
Published on Jul 11, 2014
*MANUAL AND DOCUMENTATION HIDDEN HERE:
http://pan.baidu.com/share/home?uk=36... *
This is a brief overview and demonstration video of how to operate the SanJian Studio LED Frequency Counter; commonly being sold on eBay by name names. This is the 65Mhz model PLJ-6LED-A2. This unit did not come with instructions, so here you are:
Function Buttons:
Bottom/Triangle: Switch between 10/100hz in live mode; change option settings.
Top/Back-up: Enter menu/option mode, advance menu, advance digits in IF setting.
To switch between 10/100 hz mode: While the counter is in operation; simply press the bottom button.
Note: When measuring frequencies of 10MHz or higher; only 100hz mode will show the complete frequency read-out. However, the unit will still sample frequencies over 10mhz with 10hz of accuracy, you will just be missing the first digit.
Brightness: The brightness is computer controlled; and is the third menu option. Press the top/backup button until you see a number between 01 and 08. Press the bottom button to cycle through the brightness.
IF Settings: This unit has the ability to use a programmed IF offset; and will maintain it's programming through power cycles. To program the offset; press the menu button once; your display will show all 0s (or an offset if one exists); and flash the first digit. You *MUST* cycle this first digit back around to 0 (unless you want a 10mhz+ offset) in order to access the additional digits; you increase the digit by pressing the bottom button. Pressing the top button will cycle you to the next digit. You exit the programming mode by cycling through the digits; the unit will return to counter mode. Press the menu button twice to program whether the IF offset is below (n IF) or above (u IF) the counter input.
That's it. That is all there is to operating this counter. IF settings are maintained across power settings and must be changed/cleared by hand each time.
The overall dimensions of the unit are 3.5""x1"x1" (h.w.d); and the 65mhz version can be found on ebay for around $12.
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Good tips - as always, NomadRadio.
I kinda like this one myself. Reads all eight digits and uses a TCXO accurate to +/-2.5ppm. Come in different colors too. Feeding it with coax would probably be best, and it has a voltage range of 9v-15v and a programmable IF offset that is kept in memory. Haven't found the documentation/instructions for it yet. Have a Cobra 2000GTL that I'm thinking about putting it in:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-1...2053113709.html?spm=2114.40010508.4.52.DbOncS
EDIT:
Just ordered it from China for $13/free shipping . . .
I kinda like this one myself. Reads all eight digits and uses a TCXO accurate to +/-2.5ppm. Come in different colors too. Feeding it with coax would probably be best, and it has a voltage range of 9v-15v and a programmable IF offset that is kept in memory. Haven't found the documentation/instructions for it yet. Have a Cobra 2000GTL that I'm thinking about putting it in:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-1...2053113709.html?spm=2114.40010508.4.52.DbOncS
EDIT:
Just ordered it from China for $13/free shipping . . .
Last edited:
I think if you are going to install an onboard counter then it needs to work on ALL modes otherwise its just a back yard cowboy mod, SO, would it be better to install a FC-347 counter used by galaxy radios???, and hook it up right so it covers am and both sideband offsets ??
How hard would this be to do to a madison 8917pll radio??
According to a seller of these on USA Ebay he supplies the hookup wires for other non-ready radios(radios without counter socket on back).
Would this not be a better bet???
One could remove the guts out of the case and install it nicely where a madison clock goes.
Would this work??????
How hard would this be to do to a madison 8917pll radio??
According to a seller of these on USA Ebay he supplies the hookup wires for other non-ready radios(radios without counter socket on back).
Would this not be a better bet???
One could remove the guts out of the case and install it nicely where a madison clock goes.
Would this work??????
Here is the url for the FC-347 on ebay, he states he supplies instructions for the cobra 148GTL, is that a 8719pll radio??, should work???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182105180902?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182105180902?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Yes, the Galaxy FC-347's and the FC-390's will work fine for your Madison. You have to go in and solder a bridge inside the unit to get 7.8mhz IF, but other than that it's easy to hook up and it will be accurate on all modes.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
Very cool, we will grab one from Ebay and get on with it, thank you for your expert advise.