Questions with cobra 148gtl finals

[Master Chief]

Every 148 I have seen has a 1969 in it.

My bad. I confused "swapping out the final for another one" as in the AM radios, with "using the one that comes in the radio stock" as in the stock SSB radios. What I tried to say is that you don't need to swap out the final in the 148.

Yummmm......shoe leather!

 

[chec0]

thanks for your help guys i guess ill leave the radio the way it is and look into getting an amp
and next time should i post a question about my 148gtl in CB section not export???

 

[loosecannon]

people seem to be pretty cool around here when it comes to posting in the incorrect section, but for the record, a 148gtl, even if modified, is still a type accepted (by the FCC) CB radio.

exports are the ones with dual finals, 10 meter coverage, unlocked clarifiers, etc...
basically any radio that does more than 4 watts and 40 channels without modification.

BTW, just my opinion, but man that avatar is ANNOYING!!!
makes it hard to look at my screen. (no , im not a 'fraidy cat!LOL)
you might think about changing it if you want people to spend time reading your questions.
just my 2 cents, and, as on the radio, you play how you want to play,
take it easy,
loosecannon

 

[KC2OST]

people seem to be pretty cool around here when it comes to posting in the incorrect section, but for the record, a 148gtl, even if modified, is still a type accepted (by the FCC) CB radio.

exports are the ones with dual finals, 10 meter coverage, unlocked clarifiers, etc...
basically any radio that does more than 4 watts and 40 channels without modification.

BTW, just my opinion, but man that avatar is ANNOYING!!!
makes it hard to look at my screen. (no , im not a 'fraidy cat!LOL)
you might think about changing it if you want people to spend time reading your questions.
just my 2 cents, and, as on the radio, you play how you want to play,
take it easy,
loosecannon

WRONG!
Any modification to a legal cb radio voids its type acceptance and
your authority to operate the station.

If any repairs are done they have to comply with the original factory specs.

 

[chec0]

people seem to be pretty cool around here when it comes to posting in the incorrect section, but for the record, a 148gtl, even if modified, is still a type accepted (by the FCC) CB radio.

exports are the ones with dual finals, 10 meter coverage, unlocked clarifiers, etc...
basically any radio that does more than 4 watts and 40 channels without modification.

BTW, just my opinion, but man that avatar is ANNOYING!!!
makes it hard to look at my screen. (no , im not a 'fraidy cat!LOL)
you might think about changing it if you want people to spend time reading your questions.
just my 2 cents, and, as on the radio, you play how you want to play,
take it easy,
loosecannon

10-4 driver ill change my avatar and next time post in CB section thanks man

 

[loosecannon]

yeah, i should have worded that differently.LOL

i was trying to say too much in too few words.

i do know that any mods void the type acceptance.

i was trying to point out that CB's are type accepted, and exports arent.
good lookin' out librium,
loosecannon

 

[DTB Radio]

I didn't read every post in the thread, so some of this might be parroting others. In a sideband radio, I do not recommend the mosfet mod because of the nonlinear operation of a mosfet. As someone did say, a small amp is a MUCH better idea.

 

[chec0]

So should i leave the 1969 final in the radio or is the ERF-2030 final better???

 

[loosecannon]

IMO, yes, you should definitely leave the 1969 in the radio.
as it is, you can get about 25 watts PEP out of that radio if set up right.
you'd get maybe 40 watts out of the ERF part, and no one on the receiving end will be able to tell the difference.

your modding time would be better spent doing this audio modification. its been done by more than a few here, including me, and was invented, (i think) by a man named justin depolis.
very smart tech.
here ya go:

"First, UNDO everything that you've done. No NPC, no volted finals, and put TR-24 back to normal. Putting a 1K just messes up the ALC loopback and this isn't good. Put R131 back to a 10K.

Now, jumper R180, this will increase power output and keep the bias from going negative. Replace C46 with a .2 monolythic, and R114 with a 10K. Remove the AM regulator, (usually a 2SC1419) and replace it with a 2N6487. Remove the 1uf in front of the 2N6487, and add a 1000uf from the negative hole on the board where the 1uf was and the positive lead on the 1000uf to the base of the 2N6487 (the lead farthest toward the back of the radio) Change C18 to a 1000uf 16 volt electrolytic. Add a 100 ohm resistor from pin 12 to pin 14 of the SO42P / TDA6310 transmit mixer. Remove TR-26. This disables the AMC for AM, but keeps the ALC for SSB intact.

The above will help more than anything out there floating around the internet."

have fun,
loosecannon

 

[chec0]

IMO, yes, you should definitely leave the 1969 in the radio.
as it is, you can get about 25 watts PEP out of that radio if set up right.
you'd get maybe 40 watts out of the ERF part, and no one on the receiving end will be able to tell the difference.

your modding time would be better spent doing this audio modification. its been done by more than a few here, including me, and was invented, (i think) by a man named justin depolis.
very smart tech.
here ya go:

"First, UNDO everything that you've done. No NPC, no volted finals, and put TR-24 back to normal. Putting a 1K just messes up the ALC loopback and this isn't good. Put R131 back to a 10K.

Now, jumper R180, this will increase power output and keep the bias from going negative. Replace C46 with a .2 monolythic, and R114 with a 10K. Remove the AM regulator, (usually a 2SC1419) and replace it with a 2N6487. Remove the 1uf in front of the 2N6487, and add a 1000uf from the negative hole on the board where the 1uf was and the positive lead on the 1000uf to the base of the 2N6487 (the lead farthest toward the back of the radio) Change C18 to a 1000uf 16 volt electrolytic. Add a 100 ohm resistor from pin 12 to pin 14 of the SO42P / TDA6310 transmit mixer. Remove TR-26. This disables the AMC for AM, but keeps the ALC for SSB intact.

The above will help more than anything out there floating around the internet."

have fun,
loosecannon

thanks for the info man i aprreciate it
now let me ask u this does it matter what the radio puts out for watts if im gonna run an amp i know the modulation has to get turned down right???

 

[loosecannon]

well, there is really no way to answer this without catching hell from SOMEONE.LOL

it depends on the amp.

if you are talking about the run of the mill "2 pill" amp, then turn the deadkey down to about 2.5-3 watts.

if i were you, i would do the audio mods, set VR10 for 2.5 watts, and buy a KL300p or something similar in price.

get a good quality mic, (i like the astatic M6b's) there are many good ones out there, and you will have a kick ass station for not much money at all.
loosecannon

 

[TonyV225]

Leave that radio alone leave the 1969 in it if its working you may not like what happens after that mosfet swapout your SSB may get funky and you will be kickin yourself in the arse. Those 148 are great radios you will be much happier with a small amo trust me. Also your radio wont get as hot as it would with running mor power out of it thats what amps are for and if your amp ever takes a $h!+ atleast you still have a radio right??

 

[chec0]

Leave that radio alone leave the 1969 in it if its working you may not like what happens after that mosfet swapout your SSB may get funky and you will be kickin yourself in the arse. Those 148 are great radios you will be much happier with a small amo trust me. Also your radio wont get as hot as it would with running mor power out of it thats what amps are for and if your amp ever takes a $h!+ atleast you still have a radio right??

good point ill just wait until i can get an amp
thanks for all the helps guys this is a great place

 

[lords]

I pmed ya asking if you wanted a amp...guess you don't

 

[chec0]

im checking it right now