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radio dead key mod help

Se7en

Well-Known Member
Jun 27, 2010
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hi, i have a Texas ranger 696FD1 and would like to add a variable dead key.
IMO don't, i just need to remove the dead key pot on the mother board and tap three wires to a pot, and i have a variable dead key? or if there is a different way to do this please fill me in on what to do thanks.
 

hi, i have a Texas ranger 696FD1 and would like to add a variable dead key.
IMO don't, i just need to remove the dead key pot on the mother board and tap three wires to a pot, and i have a variable dead key? or if there is a different way to do this please fill me in on what to do thanks.

That will work perfectly.
 
VR-14 is the AM TX power adjustment pot.

http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/rci/tr_936/graphics/tr_936_966_sm.pdf
(Same board/radio as the TR-696FD-1)

Never done this kind of mod. But you would have to remove VR-14 and measure its resistance and then wire another pot with the same resistance value to the same corresponding connections. Then, you will need to align the meter on your radio to correspond with the wattage going out. These meters aren't that accurate; but if you adjust it so it is correct between 1 and 4 watts it should work OK.

Again, I haven't done this mod before - but that much makes sense to me. Maybe someone that has done it to this radio can speak up and say that I am right or wrong.

In other words - 'bump' . . .

EDIT: unit_399 - JJ ya beat me to it . . .
 
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Morse -

VR14 is a 5k ohm pot. The new control should be the same. Use an external watt meter to check the deadkey, as the meter on the radio isn't labeled in the rf range.
 
As 399 said, there is no scale on the RF Power scale on the meter. But you can use the S-meter numbers to act as a reference, so long as you use an external power meter to get your reference from first.

Don't know if the radio will go down to 1 watt on the low side. You will have to find out. Not all radios do unless a swing mod is also used. If/when you do the variable power mod - please post your findings here . . .
 

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i only use the internal meter for S-units. never use it for SWR readings or output readings. ok, cool ill have to do the mod soon than. should i turn the pot all the way down then unsolder it from the board and turn the new pot all the way down then solder and i should be good? or it doesn't matter?
 
OK, I may be stupid here and do not quite get what you are trying to achieve???

Isn't VR14 a Variable Resistor in the first place?

What am I missing?

Unless of course you are talking about using one of the knobs on the front of the radio for a RF Power control?
 
If I were to do such a mod; I would put it on the back of the radio too . . .

Robb did you ever unlock the clarifier on yours?

I am also gonna unlock Talkback and Rogerbeep and add Pin switches to the back, so if I get tired of it I can turn it off. Also gonna put a recieve kit and the 520 mosfet kit in. Well one day. maybe today but I doubt it. :D
 
Robb did you ever unlock the clarifier on yours?

I am also gonna unlock Talkback and Rogerbeep and add Pin switches to the back, so if I get tired of it I can turn it off. Also gonna put a recieve kit and the 520 mosfet kit in. Well one day. maybe today but I doubt it. :D

I had Sparky's CB do it. I bought the radio from them. When they unlocked the clarifier - all they did was clip the diodes, used a jumper wire for the +8v feed, and then pulled the knob off the clarifier and re-positioned it. On would expect them to re-align the PLL and re-center the clarifier knob - but they didn't. Kindofa half-azz job for $25 if you ask me. Found that out when I aligned the whole radio myself; it needed an alignment badly and benefitted greatly when I did it.

I wouldn't replace the final with a MOSFET until the original one fails.

Did my first receive mod with the Shottkey diodes/Sanyo transistor on this radio. Also replaced the regulator with a beefier one; the lights no longer dim when I key the mic. Haven't done the freq mod yet; but having a 6 place freq counter in the radio makes this mod especially worthwhile - IMO . . .
 
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Since the main board in this is a 69610z just like the Galaxy 949/959, and they have variable RF power, shouldn't there be a spot on the board ready make to add an external power control?
 
IM GOING TO USE POT ON THE BACK FOR VARIABLE POWER / Dead Key.
you should unlock the clarifier. i did and every other mod possible.
id also, like to add a second 1969 final so it can be a dual final rig but... that will be another day another time.
 
The best way to have variable power is to adjust it at predriver stage. Usually I'm using micgain knob for that to don't drill holes in the chassis.I can adjust power in all modes smooth.
If someone can show schematic of this radio (or similar) I can tell you where exactly you need put VR.
Mike
 
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