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radio dead key mod help

This is the schematic for the Galaxy 959/pdf attached below - which is the same board as the TR-696 FD-1. It probably shows where the RF Power knob is in the circuit. One of the differences between the 959 and the 696 is that the 959 already has an RF Output control on the front panel.

But show us where you would place it - sp5it.
 

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Its what I did to mine morse However I mounted the new knob in the back of the radio.


You mounted the variable on the BACK of the radio???????? Nothing like making it inconvenient to get to........kind of like GM locating the floor mounted parking brake on the passenger side floor.
 
You mounted the variable on the BACK of the radio???????? Nothing like making it inconvenient to get to........kind of like GM locating the floor mounted parking brake on the passenger side floor.

Maybe; depends how the radio is mounted I guess. Either mobile or base makes a difference too.

I'd still rather have a knob on the back rather that hack the controls on the front of the radio. After getting and working on hacked-up radios; I never want to get another one again - nor work on another one either. Nor turn a radio into a hacked up mess. All of the mods I do any more are ones that are easily reversible. When doing an unlocked clarifier; I just lift a leg of the diode(s) rather than removal - as an example. The front panel of these radios are really crowded and getting in there and hacking it doesn't make modding it that way a viable or simple solution - IMO.

A mini 1k pot/in series with R249 mounted on the back (that will seldom be used) to adjust power levels between amp usage and stock operation is enough for the job. If one really wants to make it simpler still - you can even wire up a switch and a carefully chosen resistor to get the same effect. I think sp5it's solution and approach to the mod is really the best way to go - too . . .
;)
 
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You mounted the variable on the BACK of the radio???????? Nothing like making it inconvenient to get to........kind of like GM locating the floor mounted parking brake on the passenger side floor.

Ive got it set where I want and now I dont touch and still got all my controls.

I see your point though Psycho, but I rarely touch the darn thing.
 
No not specifically, However you did say you did all the possible mods to it.

Was just curious is all.

If Morse ever decides to make it a dual final radio; then the regulator beef-up kit becomes necessary. I replaced that because the radio used to dim quite a bit when I keyed the mic with just a single final. It assures no voltage dip when TXing.

If you are an AMer Morse; then the receive kit will be of some value. It will make the AM receive more sensitive. If you do a bit of SSB/DX; then you may well consider the receive mod; changing out the SSB receive circuit with a better transistor helps considerably - IMO. Shottkey diodes ('1N6263') are cheap and are easy to replace for the 1N60P's found in the AM detector and the noise blanket circuits.
 
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If Morse ever decides to make it a dual final radio; then the regulator beef-up kit becomes necessary. I replaced that because the radio used to dim quite a bit when I keyed the mic with just a single final. It assures no voltage dip when TXing.

If you are an AMer Morse; then the receive kit will be of some value. It will make the AM receive more sensitive. If you do a bit of SSB/DX; then you may well consider the receive mod; changing out the SSB receive circuit with a better transistor helps considerably - IMO. Shottkey diodes ('1N6263') are cheap and are easy to replace for the 1N60P's found in the AM detector and the noise blanket circuits.

it would be nice to have a more sensitive am rx. i do most of my DX'ing on AM with this radio. still haven't done the Variable external dk yet. i plan on just soldering the two closest legs on the VR pot and running a pot in series.... going to start on it tomorrow. i need a 1k pot right?
 
"....Put micgain pot or any other 1kohm pot in series with R249 located in collector of Q52..."

Just like sp5it said earlier in this thread. I haven't done it; but sp5it knows his stuff though. Sounds right to me. I would NOT use the mic gain pot; that panel is just too crowded and you need that mic gain control left intact. I would get a mini 1k pot and put it on the back of the radio. Yup yup.
 
"....Put micgain pot or any other 1kohm pot in series with R249 located in collector of Q52..."

Just like sp5it said earlier in this thread. I haven't done it; but sp5it knows his stuff though. Sounds right to me. I would NOT use the mic gain pot; that panel is just too crowded and you need that mic gain control left intact. I would get a mini 1k pot and put it on the back of the radio. Yup yup.

too bad all i have is 100k mini pot's ill have to run over to ratshack
 
The other 'option' is to put a 1k pot in temporarily long enough to set it at the desired dead key setting and then measure the resistance of that pot. Then use a switch and a fixed resistor (with the same/close resistance to you prior adjusted pot reading) to switch between your 1 watt dead key back to the standard 4 watt dead key.
That will work too . . .
 
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The other 'option' is to put a 1k pot in temporarily long enough to set it at the desired dead key setting and then measure the resistance of that pot. Then use a switch and a fixed resistor (with the same/close resistance to you prior adjusted pot reading) to switch between your 1 watt dead key back to the standard 4 watt dead key.
That will work too . . .

if i was to have anything done this would be it .have done to toggle switches ya
anity gionna use .say bright/dim or tone hi low,ch9 .dont know if ya actually have
any of therse or not but ya kinda get the idea.keeps the stock look of radio
 
@ Robb. no dimming issues here.
also, the only pot i found at radio shack is huge! i need something small like this:
the one on the right is 100K (also too big) the one on the left is 8.5k
2011-08-06_18-56-38_662.jpg
 

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