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Radio Shack IRF-510 in a Cobra 29 Impressions

CTStallion

Active Member
Aug 29, 2010
196
21
28
Connecticut
I just couldn't resist....

After reading all the hoopla about MOSFETs, I just had to try one in my Cobra 29.

I used to build some serious Cobra 29's using 2SC1969's, 2SC1307's, 2SC2312's, etc.... but it was a LOT of work to properly volt the final in order, get the audio chain and everything up to snuff. It used to take anywhere from 12 to 15 components, and upwards of 2 hours to perform the mods. BUT...(knock on wood), I ALWAYS had satisfied customers (as long as they weren't trying to run the rig on a 3 amp pwr supply!)

Note: (NO... I never clipped D11.... before you even ask)

Anyway.... I just HAD to try the MOSFET mod on my FAVORITE Cobra 29: A Brand New, Still in the Box, 2003 Cobra 29-LTD Classic Harley Davidson Edition. This one was made in CHINA.

Not having an IRF-520 or ERF-2030 available locally, and not wanting to spend more on shipping for a single component than the value of (read: cheapskate)... I went to my local Radio Shack and found they carry the IRF-510 (15W version) for only $1.99. I figured, what-the-heck....

(Yes, I realize the IRF-520 or ERF-2030 are more robust and can dissipate more power, BUT this was purely an experiment.)

So, here is the procedure I used (some of it follows my old 2SC1969 days:

1. Took the radio out of the box, connected it to a 13.8V supply, Wawasse Catalyzer JBC-1000-SM & dummy load, and commenced taking initial readings. Then I hooked it up to a peak reading wattmeter & modulation meter and finished initial tests.
2. Removed radio covers and adjusted AMC for maximum modulation.
3. Removed TR14 (the stock 2078 final) and the following additional components: JP36, R55, R56, C61, & L14'S tuning slug.
4. Fabricated a 'discrete' EN-1230 component part using 1 X 1N4148/1N914 diode + 1 X 470 ohm 1/2 watt carbon resistor + 1 X 1/2 watt 3.3K ohm resistor. Placed same (with positive lead facing toward R123) in place of the removed R56.
5. Installed a 47 ohm 1 watt carbon resistor across a 220 uF 35VDC electrolytic capacitor, with negative facing final in place of the removed JP36.
6. Powered up the radio, turned the dynamike control to MINIMUM, and made note of the dead key wattage.
7. Depowered radio and removed the 33 pF factory cap installed across C62 & replaced it with a 100 pF cap (to see if it would raise my dead key... it DIDN'T....) so I reinstalled the 33 pF cap across C62
8. Experimented with different capacitor settings across C59 (mod calls for 68 pF and I didn't have one.) Settled for a 39 pF Mica which provides approx 309 pF of total capacitance... (higher values reduced my peaks and made my audio with the stock mike sound crappy.) But you can completely skip this addition on many radios, or merely add the called for 68 pF of additional capacitance.
9. Connected the radio (sans covers) back to the test equipment & dummy load and turned the Dynamike control back up to MAX.
10. While saying: 'HEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOO, & AUUUUUUUUUUDDDDDDDDDDDIIIIIIIIIOOOOOOOOOOOO, and/or whistling :whistle:into the mike, adjusted forward power for maximum via L12, 13, 17 & 20.
11. Checked for harmonics in 54 MHz band with a separate receiver... minimal.

Wanna know if it worked?????

Here's the BEFORE and AFTER RESULTS: (Before was a STOCK radio)

BEFORE: RF Output Deadkey Approx 3.2 watts AFTER: Approx 2.5 watts
BEFORE: RMS Swing Watts Approx 3.5 watts AFTER: Approx 12.5 watts
BEFORE: Percent AM Modulation 80% dynamike at max AFTER: 100+++ Percent... Pins meter on whistles
BEFORE: Peak (PEP) Swing Watts Approx 9.1 PEP AFTER: Almost 40 Watts!!!

I couldn't believe it.... how was a 15W Mosfet (I know, I know, it's cuz of the capacitor mod across JP36) putting out almost 40 Watts??? There must be something wrong with my PEP wattmeter, so I put it on the PEAK meter of my MFJ 962D (low setting) and guess what??? 45 PEAK WATTS on whistles (with the STOCK MIKE and D11 intact!!!)

Can't be..... Can't be.......... this is only a 15W device..... must be bad meters... let's check the 20W setting of the Radio Shack SWR/Power Meter...... PEGS IT. Okay, okay... let's switch to the 200W scale: dang... STILL close to 40 Watts.

Okay, so while I've got the radio open I replace D5, D6 & D24 with NTE583's, connect the antenna & external speaker, and adjust VR1 RX gain to near max... then back off some (to my liking).... and get a radio check.

Locals are ASTONISHED! :eek: I'm thinking: "right, right.... I need to hear this thing for myself".... so I bribe my 13 y.o. to get on the rig and I go out in the mobile a few blocks and call her.

All I can say is: "HOLY MOLY!!!" Even with just the factory stock mike it is BOOMING!

So, I do a bunch more tests and experiments (and I did many along the way) and all I can say is WOW!

I looked at the waveform on the Catalyzer and it isn't too bad UNTIL you whistle, or connect a powermike... then it just gets nasty. As long as you keep the modulation as close to 100% (slightly above actually due to the capacitor/resistor mod across JP36) it's not too bad.

So... I immediately ordered a dozen IRF520's to begin experimenting with other rigs. I never even checked the driver transistor to see if it's a 2028 (which I suspect), or a 1957/2314 equivalent. If it's the higher powered 1957 or 2314, it may be possible (if it hasn't been done already) to drive an IRF520 or an ERF-2030 into 50W territory! Most Exports can't even do THAT!

Am I a "believer" of MOSFET's in HF yet? I'd be a fool NOT to... most commercial and HF transceivers made nowadays have MOSFET finals.

Do I think the MOSFET mods are "better" in a Cobra 29 than the old "tried and true 2SC1969 (or other NPN) mods of "yesteryear"??? .... the jury is still out... I'll let you know after I experiment with the IRF520's, ERF-2030's, and a few RD16HHF1's for a while........

At present, I am still inclined to favor the NPN (2SC1969) mod better because you can volt the final for a higher dead key. I have built several 1969 29s' which will deadkey 8-10W and swing to over 20 (RMS) with peaks darn near 50 under full modulation (again, with D11 INTACT!, or else they will squeal like little piglets when the owner hooks up the powermike he just bought at some truck stop).

Perhaps once I get the deadkey up where I want it with the "proper" MOSFET, and not just the RadioShack IRF-510, I can continue to develop a mod for the Cobra 29 that I'd be willing to call a "Competition Ready" radio. Given the 15W power dissipation rating of the Radio Shack device (according to the packaging) it's only a matter of time before I fry this device and by then, the IRF520's will have arrived.

P.S.: My buddy just got a new Galaxy DX98VHP which is (I THINK) comprised of 11 IRF520's (3 in the main body, and 8 in the amplifier section).

Sooner or later, the supply of NPN RF Power Transistors suitable for HF transmitters in the 25-50 W category will dwindle (as in the case of MRF 477, 497, 2SC1969, NTE/ECG Equivalents, etc.....). There is an Asian (Hong Kong?) Company (name escapes me but it reminds me of the American Co. Elecraft)... which mfgs equivalent NPN Power Transistors. There's a guy on eBay in the U.K. who is their sole eBay distributor. Any of you ever try those components??? :confused:
 
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Reactions: secret squirrel

The company manufacturing the 2sc1969 etc replacements is Eleflow,the uk seller is Mark,weazle66.I've never bought the eleflow transistors off him,but have bought original nec 2sc1307 and mitsubishi 2sc1969 and international rectifier irf520 from him,he's always been a very genuine guy to deal with.i have no reason to doubt his eleflow replacements will do as he says.i know other people are happy with buying them from him.
 
Congrats!

I know that EKL/ERF-2030's are made by RF Limited/Sam Lewis/Magnum Int'l.

I've had poor luck buying IRF-520's on eBay. Seems that they are very prone to damage due to the slightest hint of static electricity. DOA. Never thought of Radio Shack as a possible supplier. I know that Fry's Electronics carries the NTE line.
 
The company manufacturing the 2sc1969 etc replacements is Eleflow,the uk seller is Mark,weazle66.I've never bought the eleflow transistors off him,but have bought original nec 2sc1307 and mitsubishi 2sc1969 and international rectifier irf520 from him,he's always been a very genuine guy to deal with.i have no reason to doubt his eleflow replacements will do as he says.i know other people are happy with buying them from him.

Yep.... THAT'S IT!!! Thanks:)
 
Congrats!

I know that EKL/ERF-2030's are made by RF Limited/Sam Lewis/Magnum Int'l.

I've had poor luck buying IRF-520's on eBay. Seems that they are very prone to damage due to the slightest hint of static electricity. DOA. Never thought of Radio Shack as a possible supplier. I know that Fry's Electronics carries the NTE line.

Those are my thoughts EXACTLY, but Jazzsinger has dealt with a genuine guy in the U.K. who has provided genuine parts.

I saw a couple of videos of his work on eBay and he apparently knows what he's doing, but always nice to know "who" you can trust.
 
Most of the 2sc2166,2sc2312 and 2sc1969 worldwide on e bay are fakes,the few that aren't are very pricey.the most reliable way i've found of telling the originals from the fakes is genuine mitsubishi's have two small plastic triangle's dropping between the base/collector lead and the collector/emitter lead.none of the fakes i've seen has this small detail.

another thing to look out for is the letter c in the originals is stretched out,like an oval with one side cut out,whereas the letter c in the fakes is generally circular with a bit cut out.

the 2sc1969/2312/2166 is always between the mitsubishi logo and the date code on all the originals,although some of the better looking fakes have this too,but they don't have the small triangles or elongated letter c that the originals have.these small subtle differences should prevent you from wasting money on fakes.

no other company made these devices so that is the biggest clue you are dealing with fakes.buying the fakes only encourages the retards who make and sell them to make/sell more.

another clue will be the price,if its too good to be true,thats because it isn't true.expect to pay upward of 10 uk pounds/15 us dollars for real 2sc1969 or 2sc2312 and 5 uk pounds/ 7.5 us dollars for real 2sc2166,any cheaper they are almost definately fakes unless you are VERY VERY lucky.

you may get lucky on the 2sc2166's as they aren't as rare as the other two,especially if you buy them from a non radio supplier who isn't up to date on whats happening and has had them lying in stock for a number of years.if you do,buy everything he's got because its unlikely you'll get another chance to do so.

from what i'm led to believe e bay now has a new policy on selling fakes,the seller must reimburse you and doesn't get the fakes back.which can only be good for the future,if you get fakes ensure you raise the claim on that point and not the fact its faulty.they will try and wriggle out of it claiming they didn't know they were fake,sure,they know alright and if they don't they shouldn't be selling electronic compnents.


hopefully this info will help out someone.
 
UPDATE: SWAPPED IRF-510 FOR IRF-520

Received a substantial quantity of of IRF-520's today. Swapped one into the Cobra 29 in place of the IRF-510.

As I thought, no difference in power output.

IRF-520 merely is capable of dissipating more power but offers no additional gain in the current circuit design. In fact... the 510 "appeared" to be slightly better, but not noticable on the air.

Wonder what an ERF-2030 would do? My guess is that it would offer no additional gain.

Hope to get my hands on some & we'll see...

I just couldn't resist....

After reading all the hoopla about MOSFETs, I just had to try one in my Cobra 29.

I used to build some serious Cobra 29's using 2SC1969's, 2SC1307's, 2SC2312's, etc.... but it was a LOT of work to properly volt the final in order, get the audio chain and everything up to snuff. It used to take anywhere from 12 to 15 components, and upwards of 2 hours to perform the mods. BUT...(knock on wood), I ALWAYS had satisfied customers (as long as they weren't trying to run the rig on a 3 amp pwr supply!)

Note: (NO... I never clipped D11.... before you even ask)

Anyway.... I just HAD to try the MOSFET mod on my FAVORITE Cobra 29: A Brand New, Still in the Box, 2003 Cobra 29-LTD Classic Harley Davidson Edition. This one was made in CHINA.

Not having an IRF-520 or ERF-2030 available locally, and not wanting to spend more on shipping for a single component than the value of (read: cheapskate)... I went to my local Radio Shack and found they carry the IRF-510 (15W version) for only $1.99. I figured, what-the-heck....

(Yes, I realize the IRF-520 or ERF-2030 are more robust and can dissipate more power, BUT this was purely an experiment.)

So, here is the procedure I used (some of it follows my old 2SC1969 days:

1. Took the radio out of the box, connected it to a 13.8V supply, Wawasse Catalyzer JBC-1000-SM & dummy load, and commenced taking initial readings. Then I hooked it up to a peak reading wattmeter & modulation meter and finished initial tests.
2. Removed radio covers and adjusted AMC for maximum modulation.
3. Removed TR14 (the stock 2078 final) and the following additional components: JP36, R55, R56, C61, & L14'S tuning slug.
4. Fabricated a 'discrete' EN-1230 component part using 1 X 1N4148/1N914 diode + 1 X 470 ohm 1/2 watt carbon resistor + 1 X 1/2 watt 3.3K ohm resistor. Placed same (with positive lead facing toward R123) in place of the removed R56.
5. Installed a 47 ohm 1 watt carbon resistor across a 220 uF 35VDC electrolytic capacitor, with negative facing final in place of the removed JP36.
6. Powered up the radio, turned the dynamike control to MINIMUM, and made note of the dead key wattage.
7. Depowered radio and removed the 33 pF factory cap installed across C62 & replaced it with a 100 pF cap (to see if it would raise my dead key... it DIDN'T....) so I reinstalled the 33 pF cap across C62
8. Experimented with different capacitor settings across C59 (mod calls for 68 pF and I didn't have one.) Settled for a 39 pF Mica which provides approx 309 pF of total capacitance... (higher values reduced my peaks and made my audio with the stock mike sound crappy.) But you can completely skip this addition on many radios, or merely add the called for 68 pF of additional capacitance.
9. Connected the radio (sans covers) back to the test equipment & dummy load and turned the Dynamike control back up to MAX.
10. While saying: 'HEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOO, & AUUUUUUUUUUDDDDDDDDDDDIIIIIIIIIOOOOOOOOOOOO, and/or whistling :whistle:into the mike, adjusted forward power for maximum via L12, 13, 17 & 20.
11. Checked for harmonics in 54 MHz band with a separate receiver... minimal.

Wanna know if it worked?????

Here's the BEFORE and AFTER RESULTS: (Before was a STOCK radio)

BEFORE: RF Output Deadkey Approx 3.2 watts AFTER: Approx 2.5 watts
BEFORE: RMS Swing Watts Approx 3.5 watts AFTER: Approx 12.5 watts
BEFORE: Percent AM Modulation 80% dynamike at max AFTER: 100+++ Percent... Pins meter on whistles
BEFORE: Peak (PEP) Swing Watts Approx 9.1 PEP AFTER: Almost 40 Watts!!!

I couldn't believe it.... how was a 15W Mosfet (I know, I know, it's cuz of the capacitor mod across JP36) putting out almost 40 Watts??? There must be something wrong with my PEP wattmeter, so I put it on the PEAK meter of my MFJ 962D (low setting) and guess what??? 45 PEAK WATTS on whistles (with the STOCK MIKE and D11 intact!!!)

Can't be..... Can't be.......... this is only a 15W device..... must be bad meters... let's check the 20W setting of the Radio Shack SWR/Power Meter...... PEGS IT. Okay, okay... let's switch to the 200W scale: dang... STILL close to 40 Watts.

Okay, so while I've got the radio open I replace D5, D6 & D24 with NTE583's, connect the antenna & external speaker, and adjust VR1 RX gain to near max... then back off some (to my liking).... and get a radio check.

Locals are ASTONISHED! :eek: I'm thinking: "right, right.... I need to hear this thing for myself".... so I bribe my 13 y.o. to get on the rig and I go out in the mobile a few blocks and call her.

All I can say is: "HOLY MOLY!!!" Even with just the factory stock mike it is BOOMING!

So, I do a bunch more tests and experiments (and I did many along the way) and all I can say is WOW!

I looked at the waveform on the Catalyzer and it isn't too bad UNTIL you whistle, or connect a powermike... then it just gets nasty. As long as you keep the modulation as close to 100% (slightly above actually due to the capacitor/resistor mod across JP36) it's not too bad.

So... I immediately ordered a dozen IRF520's to begin experimenting with other rigs. I never even checked the driver transistor to see if it's a 2028 (which I suspect), or a 1957/2314 equivalent. If it's the higher powered 1957 or 2314, it may be possible (if it hasn't been done already) to drive an IRF520 or an ERF-2030 into 50W territory! Most Exports can't even do THAT!

Am I a "believer" of MOSFET's in HF yet? I'd be a fool NOT to... most commercial and HF transceivers made nowadays have MOSFET finals.

Do I think the MOSFET mods are "better" in a Cobra 29 than the old "tried and true 2SC1969 (or other NPN) mods of "yesteryear"??? .... the jury is still out... I'll let you know after I experiment with the IRF520's, ERF-2030's, and a few RD16HHF1's for a while........

At present, I am still inclined to favor the NPN (2SC1969) mod better because you can volt the final for a higher dead key. I have built several 1969 29s' which will deadkey 8-10W and swing to over 20 (RMS) with peaks darn near 50 under full modulation (again, with D11 INTACT!, or else they will squeal like little piglets when the owner hooks up the powermike he just bought at some truck stop).

Perhaps once I get the deadkey up where I want it with the "proper" MOSFET, and not just the RadioShack IRF-510, I can continue to develop a mod for the Cobra 29 that I'd be willing to call a "Competition Ready" radio. Given the 15W power dissipation rating of the Radio Shack device (according to the packaging) it's only a matter of time before I fry this device and by then, the IRF520's will have arrived.

P.S.: My buddy just got a new Galaxy DX98VHP which is (I THINK) comprised of 11 IRF520's (3 in the main body, and 8 in the amplifier section).

Sooner or later, the supply of NPN RF Power Transistors suitable for HF transmitters in the 25-50 W category will dwindle (as in the case of MRF 477, 497, 2SC1969, NTE/ECG Equivalents, etc.....). There is an Asian (Hong Kong?) Company (name escapes me but it reminds me of the American Co. Elecraft)... which mfgs equivalent NPN Power Transistors. There's a guy on eBay in the U.K. who is their sole eBay distributor. Any of you ever try those components??? :confused:
 
Tuning after the Mosfet

I just got done swapping mine out and went to a local truck stop shop to get it tuned. afterward it is a boomer (on a china made no less) and now I am going to do the same for my buddies radio. (cobra29 NW ST)

Now I am very familiar with working on electronics, But not the voodoo that working with RF is, So I am wondering if you can point me in the right direction to being able to tune up a Cobra 29 myself after a mosfet changeover. (I mostly work in computer controls for industrial robotics).

I have 200Mhz Hameg Scope. 50 mhz function generator. a bag of Fluke Multimeters. For CB radio I have a 50 ohm dummy load and a Ratshack SWR/Power meter

I am just not finding any guides online on doing the "peak and tune" and it would be nice to learn how do this. I understand the principles of the job at hand but lack the experience. I hate having to rely on others when I should learn how to do it myself.
 
Bear with me, but am I understanding that this list of components -

CTStallion said:
. . . 1 X 1N4148/1N914 diode + 1 X 470 ohm 1/2 watt carbon resistor + 1 X 1/2 watt 3.3K ohm resistor. Placed same (with positive lead facing toward R123) in place of the removed R56.
-

were daisy chained end-on-end to replace the single component at R56?

and in this list of parts -
CTStallion said:
. . . JP36, R55, R56, C61, & L14'S tuning slug.
- only JP36 was replaced?

Also, can the IRF510 be dropped right in to where the original final is; it is a direct match?

Thanks, everyone.
 
Bear with me, but am I understanding that this list of components -

-

were daisy chained end-on-end to replace the single component at R56?

and in this list of parts -
- only JP36 was replaced?

Also, can the IRF510 be dropped right in to where the original final is; it is a direct match?

Thanks, everyone.

No, they are NOT daisy chained, rather series/parallel (there is another thread within the forums here which shows how to make the discrete component)

For the JP36, it's a simple (I hate this term... "swing-kit") made from a cap & a resistor. If I had a digital camera I'd take a pic for you. They are too are installed in parallel across the removed jumper.

Lastly, YES, the IRF510, or 520, or ERF2030 goes in place of the stock final.... BUT you MUST perform the requisite circuit mods because a mosfet is not fed like an npn.

Hope that helps.
 
IRF520 - 510

Interesting about the discrete component, That one was for a different Mosfet mod ERF-2030 and not the IRF520. Not saying it doesn't work. but the "discrete component" In the outlaw-621 kit was just a switching transistor and a 270 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in parallel to replace R56

My radio is working great with this setup (shrug) I think the Bias on the IRF520 is different from the other kit that requires the EN-1230 part . I just modded my buddies 29 LTD ST the exact same way. I was a little worried when we only saw 25w PEP at first but as soon as I backed out the L14 slug it was hopping over the 40w mark ( better than my radio)

Thanks for the find on the svc manual. I see I will need a couple tools. But it gets me closer to where I need to be.
 
A warning note about MOSFETs. That is - if you aren't aware already. Run them a bit lower (1/3) than their peak handling capacity. Add a small heat sink - 'thermal runaway'. Keep it alive - so that you don't have to inhale too much solder fumes - from constantly having to change them out. I mean; they are cheap to replace. But turning them down a tad (30-33 watts PEP) will keep em working for the long run.
 
5. Installed a 47 ohm 1 watt carbon resistor across a 220 uF 35VDC electrolytic capacitor, with negative facing final in place of the removed JP36.

I recommend putting the jumper back in place. If the AMC is intact and working properly, AND adjusted properly, you can crank the mic gain with absolutely zero distortion, yielding better average modulation. You might see a slight dip in the PEP on your meter, but the actual PEP will not have dropped. Change C71 to a 33uf cap, and set the AMC control for about half-way, maybe a bit counterclockwise from halfway, and I think you'll be even happier with the sound.
 

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