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Ranger AR-3500 Receive Issue

Much of what I read in your posts, suggests that not just a recap - but perhaps some diode checking too...

Why?

Diodes can have a weak current pass thru them, in doing so, passes along a lot of RF power across them.

Diodes can be used as RF Switches - to turn sections on or off - by passing a live trickle voltage across it to direct RF straight to ground.

Why am I saying this? You encounter a "Howl" sound - tells me there's a feedback issue, or perhaps no feedback - which then indicates several open diodes being used for RF switches in specific modes, are not turning on or off - they're blown open - mixing two signals together - or worse - on all the time, sinking signals that are needed - from getting to the right section to be processed - then filtered out.

1643120246773.gif


In the above, the RF input section uses 1N4148 (PN NOT Schottky) diodes to help protect the input from excessive signals.
1643120980555.png
But there is also another type of diode that when it gets power applied - looks like a variable capacitor. Capacitors across the Band Pass Filter section can be used to tune and shunt some signal away, but not by much - so they added a specially made diode - to help take away entire sections of signal and noise to narrow down the amplifiers ability to select and then amplify the signal embedded in all that noise still left - for the IF section to process.

These are Varactors - they act like tunable filters arranged like they are above as a tunable trap - apply a small voltage and the diode then turns into a capacitor - allowing RF to be SHUNTED across it - to varying degrees of power dissipation - like the RF switch the typical PN diode is used for in other sections.

But in this application - the Varactor changes the appearance of bandwidth by tuneability for the signals going thru this section. IT acts like a broad banded Band-Pass Filter (which this is) but has variable attenuation by apply a voltage to it on top of the ability to reduce ripple effects from the noise arriving thru the signals you're trying to tune for. The section remains LIVE having power passing thru it, to wash away signals not able to be fully passed thru this filter section - like running water to rinse away debris in a sink, same concept can be applied here to remove other out of band noise that would otherwise drown out the ability of this section even discern the correct section of bandwidth.

Now, the last one gets' a little bizarre to talk about but is used to effectively not just rinse the sink but wash out everything so it can allow signals from other sections to be processed thru a section - they ISOLATE one sections signals from interfering with another section so this particular section can process the same information from other modes, so it uses SHARED input and output lines.

1643121963150.png
The above example is for RF switches guiding signals across them, to either drown out the output (stop producing) or allow signal to pass across (like D8)

So, you may have to track down ALL those diodes and make sure they are functional - checked both ways - should only work one way - type of check - any opens or show good both ways may need to be replaced.
 
Much of what I read in your posts, suggests that not just a recap - but perhaps some diode checking too...

Why?

Diodes can have a weak current pass thru them, in doing so, passes along a lot of RF power across them.

Diodes can be used as RF Switches - to turn sections on or off - by passing a live trickle voltage across it to direct RF straight to ground.

Why am I saying this? You encounter a "Howl" sound - tells me there's a feedback issue, or perhaps no feedback - which then indicates several open diodes being used for RF switches in specific modes, are not turning on or off - they're blown open - mixing two signals together - or worse - on all the time, sinking signals that are needed - from getting to the right section to be processed - then filtered out.

View attachment 56789


In the above, the RF input section uses 1N4148 (PN NOT Schottky) diodes to help protect the input from excessive signals.
But there is also another type of diode that when it gets power applied - looks like a variable capacitor. Capacitors across the Band Pass Filter section can be used to tune and shunt some signal away, but not by much - so they added a specially made diode - to help take away entire sections of signal and noise to narrow down the amplifiers ability to select and then amplify the signal embedded in all that noise still left - for the IF section to process.

These are Varactors - they act like tunable filters arranged like they are above as a tunable trap - apply a small voltage and the diode then turns into a capacitor - allowing RF to be SHUNTED across it - to varying degrees of power dissipation - like the RF switch the typical PN diode is used for in other sections.

But in this application - the Varactor changes the appearance of bandwidth by tuneability for the signals going thru this section. IT acts like a broad banded Band-Pass Filter (which this is) but has variable attenuation by apply a voltage to it on top of the ability to reduce ripple effects from the noise arriving thru the signals you're trying to tune for. The section remains LIVE having power passing thru it, to wash away signals not able to be fully passed thru this filter section - like running water to rinse away debris in a sink, same concept can be applied here to remove other out of band noise that would otherwise drown out the ability of this section even discern the correct section of bandwidth.

Now, the last one gets' a little bizarre to talk about but is used to effectively not just rinse the sink but wash out everything so it can allow signals from other sections to be processed thru a section - they ISOLATE one sections signals from interfering with another section so this particular section can process the same information from other modes, so it uses SHARED input and output lines.

The above example is for RF switches guiding signals across them, to either drown out the output (stop producing) or allow signal to pass across (like D8)

So, you may have to track down ALL those diodes and make sure they are functional - checked both ways - should only work one way - type of check - any opens or show good both ways may need to be replaced.


Thank you for this. I am starting to understand how it each piece is
Much of what I read in your posts, suggests that not just a recap - but perhaps some diode checking too...

Why?

Diodes can have a weak current pass thru them, in doing so, passes along a lot of RF power across them.

Diodes can be used as RF Switches - to turn sections on or off - by passing a live trickle voltage across it to direct RF straight to ground.

Why am I saying this? You encounter a "Howl" sound - tells me there's a feedback issue, or perhaps no feedback - which then indicates several open diodes being used for RF switches in specific modes, are not turning on or off - they're blown open - mixing two signals together - or worse - on all the time, sinking signals that are needed - from getting to the right section to be processed - then filtered out.

View attachment 56789


In the above, the RF input section uses 1N4148 (PN NOT Schottky) diodes to help protect the input from excessive signals.
But there is also another type of diode that when it gets power applied - looks like a variable capacitor. Capacitors across the Band Pass Filter section can be used to tune and shunt some signal away, but not by much - so they added a specially made diode - to help take away entire sections of signal and noise to narrow down the amplifiers ability to select and then amplify the signal embedded in all that noise still left - for the IF section to process.

These are Varactors - they act like tunable filters arranged like they are above as a tunable trap - apply a small voltage and the diode then turns into a capacitor - allowing RF to be SHUNTED across it - to varying degrees of power dissipation - like the RF switch the typical PN diode is used for in other sections.

But in this application - the Varactor changes the appearance of bandwidth by tuneability for the signals going thru this section. IT acts like a broad banded Band-Pass Filter (which this is) but has variable attenuation by apply a voltage to it on top of the ability to reduce ripple effects from the noise arriving thru the signals you're trying to tune for. The section remains LIVE having power passing thru it, to wash away signals not able to be fully passed thru this filter section - like running water to rinse away debris in a sink, same concept can be applied here to remove other out of band noise that would otherwise drown out the ability of this section even discern the correct section of bandwidth.

Now, the last one gets' a little bizarre to talk about but is used to effectively not just rinse the sink but wash out everything so it can allow signals from other sections to be processed thru a section - they ISOLATE one sections signals from interfering with another section so this particular section can process the same information from other modes, so it uses SHARED input and output lines.

The above example is for RF switches guiding signals across them, to either drown out the output (stop producing) or allow signal to pass across (like D8)

So, you may have to track down ALL those diodes and make sure they are functional - checked both ways - should only work one way - type of check - any opens or show good both ways may need to be replaced.
Thank you for this ! I see it really will come down to the love for the radio and is the time is worth it. Starting to understand why there are not many left as the cheaper price for a new radio and the time on a bench starts to add up !

The howl only happens with tone (possibly overloading tone to a howl, but not with outside signals. Just distorted. In checking these diodes, I see that D1 and D2 here are noted as those MI301 type but rest are in the frontend 1N4148 eqiv. as you stated. I do have low RX pushing a tone to it but RX is great on outside - so I could have multiple issues going on. Did the cold solder checks and such for good measure.

Would it be beneficial go back to the diodes in the AGC and verify those diodes first ? (someone told me they were D24,D25,D23,D13) with DMM and work forward to the D2/D1 stage as possible separate but together issues ? Overload is constant between AM/SSB, at least.

Should the diode testing be done in circuit with or without power applied? I know that I saw opinions on the use of diode check mode vs. pulling and using both ohm setting and diode test for shorts and if the diodes are in parallel in opposite directions in circuit could give a false reading. What would be the best way to check? Thanks again, Andy. I have some things to check !
 
When you have time, I did up some "DIYs for those whom work on radios that are SINGLE-PLY (now before those empty cardboard rolls start getting tossed in my direction...:whistle:) BOARDS that can have a strong light shined thru up from the foil side to illuminate the traces like a mask, so help guide you to finding the right spot to do your test.

Here's a post where I show the shining effects when you need to locate the trace to the part...


It might help if you have something like a Panavise - handy...
1643140754331.png
This would help hold the work while you shine for traces and other issues of embedded dirt, hairs and even solder bridges

if you can set up a means to locate those traces and check from both sides, you're well on your way to repairing this kind of work pretty easily.
 
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When you have time, I did up some "DIYs for those whom work on radios that are SINGLE-PLY (now before those empty cardboard rolls start getting tossed in my direction...:whistle:) BOARDS that can have a strong light shined thru up from the foil side to illuminate the traces like a mask, so help guide you to finding the right spot to do your test.

Here's a post where I show the shining effects when you need to locate the trace to the part...


It might help if you have something like a Panavise - handy...
This would help hold the work while you shine for traces and other issues of embedded dirt, hairs and even solder bridges

if you can set up a means to locate those traces and check from both sides, you're well on your way to repairing this kind of work pretty easily.
Thank you. for this ! This will help a lot ! You have a wealth of knowledge out there on many radios ! No toilet paper rolls from me ! I will make time to continue reading. I am only as smart as the knowledge I know. Always willing to read concepts.

Now, I have got the AR-3500 working "enough" for now. All 3 I have are the same.

Note to others who may have this issue: I isolated leg 14 of IC2 (2902N) will open the squelch. I removed D25 and removed the warble of overload. Still a tad hot, but usable with RF gain at 4 O'clock. This of course isn't the solution to the problem. Radio operates fine if you don't use squelch and don't mind not having the fully AGC working.

Will keep at it after cap changes.
 
Thank you. for this ! This will help a lot ! You have a wealth of knowledge out there on many radios ! No toilet paper rolls from me ! I will make time to continue reading. I am only as smart as the knowledge I know. Always willing to read concepts.

Now, I have got the AR-3500 working "enough" for now. All 3 I have are the same.

Note to others who may have this issue: I isolated leg 14 of IC2 (2902N) will open the squelch. I removed D25 and removed the warble of overload. Still a tad hot, but usable with RF gain at 4 O'clock. This of course isn't the solution to the problem. Radio operates fine if you don't use squelch and don't mind not having the fully AGC working.

Will keep at it after cap changes.

Did you ever narrow this down. I am currently trying to trouble shoot very "hot rx" loud and distorted sound with AM however ssb seems fine. I have to run the rf gain way back or the input signal on AM is very distorted. cap replacement didn't help d1, 2, 3, 4 are all good.
I picked up a left for dead 3500 off ebay and have it almost fully working.
 
Did you ever narrow this down. I am currently trying to trouble shoot very "hot rx" loud and distorted sound with AM however ssb seems fine. I have to run the rf gain way back or the input signal on AM is very distorted. cap replacement didn't help d1, 2, 3, 4 are all good.
I picked up a left for dead 3500 off ebay and have it almost fully working.
I would like to know the answer or trouble shooting tips also
 
I would like to know the answer or trouble shooting tips also
I manipulated whatever sorcery mod this is. I first unsoldered all the caps in this area and the receive overload was gone and rx was working. Then I adjusted to this configuration to get some gain back. I assume this was some factory update but I cant seem to find anything on why this was done. This is likely not the answer but the radio is very useable on am and worked much better then lifting D25.
 

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So I did a full electrolytic replacement, replaced diodes d2,d3,d23 with 1n4148. Replaced D24 with an NTE109. I have NTE 109 and NTE110 and wasn't sure of the best replacement.
Anyway moving along I checked the ceramic disk capacitors in the above section and found the smaller 104 was bad or not a 104. I cant tell if its a 104 or a 3 with a line under it so I replaced it with a 104 as the cap had no other markings. Then I put that aforementioned mod area back to the original configuration.

Radio sounds great!! Furthermore I was feeling adventurous so I added the md-1 and cp-1 boards to the radio. Upon opening the amp section I found the two flyback resistors across the top very dark. They test 15 ohms I assume they are 10 ohm 5 watts but this expected in a 40 year old radio. I will have to order these and replace them but for now its working.

TX and RX are both great and just some small adjustments to the ALC, am power and modulation and I think its a wrap. I have plenty of diode stock and might just replace the glass diodes due to age but need to look more into where to use a NTE109 or. NTE 110

Also it looks like a have a brown wire on the back of the face that I cant seem to find where it goes.

I hope this information can be useful for anyone with similar problems in the future.
 

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1.png is a 3pf NPO. The Underbar under the number indicates read orientation, this side down.
The black top marking on the brown ceramic capacitor (usually under 100pf) indicates it is an NPO (Negative Positive Zero) Meaning its Temp Co is 0 ppm/°C at room temperature. Thus it is suitable for use in circuits where frequency or timing accuracy versus temperature change is critical, such as RF filters, Audio and RF Oscillators and Digital CMOS Crystal oscillators.
 
1.png is a 3pf NPO. The Underbar under the number indicates read orientation, this side down.
The black top marking on the brown ceramic capacitor (usually under 100pf) indicates it is an NPO (Negative Positive Zero) Meaning its Temp Co is 0 ppm/°C at room temperature. Thus it is suitable for use in circuits where frequency or timing accuracy versus temperature change is critical, such as RF filters, Audio and RF Oscillators and Digital CMOS Crystal oscillators.
Thank you for the information. I do indeed get a 4 on my lowest 200pf scale. I will replace the part and retest operation.

UPDATE:
I replaced the 3pf NPO black top and re-tested RX operation and found it to be acceptable but a bit on the high side with a floor noise to signal ratio that was a little to be desired.
I then replaced the 68pf black top with a 82 violet and the receive is now very impressive with a much lower floor noise and great signal ratio. Again, I'm not quite sure what this mod is for but looks to go to a added yellow tuning can on the reverse side. That be as it may, the radio is now performing great and one of the better sounding ssb rx radios in the shack.
 

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My 3500 also has the capacitor "sorcery" lol it has a very hot RX but also very good RX. I do run the RF gain down to around one o'clock and that seems to make the signal to noise ratio very good on mine.
This is good info you guys have sorted on these great old rigs. Mine is still one of the best receiving radios I own.
I'm in need of a CPU for one I have if anyone has one for sale??
 
I do not think that either I have possess this capacitor array. One receives no issues whatsoever. The other hears, but zero white noise so to speak..
 
Here's a pic of the solder side of mine. I took this the day I got the radio. I have often wandered about all the bodged parts on these radios for them still to work as well as they do.
 

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