RCI 69 base

[undertaker]

Just send it to superior CB they are great on ranger radios..,

 

[teddyboy]

Geez man, that is one sorry guy to say the least.

How does a guy like that live with that on his conscience...... Or do folks like that even have a conscience?...


Sure is a purdy station you have there!

The person who did it didnt seem to bothered about it, he lied through his teeth, now i have an RCI69, cost me a small fortune, but its a keeper radio, i will get a new decal for it make it mine, then get a standby radio just in case, that should do me for radios, funny i have said that all through my radio years, it never ends with just a couple, looking at getting an Anytone 6666.

Radios are really expensive these days, for a Cobra 2000 GTL your looking up to two thousand, and everyone is selling as auction and no buy it now, and people are paying silly money for old radios...

 

[Miura]

The person who did it didnt seem to bothered about it, he lied through his teeth, now i have an RCI69, cost me a small fortune, but its a keeper radio, i will get a new decal for it make it mine, then get a standby radio just in case, that should do me for radios, funny i have said that all through my radio years, it never ends with just a couple, looking at getting an Anytone 6666.

Radios are really expensive these days, for a Cobra 2000 GTL your looking up to two thousand, and everyone is selling as auction and no buy it now, and people are paying silly money for old radios...

I know the feeling about spending a fortune. Export radios are never going to be cheap. Although I love my RCI 2995dxcf I have sourced another RCI radio for backup which looks nowhere as good as my base station but has 400W from stock and the goodies from the 2995 (scan, memory, etc). Pretty impressive! It is the 2970N4…history is repeating itself. Back in the 80’s I treated my self with a Colt Excalibur base station and those were bloody expensive back in the days

 

[Enterprise312ok]

Which is why the process to retrim the Finals needs to be done as the first step.

Because of the LACK of a jumper - the current demand and efficiency suffers, so they SOLDERED them with solid wire jumpers for the Finals. they're in your shots above.

You don't need to "unsolder" them, just pull all the other jumpers and set idle current with the timmers - all of them, turned down - you'll need to probe Gate voltage to see which way to trim them,

OR

This is why it matters...
View attachment 44531
This is NOT your board,
Close but no; it's not...
For Demonstration only!
​

If you're knowledgeable about the construction of the trimmers, look at the foil trace underneath the trimmers, it should tell you which side of the fixed part of the pots feed into - and exit from the trimmers either variable and opposite side, or straight fixed to variable - knowing which side - you turn the trimmer the opposite way to force the substrate to maximum resistance across to the wiper (variable)

Once all the trimmers are turned (set) to turn off gate voltages, the idle current for the finals can be set .- simply by keying up the radio and adjust per the test jig of ammeter at the power cord input positive lead and jumper to power connector positive.

The TX mode will draw some current - in mA - you set the Ammeter to measure first at 2A to make sure you don't blow the meters fuse if there is something soldered wrong. Then turn meter to show mA reading to see the initial draw, and you set your Final trimmer to 60 to 85mA above that figure - then once set - you can use the jumper headers of the stages for the rest of the adjustments.

If you trust your work - you can stop here and don't need to reset all the stages mA draws - that is your call.

But I wouldn't - for what ever surge or catastrophic impact caused this, you might want to double check each stages' operation to make sure they didn't, won't, and don't, destroy that work you just did.

Ok so I have figured out for driver bias wich controls both drivers ccw is down, for the finals clockwise is minimum.