There are a lot of "This worked for my buddy's radio" tips out there.
If you track down the trouble to a particular circuit, this kind of method might work.
But removing a part that's perfectly good and installing a replacement just to see what happens introduces a chance for adding a problem the radio didn't have before. The wrong part, or turning it the wrong way, or a tiny sliver of solder that bridges across two adjacent foil pads can create a new problem you didn't have before. It's just a risk, but even a pro will cause this sort of 'oops" from time to time.
Somebody (else) really needs to write up a troubleshooting chart for the PLL in that radio. Just pointing out where you can check for an unlocked PLL would be valuable.
Just changing parts to "see what happens" is called the shotgun approach. If you're really careful you won't create new problems when you find out the part you changed doesn't fix the fault.
I still don't know how to fix this PLL without a decent 'scope.
Or troubleshoot it without one.
73
If you track down the trouble to a particular circuit, this kind of method might work.
But removing a part that's perfectly good and installing a replacement just to see what happens introduces a chance for adding a problem the radio didn't have before. The wrong part, or turning it the wrong way, or a tiny sliver of solder that bridges across two adjacent foil pads can create a new problem you didn't have before. It's just a risk, but even a pro will cause this sort of 'oops" from time to time.
Somebody (else) really needs to write up a troubleshooting chart for the PLL in that radio. Just pointing out where you can check for an unlocked PLL would be valuable.
Just changing parts to "see what happens" is called the shotgun approach. If you're really careful you won't create new problems when you find out the part you changed doesn't fix the fault.
I still don't know how to fix this PLL without a decent 'scope.
Or troubleshoot it without one.
73