If I have a tower or mast on the roof of my house, is it necessary to ground it ? There is about 20 feet distance to my station’s ground rod.
-
You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
Roof mount antenna grounding
- Thread starter Alexis Mercado
- Start date
NEC Article 810 Article 810 applies to radio and television receiving equipment and amateur and citizen band transmitters and receivers as well as wire, multi-element, vertical rod and dish antennas and the wiring and cabling for powering and controlling tower- and mast-mounted equipment (for example, preamplifiers and rotators).
https://www.mikeholt.com/download.php?file=PDF/Radio_and_Television_2014NEC.pdf
It should be noted, this type of grounding methods for towers, masts, your station are REQUIRED by USA Electric Codes.
Your Homeowners and or Renters insurance requires this also, if these steps are not done, they can or will DENY CLAIMS for any damage to the home or equipment.
Just FYI
All the Best
Gary
Thanks guy for the info provided.
But what about that if the ground wire from the roof is so long that it can act as as an unground and act as part of the antenna on the roof creating RFI issues ?
But what about that if the ground wire from the roof is so long that it can act as as an unground and act as part of the antenna on the roof creating RFI issues ?
That may be and issue...However still must be grounded in accordance to Fire Code.
I would suggest wire no smaller than #6 gauge copper...I would use larger or large 1 inch wide/thick copper strip or braid...Just me
All the Best
Gary
PS: The smallest wire I have used on my tower and station grounding #4 wielding cable.
I would suggest wire no smaller than #6 gauge copper...I would use larger or large 1 inch wide/thick copper strip or braid...Just me
All the Best
Gary
PS: The smallest wire I have used on my tower and station grounding #4 wielding cable.
Look at it this way: If not grounded correctly and you do have even a strike close by...and it "charges" your antenna system.
Where will that charge go?
Down your coax to your equipment and/or thru the roof of your home?
Where will that charge go?
Down your coax to your equipment and/or thru the roof of your home?
If you are concerned about this you can use ferrite beads as an RF choke on said wire, just like you can use said beads with coax. That being said, I would put an insulator in between the beads and the wire, such as shrink tubing, as said beads are somewhat conductive. I would also put a cover over said ferrite beads for weather protection, again shrink tubing works well here.
The DB
Last edited:
I have only had 1 setup like this, and ended up having to isolate my station power ground to eliminate the ground loop. Obviously bonding the power ground to the shack entrance ground would keep ground loops relatively short, I just wonder how a professional would do it.
I saw a bob heil video where he said to buy a ton of the 3 to 2 prong adapters and isolate every power ground in the station. That fixed my problems, but I doubt it is code compliant.
Professional:
I for years avoided the tie between my station grounding system and the House Electrical ground system. I knew from experience it would be a noise generator. Yes it was, raised my threshold on some bands. I was able to reduce that increase in "ambient" noise threshold when I installed a tail cabinet in the shack.I pulled a complete 60 amp 4 wire system to the shack.
I installed the panel where it was only about 5 feet from the outgoing 4/0 wielding cable that goes from bench to the first ground rod. I then connected the panel ground to that bonding jumper.
This dropped the the noise increase about 75%. I still get garbage from the washer/dryer about 20 ft. away, but it killed all the computer/TV and other appliance noise from the house.
I, like you was getting loops thru the normal house wiring, but most of the high level garbage was coming from all the 2 wire devices in the house.(lamps/tv's/computer supplies/Cell phone chargers) etc...
Thus having the shack as a separate 240/120 volt 60 amp/ 4 wire branch circuit that connects to my main panel which is only about 4 ft. from the main bonding electrode...
Helps a Bunch!!!!
338: Yes lifting the grounds, would be construed as an issue "Technically".
However the ground lifting adaptors, the better ones have a "tab" on them where you can attach a ground lead and run those back to your station ground.
This would help eliminate the "floating" equipment ground issue.
Again "Technically" not advised or recommended.
The real issue with those is if you have a device that has a 3 wire cord, and you lift and float that ground, you could experience a fault and suddenly you have a HOT Chassis/cabinet etc.
This may never be apparent to you, until you got between that device and your station ground!!!! Ouch!
Reminds me of the old days, where you don't touch the refrigerator and the stove at the same time! The simple fix back before the mandated 3 wire home branch circuit, was to "flip" one of those devices in the outlet.
Damn really showing my age now!!!!
All the Best
Gary
With the station you describe with the sub panel, there are still ground loops when using a 3 wire plug and a station ground. Lifting the ground plug wouldn't float the ground because you have your station ground serving the same purpose.Professional:
I pulled a complete 60 amp 4 wire system to the shack.
I installed the panel where it was only about 5 feet from the outgoing 4/0 wielding cable that goes from bench to the first ground rod. I then connected the panel ground to that bonding jumper.
This dropped the the noise increase about 75%. I still get garbage from the washer/dryer about 20 ft. away, but it killed all the computer/TV and other appliance noise from the house.
I, like you was getting loops thru the normal house wiring, but most of the high level garbage was coming from all the 2 wire devices in the house.(lamps/tv's/computer supplies/Cell phone chargers) etc...
Thus having the shack as a separate 240/120 volt 60 amp/ 4 wire branch circuit that connects to my main panel which is only about 4 ft. from the main bonding electrode...
Helps a Bunch!!!!
338: Yes lifting the grounds, would be construed as an issue "Technically".
However the ground lifting adaptors, the better ones have a "tab" on them where you can attach a ground lead and run those back to your station ground.
This would help eliminate the "floating" equipment ground issue.
Again "Technically" not advised or recommended.
The real issue with those is if you have a device that has a 3 wire cord, and you lift and float that ground, you could experience a fault and suddenly you have a HOT Chassis/cabinet etc.
This may never be apparent to you, until you got between that device and your station ground!!!! Ouch!
Reminds me of the old days, where you don't touch the refrigerator and the stove at the same time! The simple fix back before the mandated 3 wire home branch circuit, was to "flip" one of those devices in the outlet.
Damn really showing my age now!!!!
All the Best
Gary
When I had ground loop problems (I think it was mic hum, but I don't recall exactly) it was in an rv and I only had 1 circuit for the station and both my power and station ground was bonded at the entrance, much like yours. The length of the power cord plus 8' to the ground rod bonding point was enough of a ground loop to cause problems.
I don't really want to start on a ground plan until I have a perfect plan, yet without lifting the ground at all plugs (and using station ground instead) I can't find a perfect solution. Lifting the ground doesn't meet code and that means I cannot have a perfect ground system and be code compliant. The nec is clear about it not being concerned with the performance of anything, only safety. Apparently I can have good or "safe", but only one.
Is the ground you pulled for your subpanel the only bonding between your service panel ground and station ground rod?
Yes" #6 Copper fine strand about 35 ft long in Steel Conduit.
My station ground consists of 5 ground rods...First one like 6 feet from bench 4/0 wielding cable...2 more base of the tower/6 feet from first...then 1 more about 8 feet East and West from the tower...all connected with either 2/0 or 1/0 wielding cable using compression lugs.
I'm still curious about your noise reduction with the sub panel. Unless the noise was coming from appliances on the same circuit, I dont see a difference with the sub panel. All of your grounds are still tied together at the service entrance. Any noise on any ground (edit: or the neutral) in the entire house would still run to the service entrance, then back to your sub panel and into your station. At least that's how it seems to me. Any thoughts on this?Yes" #6 Copper fine strand about 35 ft long in Steel Conduit.
My station ground consists of 5 ground rods...First one like 6 feet from bench 4/0 wielding cable...2 more base of the tower/6 feet from first...then 1 more about 8 feet East and West from the tower...all connected with either 2/0 or 1/0 wielding cable using compression lugs.
I'm also curious what your bench top is made of, it looks good.
Last edited:
- No one is chatting at the moment.