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Should I add a grounding strap to the antenna mount.

You’ll be VERY glad you took a few pains once you find out how good that McKinley is.

“Noise” will be a separate subject past initial installation. Consider it as on-the-job. We ALL have some noise issues. Vehicle or local conditions.

Bonding goes quick with Dremel and screwgun. All else right at hand.

Applegate says it takes HIM more than two full days to do an install. And he wrote the book.

Just take it in steps.

.
 
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The other thing I seem to see confusing information on is where an antenna should be mounted. What is considered optimal and what makes it so?

That's simple.

1) As high as possible above the ground to reduce ground (as in the planet earth) losses. Doubling the height can give you as much as 6dB gain.
2) With as much horizontal metal as possible directly under the antenna so we maximise as much of the vehicle as we can and have current flowing through an efficient conductor rather than the lossy ground (as in the earth) below it so we can have more RF flowing through the antenna which means a stronger signal.
3) As near to the middle of 2 as possible to make it as omnidirectional as you can.

If you want to see how important a good RF ground is do the following experiment which will allow you to see it.

Get an incandescent bulb, put it in a table lamp with a long mains lead. Disconnect the "negative" wire in the mains plug, plug it into the wall and turn it on. It will still light up because there's a limited source and return for electrons to flow (the mains cable) but it will only light very dimly. An antenna with a poor RF ground is the radio equivalent of that bulb, both on transmit and receive, for exactly the same reason.
 
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That's simple.

1) As high as possible above the ground to reduce ground (as in the planet earth) losses. Doubling the height can give you as much as 6dB gain.
2) With as much horizontal metal as possible directly under the antenna.
3) As near to the middle of 2 as possible to make it as omnidirectional as you can.

Right now it's as high as I can get it with out having damage done from low hanging branches and stuff like that.
Will grounding everything like it's been suggested make it seem like the rack is part of the vehicle?
I've also posted a question on FordTruckEnthusiasts.com to see if anyone has mounted a 102" whip. So far nobody has chimed up and other posts I've seen people have done the magnet underside of the roof, the stake pocket mounts and the bracket off the front fender. The problem is no one on that forum is "into" radios like you guys are so nobody is understanding my concerns.
 
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Getting the rack to be really grounded with the vehicle can be a pain in the arse.
I had a few ham friend mount a few antennas on the rack of his GMC. Bonded various places and had problems. Finally got it done to bad swr when it went thru heavy rain storms.
 
Slowmover,
In between contractors coming into the job site I was looking at the bed of my truck. My company got hired to provide covid screeners and safety people for some new Amazon warehouses. But anyways back to the point......
I'll be honest I've always loved the big whip antennas but never could justify one. So ever since you suggested it I've been thinking about how to get one mounted and working properly. So this morning I was looking at the bed to see where an eight foot antenna would mount and I saw this,
20200709_055426.jpg
The four threaded holes on the inside of the bed. I have them at each corner on each side of the bed. I could easily install a steel plate with standoffs, a ball mount from breedlove and make sure its grounded. It has that access plate right next to it so running coax would be easy.
What are your thoughts about a mount like that?
 
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That's simple.

1) As high as possible above the ground to reduce ground (as in the planet earth) losses. Doubling the height can give you as much as 6dB gain.
2) With as much horizontal metal as possible directly under the antenna so we maximise as much of the vehicle as we can and have current flowing through an efficient conductor rather than the lossy ground (as in the earth) below it so we can have more RF flowing through the antenna which means a stronger signal.
3) As near to the middle of 2 as possible to make it as omnidirectional as you can.

Slowmover,
In between contractors coming into the job site I was looking at the bed of my truck. My company got hired to provide covid screeners and safety people for some new Amazon warehouses. But anyways back to the point......
I'll be honest I've always loved the big whip antennas but never could justify one. So ever since you suggested it I've been thinking about how to get one mounted and working properly. So this morning I was looking at the bed to see where an eight foot antenna would mount and I saw this,
View attachment 38733
The four threaded holes on the inside of the bed. I have them at each corner on each side of the bed. I could easily install a steel plate with standoffs, a ball mount from breedlove and make sure its grounded. It has that access plate right next to it so running coax would be easy.
What are your thoughts about a mount like that?


I referenced the earlier post as it’s so well-said. The X and the Y.

1). I haven’t used a ball-Mount in 20-years. Didn’t test past SWR, but it sure worked on the port rear fender of a now ancient Chrysler.

2). If we look at “inside” versus “outside” the fender you’ve proposed, it’s closer to vehicle center and over the bed.

3). Didn’t you make mention of a bed cover? Related is using the bed for gear & supplies. That’d be my concern for long-term, that I’d wind up with something crowding the antenna.

4). Frankly, I’d consider using the place indicated to make an entry cover plate for a ball mount to the outside. Id want to be able to install a CMC choke/ RF balun. Make easy any long-term inspections or tests.

A). The X-Y coordinates of ideal versus practical make it seem okay.

B). My rule of thumb for my pickup is that any changes from stock condition made NOT affect its ability to do work. That’s a very long list of potential conflicts.

Thus

As something in the truck bed could damage the antenna & mount — as well as affect its performance — I wouldn’t. I’d go outside with interior access plate.

Stake-pocket Mount is sure a lot easier. Make you comfortable with a more difficult & expensive mount if it works as you want (practicality).

See thread adventures on similar by contributor Nick hatz who just finished a 102 install on a pickup.

You two are a couple months apart in age and started the same thread (almost) a few days orcweeks apart Must be in the water for being 42.

So I’ll claim that I did my 102” whip when I was 42.

.

Hit Expand.

The answer to The Meaning of Life, the Universe, and everything, is: 42

.
 
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So I see what is being said about items in the bed doing damage. So I went back to breedlove's website and was looking at the stake pocket mounts again. I got to thinking that his mounts basically operate like the bracket under the end of my rails do, why cant I just use his bracket and use it to hold the antenna and the rail down at the same time. It just so happens that the tailgate end is a little loose so I was able to slide it over to get a picture.

20200709_074035.jpg
And this is the mount I was thinking of using,

Screenshot_20200709-074007_Chrome.jpg
Would that work having the arm of the mount facing inside of the bed? And the bed cover is a thought, not a necessity so I have no issues using the bed.
 
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That you are spending the brainpower (time) is what I’d congratulate.

I may know little (true), but I know I don’t have to re-invent the wheel (with a pickup).

Please see the complete hatz threads as convenient.

.
 
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That you are spending the brainpower (time) is what I’d congratulate.
Please see the complete hatz threads as convenient.

.
I did read them. Some of it is more technical then I understand right now. His mount that he used won't work because of my bed rails. However that mount I posted above will, at least the one for the camper top will because of the recessed screw heads.
rs=w_1800,h_1800.jpeg
Using that method I can still have the rail sit "flat" and have an antenna mount.
 
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For a guy said he couldn’t drive a manual transmission at thread opening (“can I just graunch the shifts?”), looks to me like you found the attitude adjustment needed, and are using tach & timing to become proficient in working the clutch.

I’d sure try it (mount pictured).

Every step I take — I remind myself — may not mean success (as I FIRST defined that word regarding this set of problems), it’s now broader so as to get a better picture.

Yes/No is fine. When I get to that point. There’s a bunch of maybes to wade through first.

My recommendation is as nothing compared to your sense of what you are THEN willing to do (once mount chosen & located on vehicle).

IOW, there’s no reason it can’t be the one.

Willingness to stay at it (is the thing). You’ve defined one problem-solution.

Now there are others. Little ones that add up

Mount - and mount location — were the big ones.

.
 
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