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Sidewinder 350 / sd1076 transistors
- Thread starter DR456
- Start date
The logo "SSS" on the transistors is the manufacturer. Can't even remember the name it stood for, Solid State Systems, or something like that. Wikipedia never heard of them.
They got bought in the early 80s, but I can't remember by whom. S-T Semi, who still uses the "SD" prefix for RF transistors doesn't make that number now.
The online sources only show this number indirectly as a cross reference, but no data for it.
Don't ever remember seeing any info for a Hayden amplifier.
It's an orphan.
73
They got bought in the early 80s, but I can't remember by whom. S-T Semi, who still uses the "SD" prefix for RF transistors doesn't make that number now.
The online sources only show this number indirectly as a cross reference, but no data for it.
Don't ever remember seeing any info for a Hayden amplifier.
It's an orphan.
73
Hey Nomad. I found a broken wire at the hi / low switch resistor. Replaced the led's. Fired her up 2 watts swinging 18 pep going in. 50 watt dead key swinging 350 pep out. They call it a 350. I guess she's working properly. Open to suggestions on how many watts it should do.
70 watt RF output @ 5 watt RF input per transistor. Driving it at 100% modulation would work much nicer than 300% though.
The "Test" position is the highest wattage choice on that knob. The lower-power selections place resistors between the radio's drive power and the amplifier's input circuit. This reduces the drive power reaching the amplifier transistors. If all the lower-power positions of that knob are dead, that means someone drove it with excessive drive power. This burns out those resistors, and no power can pass through them to reach the input circuit. The "Test" position bypasses the burned resistors.
Good chance if you look behind the front panel at the rear of that selector switch you'll see visibly burned parts attached to it.
Getting hot when it should be in receive mode raises one question. Can the radio receive normally with this amplifier in line? If not, the keying circuit has been damaged by excess drive and the amplifier is activating the relay all the time. If the relay has a transparent cover you can watch the mechanism while turning the power on and off. If you see it move when the power is applied, that's your problem. The keying circuit.
If the relay does NOT engage when the power is turned on, there is a failure in the circuit that turns on the operating bias to the RF transistors.
73
Good chance if you look behind the front panel at the rear of that selector switch you'll see visibly burned parts attached to it.
Getting hot when it should be in receive mode raises one question. Can the radio receive normally with this amplifier in line? If not, the keying circuit has been damaged by excess drive and the amplifier is activating the relay all the time. If the relay has a transparent cover you can watch the mechanism while turning the power on and off. If you see it move when the power is applied, that's your problem. The keying circuit.
If the relay does NOT engage when the power is turned on, there is a failure in the circuit that turns on the operating bias to the RF transistors.
73
Yes the radio works good when amp is in line. The preamp also doesn't work. When you turn the preamp on it drops the signals down to almost nothing. There were some cold soldier joints. There was also a burnt and one unhooked resistor behind the power switch. Had a local guy here that plays around with stuff . He told me he replaced that burnt and unhooked part. And soldier the part where the soldier was cracked loose. People says it sounds good on TEST. I just don't like the ideal of it laying in the floor getting real hot while I'm not talking on it. You think it's worth fixing or junk box?