Sirio Preformer 5000 Magnet Mount Antenna

[222DBFL]

Same here. God bless her. She has fought a long fight it appears and is still here. That in itself is amazing. My ex girlfriends mother just passed away from kidney failure about a year ago after a long battle with having to go to dialysis about 4 times a week. Not what you want to see happen to people, no matter what color, race, religion, or beliefs. She was a good woman!! I wish nothing but the best for you and your wife and hopefully she will keep on trucking for a lot longer. May God be with you sir!! I know it's not easy dealing with all of it that is for sure! Takes a hell of a man to stick around, and much props for that as well!! Anyways, again, may God Bless you and yours and keep positive!!
Sean.

 

[fourstringburn]

I'm here to learn

A shunt coil is nothing more than 14 or 12 gauge enameled wire with the enameled scraped off both ends and 2 terminal rings soldered on each end then coiled up tight around a spark plug or similar size pipe threads for the coil form then 1 ring attached to the Hot side and the other to the Ground side of the antenna at the feed point.

It was years ago when I made one so I don't remember how many turns it was but start off with seven turns. Use an antenna analyzer and check impedance. Start by minimally stretching the coil and take note if the values are increasing or decreasing. If the impedance is too high to start off with, take some turns out of the coil and start again.

As I stated in the original thread on how to do make a shunt coil, It's not going to make a big difference on your antenna performance but it is for being somewhat of a perfectionist if you want to see an Ideal 50 ohm reading on your anaylzer and a lower SWR for your 1/4 wave whip and it's also a good learning experience.

Below is a pic showing a homebrew 75 meter antenna with a shunt coil and you can see how it is attached to the Hot side and the Ground side. A 75 meter antenna can have a very low feed point impedance ( around 10 to 15 ohms depending on main loading coil design ) so a longer shunt coil with more turns is necessary here. An 11 meter 1/4 wave antenna is closer to 50 ohms so less coil turns will be used.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

Same here. God bless her. She has fought a long fight it appears and is still here. That in itself is amazing. My ex girlfriends mother just passed away from kidney failure about a year ago after a long battle with having to go to dialysis about 4 times a week. Not what you want to see happen to people, no matter what color, race, religion, or beliefs. She was a good woman!! I wish nothing but the best for you and your wife and hopefully she will keep on trucking for a lot longer. May God be with you sir!! I know it's not easy dealing with all of it that is for sure! Takes a hell of a man to stick around, and much props for that as well!! Anyways, again, may God Bless you and yours and keep positive!!
Sean.

My wife thanks you every much!, I thank you too.
My wife went to In center Dialysis for years, then we when, and I was trained to run a Dialysis Unit, and we did "Home Hemo-Dialysis. We would run 5 times a week for 1 1/2 hours. Doing Dialysis like that, on Hemo is easier on the patient (wife), as you pull less fluid per run it also is easier on the Heart as well.
It pisses me off when I see the new, and incompetent nursing staff try to tell my wife "whats up", I have even on more then100 trips to the E.R. over the years had to start my wifes I.V. or draw labs as the Techs, and E.R. nursing staff could not. You know Your family is your best advocate, never let a nurse, Tech, anyone, stick you more than one time.
Alway ask for I.V. Therapy!
You are ALLWAYS right, so keep pounding on them. You will get the best care that way.
Sorry........
We thank you for your fine words. 73

 

[Mudduckmobile]

A shunt coil is nothing more than 14 or 12 gauge enameled wire with the enameled scraped off both ends and 2 terminal rings soldered on each end then coiled up tight around a spark plug or similar size pipe threads for the coil form then 1 ring attached to the Hot side and the other to the Ground side of the antenna at the feed point.

It was years ago when I made one so I don't remember how many turns it was but start off with seven turns. Use an antenna analyzer and check impedance. Start by minimally stretching the coil and take note if the values are increasing or decreasing. If the impedance is too high to start off with, take some turns out of the coil and start again.

As I stated in the original thread on how to do make a shunt coil, It's not going to make a big difference on your antenna performance but it is for being somewhat of a perfectionist if you want to see an Ideal 50 ohm reading on your anaylzer and a lower SWR for your 1/4 wave whip and it's also a good learning experience.

Below is a pic showing a homebrew 75 meter antenna with a shunt coil and you can see how it is attached to the Hot side and the Ground side. A 75 meter antenna can have a very low feed point impedance ( around 10 to 15 ohms depending on main loading coil design ) so a longer shunt coil with more turns is necessary here. An 11 meter 1/4 wave antenna is closer to 50 ohms so less coil turns will be used.

Yes, I made on from 12ga. 7 turns on my 102 whip set up for 11 meter.
Does the "matching box" , say MFJ 974 hb, work in the same way? And to use the same antenna on outer bands could the matching box be used to Tighten up things after you have tuned as best you can first? Or can I use a "Door knob" cap, or other type of adjustable cap?

 

[fourstringburn]

I'm not sure what you were asking previously or which "match box" you are referring to but a good multi-tap inductive match box would be like this one. I have used this on a my screwdriver antenna at the antenna feed point to match all the bands 10- thru-80 meters. Internally this is similar to using a shunt coil only with multiple tap points since different bands tend to require more or less inductive values whereas a shunt coils are compromises on some bands while being very good on others.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

I'm not sure what you were asking previously or which "match box" you are referring to but a good multi-tap inductive match box would be like this one. I have used this on a my screwdriver antenna at the antenna feed point to match all the bands 10- thru-80 meters. Internally this is similar to using a shunt coil only with multiple tap points since different bands tend to require more or less inductive values whereas a shunt coils are compromises on some bands while being very good on others.

Yes thank you, this is what I was asking about. It sounds to me that using this "RF Impedance Transformer would be better than a coil for multi band use. I hope I got that right, and would this MFJ 907 work best at the antenna or at the radio, in a mobile application?

 

[fourstringburn]

Yes, No, and Maybe, Depending on what antenna you are using.

For a screwdriver antenna, yes.
For a 102 whip on 10,11,12 meters, yes
Other bands with a whip, NO! Only a remote tuner like we talked about previously. I wouldn't put those kind of voltages induced from using a short whip on lower bands below 12 meters on this match box.

I experimented using this box with screwdriver antennas both at the antenna feed point and inside the cab by the radio and the difference was very significant. In the cab I couldn't get hardly any match at all and the readings were far different than using this box at the antenna feed point which matched up nicely on every band. When matching devices like these are used at the feed point, they become part of the antenna system sort of speak becoming an L network providing the necessary inductance to bring a less than 50 ohm feed point up to 50 ohms or close to it.

If you are deciding on using a screwdriver antenna like the Little Tarheel HP which needs antenna matching, You can use a UNUN matching transformer made by DX engineering. This is what I use now.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-mm-1

This transformer box doesn't require any switching and works on all HF bands enclosed in a weatherproof box and again it must install at the antenna feed point. It has 3 antenna ports. 1 is for coax line in from radio the other 2 are antenna outs for 60 thru 160 meter bands and the other port covers 10 thru 40 meters. So coax re-patching will required if you are using a larger screwdriver antenna. When I was using a large screwdriver antenna, I modified this box with a high current toggle switch for the 2 ports so I didn't have to re-patch for the bands below 40 meters. I eventually was going to rig up a relay switch and run it inside the cab for even better convenience.

Like most DX engineering products, they aren't cheap, but are better in quality than MFJ.

So it still comes down to what type of mobile antenna you are settling on and what maybe ideal for you.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

Yes, No, and Maybe, Depending on what antenna you are using.

For a screwdriver antenna, yes.
For a 102 whip on 10,11,12 meters, yes
Other bands with a whip, NO! Only a remote tuner like we talked about previously. I wouldn't put those kind of voltages induced from using a short whip on lower bands below 12 meters on this match box.

I experimented using this box with screwdriver antennas both at the antenna feed point and inside the cab by the radio and the difference was very significant. In the cab I couldn't get hardly any match at all and the readings were far different than using this box at the antenna feed point which matched up nicely on every band. When matching devices like these are used at the feed point, they become part of the antenna system sort of speak becoming an L network providing the necessary inductance to bring a less than 50 ohm feed point up to 50 ohms or close to it.

If you are deciding on using a screwdriver antenna like the Little Tarheel HP which needs antenna matching, You can use a UNUN matching transformer made by DX engineering. This is what I use now.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-mm-1

This transformer box doesn't require any switching and works on all HF bands enclosed in a weatherproof box and again it must install at the antenna feed point. It has 3 antenna ports. 1 is for coax line in from radio the other 2 are antenna outs for 60 thru 160 meter bands and the other port covers 10 thru 40 meters. So coax re-patching will required if you are using a larger screwdriver antenna. When I was using a large screwdriver antenna, I modified this box with a high current toggle switch for the 2 ports so I didn't have to re-patch for the bands below 40 meters. I eventually was going to rig up a relay switch and run it inside the cab for even better convenience.

Like most DX engineering products, they aren't cheap, but are better in quality than MFJ.

So it still comes down to what type of mobile antenna you are settling on and what maybe ideal for you.

Thank you for your answer.
I see the point on having the "Box" at the antenna so you don't make an L network by having the "box" at the radio. I kind of thought that at well....like checking swr at the antenna over at the radio, that coax from the radio to the antenna is now part of the antenna.
If I pass the Gen. I will get a Lil Tarheel, and a remote tuner at the antenna, and it looks like I will need this auto Transformer as well. I can also place the amp in the tool box as well to get at as close to the antenna. I will change my mount to a "tool box" mount and set it back of my cab about 18in.
My bed,cab frame, pipes, motor mounts, and cab to bed are all bonded with 1in.
copper bonding straps. I should have more strapping soon so I can do my motor to frame and body.
And I really need to try a cap hat too. do you have a part #?
Thank you once more for your time. You know I have not found any Elmer's around here and I find this site to be about the best for real answers, and a good time.

Yes, No, and Maybe, Depending on what antenna you are using.

For a screwdriver antenna, yes.
For a 102 whip on 10,11,12 meters, yes
Other bands with a whip, NO! Only a remote tuner like we talked about previously. I wouldn't put those kind of voltages induced from using a short whip on lower bands below 12 meters on this match box.

I experimented using this box with screwdriver antennas both at the antenna feed point and inside the cab by the radio and the difference was very significant. In the cab I couldn't get hardly any match at all and the readings were far different than using this box at the antenna feed point which matched up nicely on every band. When matching devices like these are used at the feed point, they become part of the antenna system sort of speak becoming an L network providing the necessary inductance to bring a less than 50 ohm feed point up to 50 ohms or close to it.

If you are deciding on using a screwdriver antenna like the Little Tarheel HP which needs antenna matching, You can use a UNUN matching transformer made by DX engineering. This is what I use now.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-mm-1

This transformer box doesn't require any switching and works on all HF bands enclosed in a weatherproof box and again it must install at the antenna feed point. It has 3 antenna ports. 1 is for coax line in from radio the other 2 are antenna outs for 60 thru 160 meter bands and the other port covers 10 thru 40 meters. So coax re-patching will required if you are using a larger screwdriver antenna. When I was using a large screwdriver antenna, I modified this box with a high current toggle switch for the 2 ports so I didn't have to re-patch for the bands below 40 meters. I eventually was going to rig up a relay switch and run it inside the cab for even better convenience.

Like most DX engineering products, they aren't cheap, but are better in quality than MFJ.

So it still comes down to what type of mobile antenna you are settling on and what maybe ideal for you.

 

[fourstringburn]

Sounds like you have bonded your vehicle just fine.

Since you are considering the Little Tarheel, remember the HP model is rated for 500 watts and covers 6 thru 40 meters or 10 thru 60 meters with a cap hat while the Little Tarheel 2 covers 10 thru 80 but doesn't need any shunt coils or transformer boxes and it can't be run with an amp. The 80 meter version uses thin wires for the inner coil and isn't really ideal for 80 meters anyway but it will get you there. This model has all the inductance in the inner coil so it doesn't need any matching which isn't a good thing except for plug and play guys who just want something easy that will work. The HP model is better for 40 meters and above.

If you recall, with the 17 ft. telescoping whip I can get 80 meters on the HP model when I'm stationary which is fine since I don't get on the band much anyway.

One last thing I will remind you of about the caphat is it is a rigid mast and one good hit can destroy your antenna and using a spring didn't work for me with the wind loading at highway speeds making it flop around too much.

Considering your mounting plans on your toolbox, I think you are good since the top of the antenna body will be just above the cab which is want you want anyway. The caphat kit from DX engineering has a 22 inch mast and on 40 meters, it will raise up another 4 1/2 inches more. So I would say with the caphat, it would be about 2 1/2 ft. above your cab on 10 meters and close to 3 ft. on 40 meters. Normal city driving shouldn't be a problem but garage parking and off roading thru the woods, you may want to put a quick disconnect on the cap hat mast.

Here is a link for the DX engineering cap hat system. This is the kit which contains all the parts necessary which is a little more than buying the Hub and rods and masts and other parts separately.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-hr-2p

The main reason why I chose Tarheel antennas is because not only are their antennas good, but they have the best selection of stainless steel mounts with all kinds of variations compared to the other screwdriver manufactures.

Take a look at their website and look at mounts and you will see all kinds of simple mast mounts, to lift and lay mounts in both manual and motorized versions. They are not cheap, but seem to be well made and designed.

Good luck on passing your General and I hope you do it soon!

 

[222DBFL]

Also get a good tuner box to go with the setup as the one that comes with the antenna itself is rather a PITA to work. That is not to say it doesn't work, just hard to to driving down the road!! The switch doesn't stop immediately and you'll end up passing where you need to be most of the time from the little bit of experience I've had with the one I helped install. Spend the money once and do it right!! It will be well worth it in the end! JMHO.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

Sounds like you have bonded your vehicle just fine.

Since you are considering the Little Tarheel, remember the HP model is rated for 500 watts and covers 6 thru 40 meters or 10 thru 60 meters with a cap hat while the Little Tarheel 2 covers 10 thru 80 but doesn't need any shunt coils or transformer boxes and it can't be run with an amp. The 80 meter version uses thin wires for the inner coil and isn't really ideal for 80 meters anyway but it will get you there. This model has all the inductance in the inner coil so it doesn't need any matching which isn't a good thing except for plug and play guys who just want something easy that will work. The HP model is better for 40 meters and above.

If you recall, with the 17 ft. telescoping whip I can get 80 meters on the HP model when I'm stationary which is fine since I don't get on the band much anyway.

One last thing I will remind you of about the caphat is it is a rigid mast and one good hit can destroy your antenna and using a spring didn't work for me with the wind loading at highway speeds making it flop around too much.

Considering your mounting plans on your toolbox, I think you are good since the top of the antenna body will be just above the cab which is want you want anyway. The caphat kit from DX engineering has a 22 inch mast and on 40 meters, it will raise up another 4 1/2 inches more. So I would say with the caphat, it would be about 2 1/2 ft. above your cab on 10 meters and close to 3 ft. on 40 meters. Normal city driving shouldn't be a problem but garage parking and off roading thru the woods, you may want to put a quick disconnect on the cap hat mast.

Here is a link for the DX engineering cap hat system. This is the kit which contains all the parts necessary which is a little more than buying the Hub and rods and masts and other parts separately.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-hr-2p

The main reason why I chose Tarheel antennas is because not only are their antennas good, but they have the best selection of stainless steel mounts with all kinds of variations compared to the other screwdriver manufactures.

Take a look at their website and look at mounts and you will see all kinds of simple mast mounts, to lift and lay mounts in both manual and motorized versions. They are not cheap, but seem to be well made and designed.

Good luck on passing your General and I hope you do it soon!

Thank you for the good info. and the link.
When using the cap hat from DX eng. how do you know which set of Rods to use or is that covered in there data sheets when you get the cap hat?
Oh, and yes I would need to get the HP Tarheel as an amp will come in to play, maybe not at first but I hope soon after...
You have been a great help. I'm going to call DX eng. at some point in my research as well for info.
Thank you for your time!
Have a good day, be safe out there.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

Also get a good tuner box to go with the setup as the one that comes with the antenna itself is rather a PITA to work. That is not to say it doesn't work, just hard to to driving down the road!! The switch doesn't stop immediately and you'll end up passing where you need to be most of the time from the little bit of experience I've had with the one I helped install. Spend the money once and do it right!! It will be well worth it in the end! JMHO.

Do you have one that you like? I really know what you mean about Spending once, I wish I had 1/2 my money back from My wrongful spending.
Thank you for your help.
Have a good day.

 

[fourstringburn]

Spend the money once and do it right!!

Thank you for the good info. and the link.
When using the cap hat from DX eng. how do you know which set of Rods to use or is that covered in there data sheets when you get the cap hat?
Oh, and yes I would need to get the HP Tarheel as an amp will come in to play, maybe not at first but I hope soon after...
You have been a great help. I'm going to call DX eng. at some point in my research as well for info.
Thank you for your time!
Have a good day, be safe out there.

Think of the caphat like lengthening the whip. The longer you go the more upper bands you lose but you start gaining better effiency on the other bands.

You will lose 6 meters anyway(no big loss I think) so Ideally you probably want to keep 10 meters tuned with minimal coil left.

I use three 24 inch rods fed thru the hub holes centered out making a 6 radial cap hat 24 inches in diameter. This tunes 10 meters with only a couple of coil turns.

So a 24 inch caphat tunes 10 through 60 meters easily on this antenna with an inch or so of coil leftover on 60. If 6 meters is open, I can just put the stock whip back on. For 80 meters I use the telescoping whip.

222DBFL advice is good and something I wish I did in the beginning...

"SPEND THE MONEY ONCE AND DO IT RIGHT"

So there you are, Good luck!

 

[Mudduckmobile]

Think of the caphat like lengthening the whip. The longer you go the more upper bands you lose but you start gaining better effiency on the other bands.

You will lose 6 meters anyway(no big loss I think) so Ideally you probably want to keep 10 meters tuned with minimal coil left.

I use three 24 inch rods fed thru the hub holes centered out making a 6 radial cap hat 24 inches in diameter. This tunes 10 meters with only a couple of coil turns.

So a 24 inch caphat tunes 10 through 60 meters easily on this antenna with an inch or so of coil leftover on 60. If 6 meters is open, I can just put the stock whip back on. For 80 meters I use the telescoping whip.

222DBFL advice is good and something I wish I did in the beginning...

"SPEND THE MONEY ONCE AND DO IT RIGHT"

So there you are, Good luck!

Man.. Thank you for all your time on this. I have been reading all the info. I can find, and you and 222DBLFL have been very heplful.....Thank you.

 

[rabbiporkchop]

I'm here to learn

I'm always interested in learning something new