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So I have a 2995DX on the way . . . . which amp?
- Thread starter Highland Ranger
- Start date
Are you talking about the e-chip? If so, yes, they still use them. Did you order a stock 29** from Copper?
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Your choice of a reliable linear will depend on how deep your pockets are. Cheap but good are the Ameritron.
You will need this to key any amateur linear.
RFS1 - RF Sensed T-R Relay Kit - Ramsey Electronics
You will need this to key any amateur linear.
RFS1 - RF Sensed T-R Relay Kit - Ramsey Electronics
Interesting device. However RF senseing devices are not a good idea for use in high power tube amplifiers if they are installed in the amplifier. There is a better way of automaticly keying these amplifiers that negates the chance of them being hot switched if you are not using a ham rig with the appropiate keying circuitry.
The key here is to key the amplifier BEFORE the RF reaches it.
The key here is to key the amplifier BEFORE the RF reaches it.
Hopefully the e-chip will come with it. Some places will not give it to you unless you buy their hack job. This is wrong as it is PART of the radio you purchased and shold not be seperated from it.
Ranger will disavow any knowledge of the chip.
I've heard that the chips are shipped separately from the radio to the vendor. Like I said, it's what I've heard.
Dunno if it's true. I do know that Ranger gets cryptic when you call them inquiring about one. Lol.
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Just updating - I did go with the AL80BQ.
20 watt dead key in gives in the neighborhood of 200 or so out which is the max dead key recommended on AM by Ameritron.
I did need to reduce mike gain as the radio swings like crazy and the grid protection board doesn't like that so much (trips out with too much swing)
Set up right @ the 20 watts in DK, the AL80 does the 200 out swinging to 800 or so comfortably - if I up the mic gain I can get it to swing to 1000 but it gets crunchy and tends to trip if I get too close to the mike.
That said I am running at about 175 watt DK, swinging to 600 or so - great reports on audio and although I'm not particularly long winded so YMMV, it doesn't seem to really get as hot as I expected.
Having some issues with keying (QSK) board right now (see reduced receive gain thread) but I hope to have that straightened out shortly.
Total cost with grid protection and QSK board and shipping direct from ameritron was 2k.
20 watt dead key in gives in the neighborhood of 200 or so out which is the max dead key recommended on AM by Ameritron.
I did need to reduce mike gain as the radio swings like crazy and the grid protection board doesn't like that so much (trips out with too much swing)
Set up right @ the 20 watts in DK, the AL80 does the 200 out swinging to 800 or so comfortably - if I up the mic gain I can get it to swing to 1000 but it gets crunchy and tends to trip if I get too close to the mike.
That said I am running at about 175 watt DK, swinging to 600 or so - great reports on audio and although I'm not particularly long winded so YMMV, it doesn't seem to really get as hot as I expected.
Having some issues with keying (QSK) board right now (see reduced receive gain thread) but I hope to have that straightened out shortly.
Total cost with grid protection and QSK board and shipping direct from ameritron was 2k.
RdGood deal. Now watch you grid and plate current. Pushing a single 3-500z to a kw is just that...pushing it especially up on 10/11 meters. But glad you went for this amp over the 811 variety. They are built heftier and better all around IMO. As far as keying it, I don't know how many people know this or do this, but in almost all CB radios and exports there is almost always a switched 8 volt source that in switched on in TX mode. We normally use that source and use it to switch on and off a switching transistor that in turn switches on and off a relay that in turn we connect to the PA jack (once its disconnected from it's old connections) and then you have a perfectly safe reliable clean connection to "hard key" an amp. No goofy foot pedals, no goofy kits/wires/ worrying about minimum rf to ket it...etc. I have seen some guys omit the transistor and just use the 8v line to latch a small relay which in turn can switch the larger one in the amp...but not recommended because of the drain the relay coil puts on the voltage source and also the spike that can be shot back in the radio from the relay coil being turned off. Even with an anti spike diode it can happen. If there's any interest in this I could start a new thread and post a drawing I can make of the schematic. Would be more than happy to share.
But before I started rambling, my point was to keep it around 700 watts peak and it will treat you right for many years. Running above these levels will reduce life of the tube a lot and no one will notice the difference on the air anyhow.
But before I started rambling, my point was to keep it around 700 watts peak and it will treat you right for many years. Running above these levels will reduce life of the tube a lot and no one will notice the difference on the air anyhow.
I'd be interested in seeing the schematic - currently using the Heil two stage pedal.
Re power - yes agreed - I'll run it lower than that, probably at that 175dk/600pep level. Nice and clean. Manual says underloading isn't good either, supposedly worse than overloading so that seems like a good spot.
I just wanted to capture that it can do a KW even down on 10/11m - contrary to some posts I had seem saying that the amp would not do a KW. When dialed in, it swung up there in a heartbeat. And the tube didn't seem to get all that brighter or hotter doing it.
Re power - yes agreed - I'll run it lower than that, probably at that 175dk/600pep level. Nice and clean. Manual says underloading isn't good either, supposedly worse than overloading so that seems like a good spot.
I just wanted to capture that it can do a KW even down on 10/11m - contrary to some posts I had seem saying that the amp would not do a KW. When dialed in, it swung up there in a heartbeat. And the tube didn't seem to get all that brighter or hotter doing it.
Oh yes. It will do it. But keep in mind just because the tube doesn't start glowing red hot, doesn't mean that damage that you can't see isn't happening. Not trying to come accross wrong...just want you to enjoy your new amp for years to come is all. Just watch the grid and plate current and you will be fine.
In fact, just a little info on the tube you are running...it is perfectly fine for the plate to heat up and glow a dull red when transmitting within reason. Due to the design of the tube and lack of "getters" it can actually help get rid of any impurities that exist within from manufacturing processes or that can collect over time. So running them hot is OK..you just don't want to hurt the grid or get it so hot it hurts the tube or worse, causes an internal short which could hurt other things too. Have fun!
In fact, just a little info on the tube you are running...it is perfectly fine for the plate to heat up and glow a dull red when transmitting within reason. Due to the design of the tube and lack of "getters" it can actually help get rid of any impurities that exist within from manufacturing processes or that can collect over time. So running them hot is OK..you just don't want to hurt the grid or get it so hot it hurts the tube or worse, causes an internal short which could hurt other things too. Have fun!
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