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solder for lmr400
- Thread starter 9deuce
- Start date
Careful Robb. Beetle will be along here soon and set you straight on that.
I use a gun mostly as well however I have an old school Weller D550 which has more heat than the present model D550's. It has 240/325 watts of heat and a large tip as opposed to the present models that only have 200/260 watts. It makes a difference. PL-259's go together in a couple seconds with that beast. I do use an 80 watt iron made for stained glass work sometimes..........whenever I can find it.
Oh boy, here comes trouble!
I used to have an old 'Weller' soldering gun, no idea what size it was. It would melt lots of things, solder was no biggy at all. Unfortunately, it died. (Was given a decent burial so I don't feel guilty about it.) I have had lots of trouble trying to solder out in the yard, wind, temperatures, long extension cords, you know about all that sort of thingys? So, happened to have a 'torch', few bottles of various kinds of gas (don't use 'map' gas it's too hot). So learned how to do soldering with that torch. Didn't have to worry about the wind cooling things off, temperature, etc. Ruined a lot of connectors. But finally figured out how to do it. 'Moderation', that's the key! So, if/when I put connectors on coax I usually reach for the propane torch. The 'right' way to do it? Beats me, probably not, but who cares it works (most of the time). Make mistakes? Sure, but not all/most of the time. Would I recommend that way of doing it? Not really, it takes a lot of practice and mistakes to do it right. It's an 'art'! Us artists have to put up with a lot of criticism, you know? Some things come out really 'Esheristic' if that makes sense to you, but it works. That's the main thing. Do what ever you can, how ever you can, and deal with the consequences. Dang, that's how everything is, ain't it?
- 'Doc
I used to have an old 'Weller' soldering gun, no idea what size it was. It would melt lots of things, solder was no biggy at all. Unfortunately, it died. (Was given a decent burial so I don't feel guilty about it.) I have had lots of trouble trying to solder out in the yard, wind, temperatures, long extension cords, you know about all that sort of thingys? So, happened to have a 'torch', few bottles of various kinds of gas (don't use 'map' gas it's too hot). So learned how to do soldering with that torch. Didn't have to worry about the wind cooling things off, temperature, etc. Ruined a lot of connectors. But finally figured out how to do it. 'Moderation', that's the key! So, if/when I put connectors on coax I usually reach for the propane torch. The 'right' way to do it? Beats me, probably not, but who cares it works (most of the time). Make mistakes? Sure, but not all/most of the time. Would I recommend that way of doing it? Not really, it takes a lot of practice and mistakes to do it right. It's an 'art'! Us artists have to put up with a lot of criticism, you know? Some things come out really 'Esheristic' if that makes sense to you, but it works. That's the main thing. Do what ever you can, how ever you can, and deal with the consequences. Dang, that's how everything is, ain't it?
- 'Doc
Careful Robb. Beetle will be along here soon and set you straight on that.
I use a gun mostly as well however I have an old school Weller D550 which has more heat than the present model D550's. It has 240/325 watts of heat and a large tip as opposed to the present models that only have 200/260 watts. It makes a difference. PL-259's go together in a couple seconds with that beast. I do use an 80 watt iron made for stained glass work sometimes..........whenever I can find it.
On no; it is a 140/100w job. Works quick and easy. Never had a problem with too little/much heat.
Careful Robb. Beetle will be along here soon and set you straight on that.
I use a gun mostly as well however I have an old school Weller D550 which has more heat than the present model D550's. It has 240/325 watts of heat and a large tip as opposed to the present models that only have 200/260 watts. It makes a difference. PL-259's go together in a couple seconds with that beast. I do use an 80 watt iron made for stained glass work sometimes..........whenever I can find it.
Nope - I've given up on trying to persuade those who insist on using any type of soldering gun for connector work. I used to use one, back when I was a Novice. The quality of my connector work was such that it did not exist. The "quality" part, I mean. My elmer/high school electronics teacher gave me a little lecture on "thermal mass" and let me use his 100W American Beauty, and it was like day and night! Perfect wetting, perfect contouring...so I bought one. When it finally died, I got that iron you're talking about, Garth. The stained glass iron, 80W. It, and my little butane iron are all I use for most soldering. I have a couple smaller irons for the little PC work I do. Haven't owned (or used) a soldering gun since about 1968.
I also have a small Bernzomatic mini torch that is great. It came with several tips and runs off a standard 1 lb. propane or MAPP gas cylinder. It has a hose that is about three or four feet long and works great outdoors in the wind.
I have also used a regular torch with a solder iron attachment.It is basically a large solder iron tip that fit on the end of a regular propane torch. That thing would work in a hurricane I think. Sadly it appears to be a pretty scarce item nowadays. I can't even find an image of one.
I have also used a regular torch with a solder iron attachment.It is basically a large solder iron tip that fit on the end of a regular propane torch. That thing would work in a hurricane I think. Sadly it appears to be a pretty scarce item nowadays. I can't even find an image of one.
As long as you use the teflon insulators type connectors you may not but if you accidentally start on a connector with the cheap plastic insulator you will definitely see the difference a quickie job can make.
Beetle;463483[B said:
You can only beat your head against the wall so many times before you have to give up don't you Pat? Talking about thermal mass, that solder tip for a regular propane torch has lots of thermal mass and a LOT of heat to keep it topped up. I used to solder copper sheet with that.
I see your point now. Only use the silver plated ones I get from HRO a couple of miles up the street. No more of those cheapie nickel-plated Radio Shack connectors any more. Had problems with them until I used a Dremel tool to break past the nickel plate . . .
Some of the silver plated connectors have the cheap plastic insulator as well. Sounds odd doesn't it. Spend money to solver plate it in the name of quality and then throw in a cheap plastic insulator. You have to be careful of the supplier. As for the nickle plated brass connectors, I still have a bunch in service but slowly replace them on an as needed basis. I use a small file and take a few swipes to take it down to the bare brass. Well i used to do that but as I said now I use the silver connectors and gradually phase out the nickle plated ones.
I have a Weller 450 watt gun with 100/250/450 watt tips but I recently used it to solder RG8X shield onto the reducer. I also use a cheat. I melt a blob of solder to make thermal contact where I don't have to take as long trying to heat up the connector. I watch the solder begin to flow and make the solder connection.
I've had and used this gun since I bought it new in the eighties.
I've had and used this gun since I bought it new in the eighties.
It's not the tips but rather the switch positions and current draw that changes the heat level in a soldering gun. Must admit I never heard of a Weller gun with 100/250/450 watt settings. Can't find one online either. What is the model number?
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