Yep...I will try to find a pro to do it...if I cannot....then I will give it my best shot.
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Solder?
- Thread starter Eastside
- Start date
Yep...I will try to find a pro to do it...if I cannot....then I will give it my best shot.
54 years as a ham and he hasn't realized yet that his method usually ends up with the threads cutting off some more of the braid as he screws the connector on. I used to do that years ago that's how I know. You usually don't find that out until you unscrew the connector however. I solder everything now.
I really doubt that if everything is waterproofed as it should be but I just don't like that guys method. I prefer to have all my shield wires connected and not cut half them off first and then cut a bunch more off screwing the connector on. I started soldering connectors on about 36 years ago and God willing I will be soldering them in another 36 years. If I still remember what solder is and if my hands are steady enough by the time I hit 86.
When I have made my own coax cables, I use a little urethane glue or silicon adhesive right where the coax enters the PL connector. The urethane glue is not only waterproof, but offers a small measure of strain relief to the coax itself.
If you are concerned about water intrusion into the PL connection at the antenna, there is a special sealant tape available that is weather resistant that I use on all of my antennas. I call it 'goop tape'; don't recall its trade name. Sorry.
If you are concerned about water intrusion into the PL connection at the antenna, there is a special sealant tape available that is weather resistant that I use on all of my antennas. I call it 'goop tape'; don't recall its trade name. Sorry.
Could be called Coax Seal or AMP Fusion Tape by Tyco. Coax Seal is softer and gooier whereas the fusion tape is heavy uncured rubber tape that seals into a solid piece of rubber in a day or two after application.
First I apply a layer or two of electrical tape. Next I completely cover the connector with silicone sealant spreading it back over the connector and a little on the cable past where the tape stops. That's it. The tape simply serves to allow me to remove the silicone rubber later if I have too. I just cut straight down thru everything with a sharp knife and peel everything open. The tape prevents the silicone from bonding to the connector itself. I have used self vulcanizing rubber tape in the past as well and it is good too but silicone is just as good and cheaper if you buy the large tubes and use a caulking gun. Before someone says not to use the silicone that smells like vinegar as it cures......I have connectors or splices that have been in the weather for 20 years and they are as shiny as new when cut open. The layer of tape protects the connector from the acidic acid that is released as the rubber cures.
The weather proofing you are referring to is most likely butyl tape or self-amalgamating tape.
Here are a couple of photos of the 2 different kinds, first one is what we call fast wrap and the second photo is butyl and electrical tape weather proofing kit. We use these to weather proof coax connectors on cell site coax feed points.
Here are a couple of photos of the 2 different kinds, first one is what we call fast wrap and the second photo is butyl and electrical tape weather proofing kit. We use these to weather proof coax connectors on cell site coax feed points.
This will do you fine for PL-259s:
Soldering Irons by WELLER - Soldering Tools by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies
It's quite a bit larger than what you likely need for circuit board work, but this (or an American Beauty 100 watt iron) fills the requirement for a MASSIVE tip, compared to the connector body.
Soldering Irons by WELLER - Soldering Tools by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies
It's quite a bit larger than what you likely need for circuit board work, but this (or an American Beauty 100 watt iron) fills the requirement for a MASSIVE tip, compared to the connector body.
Would the Weller sp40 do the job? the sp 80 looks like it would only be good for putting on pl-259s and too big for anything else?
I've never used the SP40 for anything, and just from looking at them at Lowe's, I wouldn't try one on PL-259s. You really need a variety of irons and tip sizes and weights for different applications. A 1/4" drill bit isn't the only one you're likely to need...same idea for soldering.
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