Someone That can help me with a SMD data sheet

[Low_Boy]

AS most of you that have been reading my thread know I need a 4.7UH Surface mount coil. There are many different surface mount coils. My part number is LEM2520. Mouser shows the number but has none. I did find a data sheet on the part.
https://www.datasheetarchive.com/LEMC2520-datasheet.html
Hoping someone that knows more about surface mount could tell me another part that may fit in this spot.
Size probably does matter in this case. LOL

 

[NZ8N]

Does the original component show continuity? Does it still pass voltage to the mic pin?

This is what Mouser has in 2520 size 4.7uH wire wound inductors. These are 1A or better.

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Comp...7ymZ1z0sfztZ1y937vj&Keyword=inductors&FS=True

It is not the same exact package, the wire is wound horizontal (to itself) rather than vertical.

$.33 each, $7.99 s/h
$8.32 total. No minimum order, according to a Google search.

 

[Handy Andy]

Perhaps a little help for those that will eventually arrive to this problem

When you see a "size configuration" they talk about it's footprint...2520 refers to this...

But magnified, it looks like this...
​

When you cross reference - you might find this...

From Digikey...
​

So grab it's datasheet and look scroll down to find the package outline and see if you can make it fit....

​

So it will, but wanted to point out the PADS distance from each other - gotta make sure any traces flowing underneath it - if any can pass thru without getting soldered to it while you attempt the repair.

So you help you @Low_Boy - go with @NZ8N suggestion - 2520 is simply the package size mm X mm type of stuff.

But make sure the pads can be soldered easily enough - so again, Thx! to @NZ8N for the research.

The datasheet below in from Digikey but the parts rated AT LEAST 4 amp surge, so whatever they person did - ouch...

​

 

[DoctorAudio]

The one you have is obsolete. I did a little searching and I found an SMD inductor from the same company at Mouser. They don't make one that's 4.7uH at 175ma any more but there is one in the same size package that's 4.7uH at 1.3A.

Your original: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Taiyo-Yuden/LEM2520T4R7J/?qs=PzICbMaShUfwU%2BOiUpk2hQ==

The replacement: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Taiyo-Yuden/MAMK2520T4R7M?qs=Nnr55kyzdht1Ty9qV1oe5Q==

As long as the inductance is the same and the width/length are the same it will probably work fine.

 

[Low_Boy]

I want to thank everyone. And in Andy's print 2520 is = to 1008 metric. My part is definitely bad it shows no continuity. And Mouser is good because I always need to stock up on electrolytic capacitors.
BIG thanks again guys.

 

[Low_Boy]

Perhaps a little help for those that will eventually arrive to this problem

When you see a "size configuration" they talk about it's footprint...2520 refers to this...

View attachment 46355
But magnified, it looks like this...
View attachment 46357​

When you cross reference - you might find this...

View attachment 46353
From Digikey...
​

So grab it's datasheet and look scroll down to find the package outline and see if you can make it fit....

View attachment 46358​

So it will, but wanted to point out the PADS distance from each other - gotta make sure any traces flowing underneath it - if any can pass thru without getting soldered to it while you attempt the repair.

So you help you @Low_Boy - go with @NZ8N suggestion - 2520 is simply the package size mm X mm type of stuff.

But make sure the pads can be soldered easily enough - so again, Thx! to @NZ8N for the research.

The datasheet below in from Digikey but the parts rated AT LEAST 4 amp surge, so whatever they person did - ouch...
I do not know but that is the 13.8 V pin I think it was shorted directly to ground.

​

 

[Low_Boy]

In and radio is working. I am not to proud of my workmanship though. The front of the radio would have to been separated to do it more neatly. I have done that before on a TRC-485 conversion and just did not want to go through that again. It is also in backwards but that is the only way I could reach in to get solder to it.
Not my best work at all. It looks worse in the picture. LoL

 

[Handy Andy]

I'm not going to bother with the pic...

Just cutting to the chase...

Does it work? (It's why there are covers, hides the genius inside...)

 

[Low_Boy]

Works well Andy. Terrible thing is my work is usually so neat. I could not get in there to solder it. I hardly got it out of the casing. I have 3 more of both comparable part numbers . So I am good.