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Speed X Refurbishing
- Thread starter Se7en
- Start date
Good eye Doc. I missed that myself. Of course it is not really necessary for normal operation but it would be nice to have. I have used it a couple times when I wanted both hands free to tweak the tuner knobs quickly.
Is something missing ?
It would be nice if someone had a schematic or pdf picture file of what each part does and part name......
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
The piece with the small black knob. Normally it's sitting as shown in this pic of a J-38, not making electrical contact with anything. However, it can be slid to the left (small knob moving closer to the main knob). In that position it slides under a thin piece of metal attached to the stationary contact, thereby closing the key circuit just like a switch. We don't see that thin piece of metal in your disassembled key.
Landline telegraphers used to have to keep that switch closed except when they were sending or receiving a message. The "network" consisted of two, three or a dozen keys, all connected in series. If one of them was left open, nobody could send OR receive.
The piece with the small black knob. Normally it's sitting as shown in this pic of a J-38, not making electrical contact with anything. However, it can be slid to the left (small knob moving closer to the main knob). In that position it slides under a thin piece of metal attached to the stationary contact, thereby closing the key circuit just like a switch. We don't see that thin piece of metal in your disassembled key.
Landline telegraphers used to have to keep that switch closed except when they were sending or receiving a message. The "network" consisted of two, three or a dozen keys, all connected in series. If one of them was left open, nobody could send OR receive.
Ok I have that. Just extracted it all to Polish up. I had no clue what that thing was uses.for
Is this a quility key or cheap ?
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
The piece with the small black knob. Normally it's sitting as shown in this pic of a J-38, not making electrical contact with anything. However, it can be slid to the left (small knob moving closer to the main knob). In that position it slides under a thin piece of metal attached to the stationary contact, thereby closing the key circuit just like a switch. We don't see that thin piece of metal in your disassembled key.
Landline telegraphers used to have to keep that switch closed except when they were sending or receiving a message. The "network" consisted of two, three or a dozen keys, all connected in series. If one of them was left open, nobody could send OR receive.
Like leaving your phone off the hook.
OK so that slider is like a open circuit like a light switch......slide left key is hot slide to the right key is disconnected nutral.
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That's what that is for?...hi... I thought it was so I could tell if
my XYL has been dusting the Shack again..
Seems like it used to be, I would turn on the rig and be transmitting
right away...:blink:LOL I've learned to check it first now.
Guess if I kept up with my household duties better that would'nt
happen .... ..
73, Keith
my XYL has been dusting the Shack again..
Seems like it used to be, I would turn on the rig and be transmitting
right away...:blink:LOL I've learned to check it first now.
Guess if I kept up with my household duties better that would'nt
happen .... ..
73, Keith
For the usual use that shorting lever isn't used much for radio CW, if at all. In a whole lot of years I don't think I've had an honest use for it except for maybe once or twice. So, you really aren't missing anything important.
Your key appears to be about as 'quality' as any and a lot higher quality than some I've seen. They take a lot more 'abuse'/pounding than you'd think, so a heavier made key is usually going to last longer than one that's very lightly constructed. If you ever pound one hard enough to break it, you're really over doing it a lot, you know?
The one thing I'd suggest is to make a nice 'heavy-ish' base for it, they will move around too much if you don't. A pound or two really isn't unreasonable, sort of depends on your 'style' of using the thing.
And naturally, don't loose the insulators!
- 'Doc
Your key appears to be about as 'quality' as any and a lot higher quality than some I've seen. They take a lot more 'abuse'/pounding than you'd think, so a heavier made key is usually going to last longer than one that's very lightly constructed. If you ever pound one hard enough to break it, you're really over doing it a lot, you know?
The one thing I'd suggest is to make a nice 'heavy-ish' base for it, they will move around too much if you don't. A pound or two really isn't unreasonable, sort of depends on your 'style' of using the thing.
And naturally, don't loose the insulators!
- 'Doc
My wife knows better than to clean/dust my shack. She leaves it up to me. That's why it is in the state it is but at least I know where everything is.
This is my Speedex key. It is made by the William M. Nye company and has what is called the navy knob. Notice the knob is different than your's. I like it a lot better as it gives me something to actually hold and not tend just to slap.Also note the shorting lever clip under the key arm. I made the base from a piece of 3/4 inch birch plywood and removed almost all of the layers underneath and filled the cavity with cut sheet lead and put small rubber feet on the bottom. That sucker does not move on the desk.
My wife knows better than to clean/dust my shack. She leaves it up to me. That's why it is in the state it is but at least I know where everything is.
.
This is my Speedex key. It is made by the William M. Nye company and has what is called the navy knob. Notice the knob is different than your's. I like it a lot better as it gives me something to actually hold and not tend just to slap.Also note the shorting lever clip under the key arm. I made the base from a piece of 3/4 inch birch plywood and removed almost all of the layers underneath and filled the cavity with cut sheet lead and put small rubber feet on the bottom. That sucker does not move on the desk.
That key looks sexy. I dig that Bakelite usn custom knob. I am going to use redwood as a base or I might use cherry wood like what is in my truck. Doesn't the rubber feet add too much height ? I am thinking about a sheet of leather on the bottom of mine
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The feet are only about 1/4 high at the most. They are just small round adhesive type. Leather may work except when it gets too dry or dusty. I used the sheet lead as I had some on hand and it made the base quite stable.
still have a lot more wire brushing to do. i am thinking about having the base gold plated and the other parts blued, and the hardware polished to a chrome finish.
Uh-oh. Now you did it. You removed all the plating and now it will rust like a bugger. Better do something with it soon.
