NOOOOOO.....LOL
My power lead is 9-10' long. My ground is 16 inches long.
8-10' run, 6 should be fine....I'd run 4 AWG just because, A: you'd know you're covered in efficiency and B: just in case you decide to get a bigger amp.
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Strange
- Thread starter Ziploc
- Start date
My power lead is 9-10' long. My ground is 16 inches long.
8-10' run, 6 should be fine....I'd run 4 AWG just because, A: you'd know you're covered in efficiency and B: just in case you decide to get a bigger amp.
So with the dmm probe the Anderson clip leads key up and talk and look for how much voltage I have under modulation? What would be a normal range ???
Well, if you can...... Check voltage at the battery while keyed, get your base reading there, then go to your amp and check there, the difference will be your voltage drop and you can decide if you need larger power wire or not, also, you can "touch" your amp ground lug while talking and see if there's ANY increase in temp.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
Yes voltage while modulating. Compare voltage at amplifier to voltage at battery. Ideally, you would want to see no difference between the readings. If I had a 1 volt difference, I would try to make it better. Even though the people on the other end probably won't notice. If there is a big difference, then measuring across each connection under load will identify a bad connection.
Were that my seat bolt I’d cut the floor covering and attach to bolt between seat bracket and steel floor. (I/O serrated washer).
The bolt penetrates the floor thus a good (strong) location. But I don’t want the bolt carrying the DC load.
1). I want the DC ground to the body.
2). And an improved body-frame DC ground also
(Consider jumping cab-frame bushings).
If not mentioned there is a seat-bolt torque-value that has to be respected. Ck for what chemical locker used (Blue Loctite otherwise).
Three-point harness and improved seat attachment location is a system.
Air bags pretty much a joke. The three-point is what really matters. Ones back must be aligned to the upper seat cushion and restrained against it.
So, if the DC Ground also made with a disconnect inline, so be it. Bare ends coated in anti-corrosion to go around bolt under plate. Etc.
And ignore my irritability in this thread. Not aimed at anyone (unless a fool on the road cutting in front of me this week). The level of stupid keeps going up. Not caution.
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The bolt penetrates the floor thus a good (strong) location. But I don’t want the bolt carrying the DC load.
1). I want the DC ground to the body.
2). And an improved body-frame DC ground also
(Consider jumping cab-frame bushings).
If not mentioned there is a seat-bolt torque-value that has to be respected. Ck for what chemical locker used (Blue Loctite otherwise).
Three-point harness and improved seat attachment location is a system.
Air bags pretty much a joke. The three-point is what really matters. Ones back must be aligned to the upper seat cushion and restrained against it.
So, if the DC Ground also made with a disconnect inline, so be it. Bare ends coated in anti-corrosion to go around bolt under plate. Etc.
And ignore my irritability in this thread. Not aimed at anyone (unless a fool on the road cutting in front of me this week). The level of stupid keeps going up. Not caution.
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Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
One thing to check when using the body for ground, is the ground wire that goes from the body to the battery. I have seen a lot of vehicles that have a 10awg pigtail off of the battery terminal and is hardly big enough to run the accessories that came with the vehicle.
What’s the fused demand (peak) of all devices connected? Not working load, but theoretical maximum?
The MARINCO 3% Voltage Drop Chart shows 8-AWG will handle 30A at 10-15’
6-AWG to 50A, same length.
13.7V to 13.3V is 3%.
13.7 to 13.0 is 5%
If it’s good enough for commercial marine insurance requirements, “more” isn’t more.
Use a BUSSMAN (also Blue Sea) termination fuse at the battery end.
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What You said! This as is also my feelings about this.
The SRS system isn't foolproof, great strides have been made in making this an effective system...
But man! The cost of replacements both in human and technology is what can total out a car in the recovery cost just to make it drivable again.
One area with too much RF and pretty much have to write off the vehicle when the deployment due to Air Bag sensors - and you weren't even moving - are what caused it.
Good RF Bonding would be jumping all the cab-frame bushings. Good practice would also be DC Ground jumpers done same way.
IOW, not just firewall/cab body single DC Ground.
The dummies killed in the Fort Worth 133-vehicle smash-up learned the hard way their air-conditioned go karts had air bags that saved them. But only with the first collision. After which they were semi-dazed.
A mercy, that.
Yet, maybe we should pity those who just couldn’t fork out the green for the X-Ray HUD which shows what’s over the next rise. And around every curve.
Can’t Fix Stupid.
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QRZ has some inadvertently funny stories about air bag deployments while rag chewing.
Again, see Master Yoda (k0bg).
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Bottom line, nothing is good about a seat bolt ground. If it works your lucky. If your going to step up your game and run an amp, you need to do the NECESSARY things that go with it. Thick guage power and ground wires, both amp and vehicle electrical. Ground to vehicle frame, if you have to go thru the floor so be it, Etc etc. Its usually never as easy as just connecting the stuff to power and your good to go. 250w or less maybe but other than that, you gotta step up and do it right. Side note: if you still have voltage drop your alternator is just to small. When there is not enough amperage to supply the amp, it will start pulling more volts, not good. Hence your voltage drop issue and eventual failure of the alternator.
Good post by groundwire
Ok So I go back and re read the thread.
To help figure this lets ask:
Is it voltage drop that you are worried about?
If the whole thing is the part were you key the radio and amp , and see the volt meter on the truck drop slightly, that's not a ground for the amp problem.
Some factory charging systems may not be able maintain the voltage at idle.
Try this:
Fire it up
Check the voltage at the battery at idle
Turn on some load, headlights on high, AC on max
Then check the voltage at the battery at idle.
Does it drop?
You can also observe the dash volt meter, does it drop like it does when you key amp?
Need to see if this is a problem as described by groundwires post.
73
Jeff