First thought: Attempt to get the NEW version of this radio, which has switchable H-L power... this will make it so you don't have to desolder the "HI" solder bridge to get low power... Another advantage of the NEW version of this radio is the switch-able and improved NB and ANL circuitry, as well as a MOSFET final that will give you ~5 more watts peak power on AM.
Here's the pic of the innards of the OLD version...
Removing the solder bridge in the encircled area will lower the carrier and GREATLY improve the perceived transmit audio in this radio. Again, this is not necessary in the NEW version of this rig, as it has menu select-able Hi-Lo power. In either model, turn W4 (red arrow) **GENTLY** with a plastic tool to increase modulation. DO NOT attempt to remove the AMC.
Frequency Expansion:
Solder / desolder jumpers at OP1 & OP2 to get the desired frequency expansion, or none at all. Typical USA 'freeband' use would be achieved by leaving (or replacing if missing) a solder bridge at OP1 ONLY.
Enjoy!
Here's the pic of the innards of the OLD version...
Removing the solder bridge in the encircled area will lower the carrier and GREATLY improve the perceived transmit audio in this radio. Again, this is not necessary in the NEW version of this rig, as it has menu select-able Hi-Lo power. In either model, turn W4 (red arrow) **GENTLY** with a plastic tool to increase modulation. DO NOT attempt to remove the AMC.
Frequency Expansion:
Solder / desolder jumpers at OP1 & OP2 to get the desired frequency expansion, or none at all. Typical USA 'freeband' use would be achieved by leaving (or replacing if missing) a solder bridge at OP1 ONLY.
Enjoy!