Super Star 3000 From Japan N.O.S.

[loosecannon]

shadetree,

here is a schematic for your board:
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/superstar/121/graphics/superstar_121_sch.pdf

this is for the superstar 121, so hopefully we can find another equivalent with more info online.
LC

 

[loosecannon]

this freq mod should work for it also:

http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/superstar/121/ss121_freq_mod.htm
LC

 

[TheRealPorkchop]

Don’t ya just want to hug LC?

 

[loosecannon]

for the rest of the info, you should be able to use the Galaxy 33 board.
yes, it's a 3600 series board, but the part numbers are identical.

there are a few differences, such as a different TX mixer chip, and i think one has an SWR meter and one doesn't, so there may be minor differences.

here is a link to the page that should help you get it aligned:
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/galaxy/dx33hml/index.htm

the biggest difference you will find is that galaxy stepped up to a larger AM regulator transistor, so if you can make it fit, you can change TR51 to a TIP36, 2SB817, or something like that, and use the old TR51 in the TR50 spot to upgrade this section.

hope that helps
LC

 

[loosecannon]

Don’t ya just want to hug LC?

a little guilt can be quite the motivator LOL.
LC

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

shadetree,

here is a schematic for your board:
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/superstar/121/graphics/superstar_121_sch.pdf

this is for the superstar 121, so hopefully we can find another equivalent with more info online.
LC

Thanks for the info LC. Not sure about the frequency mod, my board doesn't have a wire on the solder side.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I did manage to find the Goldfinger mod from WWPDX

Postby Goldfinger » Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:23 pm

Transmit:

Change C129 to a 10uF 16-25 volt Tantalum, observe polarity

Change C187 and C191 to 2.2uF mylar or non-polarized electrolytic

Receive:

Change C36 and C39 to 2.2uF mylar or non-polarized electrolytic

Remove C38

Change C157 to a 2.2uf 16-25 volt Tantalum observe polarity

Change C155 and C154 to 2.2uF mylar or non-polarized electrolytic

Schottky diodes:

Replace D23 and D24 with Schottky diodes. You might have to re-adjust the receive meter, VR1
wwpdx
wwpdx.com


http://www.wwpdx.com/ForumWWPDX/vie...r&sid=8e4af60e89f4c136d3ae007b24253924#p79033

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

More information

S3000: {L33, VR14-AMC, VR15-AM WR, VR5-FM DEV}
this is all I could find on this radio.

https://www.radiomods.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1484

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I did some playing around with it today and came to the conclusion that it already does 11m on D band so no conversion is needed.

I got some good audio reports with it and it swings the Autek meter with the modulation. Low power is 0.75w dead key and high is 5w dead key. Both modes swing up to about 28w pep with modulation. The low would be perfect for driving an amp.

There is also a unique feature for the Roger beep. Its a regular beep like a Galaxy but there is no switch to turn it off.... such a great feature why would anyone turn it off? Haha. I remember seeing a mod to put a switch in line in place of a jumper. I will probably put a micro toggle on the back for it.

Attached is the schematic.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I found this Master Mods manual that shows the Roger beep mod for the 3900. They say to cut J9 or put a switch in its place. I will have to lift one end to test it. There is also a 10khz shift mod for the 121 that would go good on the knob that currently pulls out to activate the PA function. Strangely the schematic and the manual that came with it shows a switch for the Roger beep.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

CB Radio Magazine did a review of the Super Star 121.

http://www.cbradiomagazine.com/Radio Reviews/Superstar 121/Superstar121.html

 

[Big Kahuna]

I vaguely remember that radio as that was a while back. I do remember the audio wasn't anything special even with the modulation at maximum until I removed the limiter. I didn't bother putting it on the scope and it probably would have looked like crap but it definitely sounded better after the mod.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I put it on the scope and with VR14 Mod pot all the way up it was barely over 50%. So I checked out the Master Mods book and it lists the removal of TR32 to defeat the limiter. I unsoldered two legs and pushed it over a little to get the legs out of the holes. Sure enough the modulation jumped up to around 100%, and listening to it on my Cobra 148 that I use for a station monitor it didn't sound over modulated.

With a few quick radio checks, I noticed that the SWR on my Auteck meter would jump up to 1.5 with modulation. Normally it would be flat 1.1 to 1 and I suspect that it now has out of band emissions. Guess I won't be putting an amp behind it unless I can modify the limiter to allow higher modulation.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I put it on the scope and with VR14 Mod pot all the way up it was barely over 50%. So I checked out the Master Mods book and it lists the removal of TR32 to defeat the limiter. I unsoldered two legs and pushed it over a little to get the legs out of the holes. Sure enough the modulation jumped up to around 100%, and listening to it on my Cobra 148 that I use for a station monitor it didn't sound over modulated.

With a few quick radio checks, I noticed that the SWR on my Auteck meter would jump up to 1.5 with modulation. Normally it would be flat 1.1 to 1 and I suspect that it now has out of band emissions. Guess I won't be putting an amp behind it unless I can modify the limiter to allow higher modulation.

Sounds familiar Not sure about the SWR issue though, I don't remember running into that.