SWR/Watt/Mod

[SuperDave]

Can some one recommend me a SWR/Watt/Mod meter? I have a Workman 201s, RadioShack and another cheapo meter, but I would like a fairly good meter. I would also like for it to measure PEP.

I want keep it around the $115 range.

Recommendations?


Comments on this one?

Dosy Inline Watt Meters TC-4001P

 

[Robb]

Some of the MFJ watt meters are true peak reading meters.

However before I bought the Autek WM-1, it was highly recommended by more than a few Ham guys. You might find one used for around ~$120 or so . . .

 

[KC9Q]

Here's a good one. Bare Bones, but does what you want at a very lo price.

CB/High-Frequency Ham Power SWR Meter - RadioShack.com

Don't laugh, it works good. See the reviews on eHam.net.

Mike

 

[SuperDave]

Here's a good one. Bare Bones, but does what you want at a very lo price.

CB/High-Frequency Ham Power SWR Meter - RadioShack.com

Don't laugh, it works good. See the reviews on eHam.net.

Mike

I've got that one. Do a continuity test with that meter and tell me what happens.. my meter buzzes like crazy.

 

[Beetle]

How do you do a "continuity test" with ANY SWR/Power meter?

That Radio Shack meter may have a "PEP" or "Peak" switch setting, but don't bet the farm on how reliable it is. In order to measure PEP, the meter must have a source of power (batteries or wall wart) for the active electronics needed. This RS junker, and many other brands, switches a capacitor across the meter movement to somewhat simulate a "peak" function. But without the circuitry to actually compute the RF waveform and provide a reliable meter indication, it ain't true PEP and never will be.

 

[TonyV225]

You should show continuty or your meter would be more of a piece of junk than you think it is now. If you guys ever sell those Rad Shack meters pm me a price.

 

[SuperDave]

How do you do a "continuity test" with ANY SWR/Power meter?

That Radio Shack meter may have a "PEP" or "Peak" switch setting, but don't bet the farm on how reliable it is. In order to measure PEP, the meter must have a source of power (batteries or wall wart) for the active electronics needed. This RS junker, and many other brands, switches a capacitor across the meter movement to somewhat simulate a "peak" function. But without the circuitry to actually compute the RF waveform and provide a reliable meter indication, it ain't true PEP and never will be.

Checking continuity in the connectors for the coax on the back of the meter. Touching the center of the connector with one lead and the outside of the other connector with the other lead (from the multi meter). When I do this I get a "buzz".

Is that suppose to happen? I know when you check you coax you don not want to hear that... Im no pro, so maybe it's ok for a meter to do that because of the wiring inside?

 

[W5LZ]

Without an explanation, which isn't all that simple, you've got it right. It can show a short because of the wiring inside. What appears to be a short at 'DC' (direct current) isn't necessarily a short with AC, all RF is AC (alternating current).
- 'Doc

 

[SuperDave]

Without an explanation, which isn't all that simple, you've got it right. It can show a short because of the wiring inside. What appears to be a short at 'DC' (direct current) isn't necessarily a short with AC, all RF is AC (alternating current).
- 'Doc

Gotcha Doc. So technically there is nothing wrong with my RadioShack meter? I just want to make sure I'm on the same page as you.


I still want a new meter with the 3 functions I mentioned.

 

[W5LZ]

I can't say if there's anything wrong with your meter or not. I don't -think- there is based on a continuity test though.
- 'Doc

 

[The Jerk]

I can't say if there's anything wrong with your meter or not. I don't -think- there is based on a continuity test though.
- 'Doc

I would agree...what the multimeter was reading likely has nothing to do with condition of the SWR meter.

That meter likely uses the shield as an electrical ground and the center pin for an electrical positive...they have some connectivity somewhere in the SWR meter (or it wouldn't work).

 

[Beetle]

Checking continuity in the connectors for the coax on the back of the meter. Touching the center of the connector with one lead and the outside of the other connector with the other lead (from the multi meter). When I do this I get a "buzz".

Is that suppose to happen? I know when you check you coax you don not want to hear that... Im no pro, so maybe it's ok for a meter to do that because of the wiring inside?

Ah! I thought you were talking about using the SWR meter like an ohmmeter - a function I've never seen on ANY SWR/power meter. You're talking about using an actual multimeter to do the test ON the SWR meter; a whole different thingy altogether. I agree with 'Doc and the rest: your meter MAY be good. Or not. Easiest way to find out is borrow a known-good meter and see what it says.

And as far as measuring your modulation, no meter will come close to an oscilloscope.

 

[SuperDave]

Ah! I thought you were talking about using the SWR meter like an ohmmeter - a function I've never seen on ANY SWR/power meter. You're talking about using an actual multimeter to do the test ON the SWR meter; a whole different thingy altogether. I agree with 'Doc and the rest: your meter MAY be good. Or not. Easiest way to find out is borrow a known-good meter and see what it says.

And as far as measuring your modulation, no meter will come close to an oscilloscope.

I guess the same goes for measurings wattage and not using a bird?


Well my bubble has been bursted! haha Well Based on my price range does anyone have any other suggestions? Dosy or MFJ?

 

[psycho]

Buy a cross needle meter for power and swr.......so simple even Sarah Palin could use it. You'll know something is wrong before the smoke gets let out.
Autek WM-1 is even easier to read but customer service sucks.

 

[Robb]

Still think that the Autek is your best bet for the best meter.

However, a MFJ that has a peak reading circuit in it will be the cheaper alternative - IMO . . .