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Teaberry Stalker XV No RX audio / no TX need help

While I am NOT one of the more "proven" people around here.... I would be tempted to say that TR23 looks shorted....but find it odd that you see 9v on the emitter when there are only 8v measured on the collector. It would be interesting to pull it and give it a back to back test with a meter....

And, I don't believe that bypass cap would have anything to do with the high emitter voltage in this case. If it were leaking... it is conceivable that it could pull the emitter "down" from where it should be ...but would have no way to push it higher.....especially that high.

This second look has got me wondering about the emitter resistor though... perhaps check it and make sure it is not open or WAY high in value.....
 
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Ok, had several "fires" to take care of, hope no one else has to deal with Holidays like mine have been...

Onto the task at hand...

Wanted to point out to you, the issues of L50, C60 and those areas in the corner of where the PLL sits.

Might want to find a good, SOLID KNOWN GOOD grounding point to help you lessen the likelihood of false reads.

This corner section is case and point. RF shows up over here - in both the 10.240MHz kind as well as in the 36MHz realm as you have been seeing while you probe. This may put you and your readings into a bad light of off the chart voltages - all because RF presence in this region is pretty high - it needs to be - but you can't use or measure in this area unless you're using the right TP locations.

So, if you can - find some shield can or two paired together - and bridge them with a wire stem cut from some component =- put it in as a bridge to help you CLIP onto it your negative lead as you then have a less tedious and more hands-free tie-up to let you and the live probe (red lead) side to tap and tie into sections without worrying about the noise level raising the readings to give you phony results.

You found one area that is doing that right now, TR23, your one you've asked about 9 volts - yes, that's too high.

It can be from the "RF loop" this Tripler generates between the coil it "rings into" and the part that is the 1K and 0.01uF (103 Disc) - this area is a small transmitter - it can leak RF into your readings and be rectified thru the probe, meter or the parts your looking at - so again, focus on finding a good RF and DC Ground at the CENTER or near as possible to the CENTER or by the Power supply filter.

TR23 - pull that part and check it - it is a 1675, you can try a 1730 if in a pinch, but the 1675 has a pretty high Hfe as well as RF frequency range component versus the 1730 which can add noise unto itself doing this type of function - it makes a lot of square-waves if these two are pushed too hard. Both are high bandwidth amplifier parts - but work best in the uW (Micro) or mW (mili) watt scale.

The 1K sets the DC bias gain values, but the 0.01 (103 Disc) sets the upper RF limitations - so if its' going faulty - this would be suspect too - from simple drift off in values as it ages.

It's (Tr23 - Whole strip there in your graphic really) only trying to generate enough RF to make the Tripler work into the 35MHz range - not generate spurries above 70~80MHz (3rd harmonic of 27MHz) so if the caps gone shorted, it will look more like a DC short and will damage the transistor - so check that part against a known good one to make sure you are not getting bad readings.

You're having issues with more of the age of the assembly, so it's going to be touch and go for a while on this patient until the life-signs start getting more stronger and stabilize.

We're here as we can be - working right along side ya'.
 
right away when you plug in a radio and only get the meter lights and channel display that says that the MB3756 voltage reg is bad.

you said that the heatsink connected to this device was getting hot which also points to it.

however you are showing 8 volts on pin 9 of the PLL so that would say that the voltage reg is doing its job.

pin 10 of the PLL in this chassis should be grounded, and if it's not, it's because someone wanted to do a channel mod to it, so re-solder it where it went.

you have no voltage on pin 6 of the PLL which is your lock detector pin and it should be sitting at 8 volts. most likely this is because pin 10 is disconnected.

once you have pin 10 reconnected, check the voltage on pin 6, and you should get 8 volts.
if not, first thing to do is try to align the VCO coil per the service manual found here:
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/teaberry/stalker_xv/index.htm

if you still don't get RX/TX after all this as indicated by the LED, you can try lifting one end of D25.
if this restores operation, then the problem is in the lock detector circuit itself, if not, you have other PLL/VCO problems.
LC

While I'm still waiting for my new caps to arrive I have read this string over again. I see where I said I was going to wait to lift D25 until I had it recapped. Since I'm still waiting I have put in a new 10.240 Xtal, that didn't change any symptoms but I did lift D25 and it did restore TX LED function. Can you help explain what exactly taking the diode out actually did? Also I did hear and it was loud some type of noise not signal then it went away thru the external speaker. Almost like some capacitors were charging then stopped. Hearing this I'm assuming the audio amp is working or did it just blow up..lol ???? But anyway after hearing this when the noise stopped I immediately checked the XT function again. I thought something went horribly wrong but it still lit the XT led but also introduced some rf that my other radio picked up but no power out on the meter. Just trying to give you as much info as I can.
 
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Hello Richard,

received your order for the electrolytic capacitor kit for a PC-385 PCB, thank you. We missed the cutoff time for the last shipment time so it will ship out on Monday. Sorry you missed out as well on my Black Friday sale last week.

Regarding the MB8719, I purchased a few from this Chinese eBay seller a few years ago and they tested good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/360802117991

s-l400.jpg
 
Hello Richard,

received your order for the electrolytic capacitor kit for a PC-385 PCB, thank you. We missed the cutoff time for the last shipment time so it will ship out on Monday. Sorry you missed out as well on my Black Friday sale last week.

Regarding the MB8719, I purchased a few from this Chinese eBay seller a few years ago and they tested good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/360802117991

s-l400.jpg

Thank you,
Still a great deal. I placed my 1st order thru someone else and still haven't received it then I decided to try order from you. Its great that I just placed the order yesterday and you will be sending out on Monday. Thanks again!
 
While I'm still waiting for my new caps to arrive I have read this string over again. I see where I said I was going to wait to lift D25 until I had it recapped. Since I'm still waiting I have put in a new 10.240 Xtal, that didn't change any symptoms but I did lift D25 and it did restore TX LED function. Can you help explain what exactly taking the diode out actually did? Also I did hear and it was loud some type of noise not signal then it went away thru the external speaker. Almost like some capacitors were charging then stopped. Hearing this I'm assuming the audio amp is working or did it just blow up..lol ???? But anyway after hearing this when the noise stopped I immediately checked the XT function again. I thought something went horribly wrong but it still lit the XT led but also introduced some rf that my other radio picked up but no power out on the meter. Just trying to give you as much info as I can.

Just for info and some help - to help you understand.

You remove the TX "block" Diode. That is for the purpose to prevent - that, which is what you experienced.

When the PLL is out of lock, you don't know what channel you're on, or if you're even in the ballpark. You heard the noise because of this free running out of lock signal - because you took out the diode used to detect and PREVENT this from happening. The PLL is (trying to) doing it's job in keeping the radio in and on, the CB band.

This board uses a PLL system that runs ABOVE the frequencies of the CB band, but then "divides" this higher frequency (it) down using a SUBTRACTION (a method of mixing) and they use Lo-Pass filter methods to remove that 35~36MHz frequency the PLL uses to track itself - from leaking into the output of this section - it is otherwise a typical IF mixer from other CB's the use 16MHz IF (Below the CB Band of Frequencies')

You may want to look into Heterodyne and Images - these terms are used interchangeably when it comes to understanding the process of converting a higher RF-based signal into an IF process-able means to pull out those stations on your channel or frequency of choice

So if you need help - find your "Calculator" on your keyboard of Windows PC or your Phone and do some simple math - remember the 34~35 MHz issue, and subtract 27MHz - you'll see something close to 7.8 or 8MHz - look to your schematic and you'll see the radio (along with others similar) really have several different oscillators, one free runs with the PLL (your Tripler uses X3 ~11.25MHz Xtal) and 10.240 BASE (PLL) Xtal and makes that 34~35MHz mess you're experiencing - but needs to "lock it in" and then REMOVE some of it by mixing in your 7.8MHz at X4 - or uses the X3 one to do the same thing - only in steps of your IF CONVERSION it processes. for the RX mode, does it use a different process of applying the higher MHz signal to the 27MHz, leaving you with two images, one higher and way too high in MHz to be useful - so it's filtered off, the other lower Frequency image (Below the CB band), is then applied to another filter to clean it up and then amplify it. This process is the Conversion.

The X3 and X4 then help you obtain 10.240 standard IF and the 455kHz after it passes thru using X3 and X4 to obtain these IF frequencies.

Why so much into the IF part? Well, you can use a simple crystal radio "kit"...to receive...


upload_2020-12-6_9-6-45.png
Please don't...

Basic way to think this...

Generates 35MHz (approx. to save bandwidth) then uses it, at the PLL's choosing (locking in) of this 34~35MHz also uses 7.8MHz to SUBTRACT this 7.8MHz - from your 35MHz - to attain your selected channel in the 27MHz band.

So what we're trying to do here, is steer you in a direction of progress, is to make the PLL "lock" the 35MHz signal using it's own loop into the foray - to lock onto a precise frequency to obtain the needed images that IF can process.

The Channel Selector programs the divisor thru pins, to parse down the 35MHz into a working signal the PLL uses to "track" and control the loop - once in control - the PLL can declare "lock" and allow the Transmitter side to work.

Clear as mud right?
 
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Richard,

if pulling D25 did restore operation, then check D25 itself, TR45, D44, and TR37.

do you have a frequency counter?
LC
D25 tested good .6 D44 tested good .6
Richard,

if pulling D25 did restore operation, then check D25 itself, TR45, D44, and TR37.

do you have a frequency counter?
LC
OK -
D25 lifted - test good at 0.6
D44 lifted - test good at 0.59
TR45 - pulled out test good 0.63 both legs
TR37 - pulled out test good 0.61 both legs

TR37 - voltages while D25 lifted
B - RX 7.73v TX 0.7 v
C - RX 13.8v TX 58.8 mV
E - RX 7.52 TX 8mV

TR45 - voltages while D25 lifted
B - RX 7.93v TX 1.43v
C - Crazy unstable -mV up to 0.5v
E - RX 6.07v TX 0v
 
Update - I have been able to complete the PLL alignment according to the SAMS manual. Now I have TX/RX but no audio. The RF meter is moving showing incoming signal but no audio. In TX I have no output according to the external watt meter but I can hear my modulation in a nearby cb radio but only when in SSB not AM. On an external spectrum scope I can see the AM carrier but no modulation but as stated I do have modulation in SSB that I can see on the spectrum but no output power. With this info where would you start trouble shooting next? Thanks again for all the help.

I guess I should mention that it has been modified with the extra channels kit and clarifier lock.
 
Check C107. A 220uf 10-Volt electrolytic. If it shorts, you have no audio from the volume control to the speaker amp. S-meter still kicks around, just no audio.

I got in the habit of just taking one leg loose. If this restores scratchy-sounding audio, a new one should make it sound normal again. And if it makes no difference, I install a new cap since it's almost guaranteed to cause trouble later.

73
 
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Update - Found crystal socket on the xtra channel board loose, reflowed. Checked TA7222P AF output - voltages were bad. Replaced and now have audio. Still have an issue with voltage at pin#2 manual states 3v but my reading is 6.63v. Pin#5 & 6 states 1.8v my readings are 1.15v on each. Didn't know if that .6v will make a difference somewhere. I now have TX modulation also. It had very minimal output power - checked the voltages TR#41 was 13.8 on the collector in receive then in TX dropped to 0. Moved on to TR#40 0v collector in RX and 1.4v in transmit manual states 7.6v. TR#39 13.2v collector RX and 3.7v TX manual states 5v. While checking these the collector voltages then started working on TR#39 & 41 and then I had output wattage so I checked for cold/bad solder joints didn't see anything so I just reflowed. Still only 1.4v on TR40 in TX. It worked fine for a few hours and when I started the two tone into the mic I lost output power again. Checked and the voltages were gone again just on the collector TX. While checking them again I again have the 5v back but very minimal output power. 1/2w AM 1w pep SSB. I thought I would check the Bias and I have no BIAS current and nothing when I go to adjust at TP8 & 7 just sits at 0. I have replaced capacitors 191,215,162 in the BIAS section still no difference. I have removed TR41,40,39 and 34 on tester - tested ok. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im getting close just need some more direction.
 
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Check C107. A 220uf 10-Volt electrolytic. If it shorts, you have no audio from the volume control to the speaker amp. S-meter still kicks around, just no audio.

I got in the habit of just taking one leg loose. If this restores scratchy-sounding audio, a new one should make it sound normal again. And if it makes no difference, I install a new cap since it's almost guaranteed to cause trouble later.

73
I tried working on this step of the alignment process.
upload_2020-12-19_10-52-14.png but when adjusting L26,27,28,29 - no response when moving the slug. L36 did show a response and was able to adjust. Any thoughts to help lead me in the right direction? For my first attempt of troubleshooting a cb this was prob not the right one to start with. lol
 
This radio uses Mechanical switch - multiple pole type, so while you are STARTING to get it working, when you have ZERO bias, that usually means the radio is still looking for power in specific areas.

Zero Bias in he TX BIAS section tells me that the TX light, if it's on, means power to that section is good, it's the resistors like R149 (100 ohm) on the Final, and R152 220ohm - along with their power filter caps like C125 and C191 - these are 10V caps that can easily act liek resistors and suck away the 8 votls TX side power from those lines all day at their age.

upload_2020-12-19_12-14-45.png

There's even a few discrepancies on the silkscreen to Number labels...
upload_2020-12-19_12-19-20.png
You have AT LEAST two poles that run votlages with soem heavy current thru them..

If they can't make power flow thru the route to the parts they feed, then look for blown traces or at least a CONTINUITY CHECK and VOLTAGE read along the rail (Power feed trace) to that section from these switches.

It's why I usually groan over this but when you're dealing with one making a board for another - their hands are not seeing what those other hands are doing to their stuff...
 
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This radio uses Mechanical switch - multiple pole type, so while you are STARTING to get it working, when you have ZERO bias, that usually means the radio is still looking for power in specific areas.

Zero Bias in he TX BIAS section tells me that the TX light, if it's on, means power to that section is good, it's the resistors like R149 (100 ohm) on the Final, and R152 220ohm - along with their power filter caps like C125 and C191 - these are 10V caps that can easily act liek resistors and suck away the 8 votls TX side power from those lines all day at their age.

View attachment 42088

There's even a few discrepancies on the silkscreen to Number labels...
View attachment 42089
You have AT LEAST two poles that run votlages with soem heavy current thru them..

If they can't make power flow thru the route to the parts they feed, then look for blown traces or at least a CONTINUITY CHECK and VOLTAGE read along the rail (Power feed trace) to that section from these switches.

It's why I usually groan over this but when you're dealing with one making a board for another - their hands are not seeing what those other hands are doing to their stuff...
Thanks again for helping me along. I have already changed the caps 191,162 and 215 I changed those a couple days ago. They were all bad. TR#25&34 have correct voltages so I think the switch and trace are ok. Is that correct or am I missing something?
 

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