Thanks for the insight.
So the meter need to have a current Calibration Certificate. That sounds like a legal official standard measurement, who has those?
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Test meter suggestions?
- Thread starter G-Golly Wally
- Start date
So the meter need to have a current Calibration Certificate. That sounds like a legal official standard measurement, who has those?
There are very few hams that have quote “NIST Calibrated Watt“ meters! The more accurate meters are Bird, Telepost and Array Solutions. Regarding a retail outlet calibrating a meter before they ship it out…not happening. Would I trust a Bird 43 out of the box over a Daiwa, Dosy, MFJ, Heathkit, Yaesu or Autek ABSOLUTELY! A new Bird 43P with 4 elements is roughly $1300-$1400 and a new Telepost LP700 with two couplers is roughly $1075. Every MFJ or Diawa meter I have ever owned (more than 7 less than 12)was calibrated against either my Bird 43P or Telepost LP700…no they don’t have an NIST traceable calibration certificate. Hands down the Bird 43 is more accurate than Daiwa, Dosy, MFJ, Heathkit, Yaesu or Autek. Both my Flukes 87V Max and 289 have NIST traceable calibration certificates.
What is not so accurate regarding the BIrd 43 is taking a 500-1000 watt slug and measuring 50 watts. One should always try to use an element close to the expect power output of the radio being measured. Don’t use a 100 watt element to measure for a 1-2 watt output…drop down to a 25 watt element or less. The reason Bird meters get pricey is your investment in the elements for various power ranges and frequencies.
In reality most people on this forum are not going to drop any serious coin into a watt meter or dummy load. We’re just looking for relative readings. I like how Walcott Radio post two sets of power readings…one from a Bird 43 and the other a Dosy so people can see the differences. Heck I’d trust the power output meter in my Ham radio gear as much as I would a Daiwa, Dosy, MFJ, Heathkit, Yaesu or Autek maybe more so. I always get a kick when someone has bought a radio or amp I’ve had for sale. I always post the power output either from a Bird or Telepost in my listings. They’ll email me back and say “Oh that radio/amp you sold me puts out more than you said it did.” Hey I don’t argue they’re happy…I’m happy. After the power output readings I try to verify their accuracy to some degree based on voltage/amperage readings.
In my experimentation with various Bird elements there are slight differences even between two identical elements…not huge (still within meter specifications) but discernible on the Bird 43 meter face.
Enjoy the hobby be it CB or Ham…don’t fret over a few watts.
Brad
KE0XS
South of Pittsburgh
What is not so accurate regarding the BIrd 43 is taking a 500-1000 watt slug and measuring 50 watts. One should always try to use an element close to the expect power output of the radio being measured. Don’t use a 100 watt element to measure for a 1-2 watt output…drop down to a 25 watt element or less. The reason Bird meters get pricey is your investment in the elements for various power ranges and frequencies.
In reality most people on this forum are not going to drop any serious coin into a watt meter or dummy load. We’re just looking for relative readings. I like how Walcott Radio post two sets of power readings…one from a Bird 43 and the other a Dosy so people can see the differences. Heck I’d trust the power output meter in my Ham radio gear as much as I would a Daiwa, Dosy, MFJ, Heathkit, Yaesu or Autek maybe more so. I always get a kick when someone has bought a radio or amp I’ve had for sale. I always post the power output either from a Bird or Telepost in my listings. They’ll email me back and say “Oh that radio/amp you sold me puts out more than you said it did.” Hey I don’t argue they’re happy…I’m happy. After the power output readings I try to verify their accuracy to some degree based on voltage/amperage readings.
In my experimentation with various Bird elements there are slight differences even between two identical elements…not huge (still within meter specifications) but discernible on the Bird 43 meter face.
Enjoy the hobby be it CB or Ham…don’t fret over a few watts.
Brad
KE0XS
South of Pittsburgh
@NightThumper I for one appreciate the information you put on here.
Makes good sense to me.
Yep, let's enjoy it, while we are here.
Makes good sense to me.
Yep, let's enjoy it, while we are here.
If you want a good read on the calibration of Watt meters here’s a link: Calibration
Read some of the negative reviews on Eham regarding the bird 43.
Read about the calorimeter.
Get a Keysight E4418B or the Keysight 432A + 8478B or how about a Boonton
Get whatever meter trips your trigger after all it’s all RELATIVE.
Read some of the negative reviews on Eham regarding the bird 43.
Read about the calorimeter.
Get a Keysight E4418B or the Keysight 432A + 8478B or how about a Boonton
Get whatever meter trips your trigger after all it’s all RELATIVE.
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I received my Diawa watt meter Friday, and as far as I can tell everything seems to work as it's supposed to. I have a swr meter that I know works correctly and it matches the swr readings from the Diawa. Plus another that I was gifted awhile back and it matches everything with the Diawa also, so now I know that it works too!
Mine read pwr and swr, but swr was a little on the eegghh,,side. Back it went.
I pulled the trigger and ordered a LP-100a to end this cycle of returning meters.
Glad to hear that yours is working out for ya! Enjoy!
I picked one up last week from there. Open box. Lordy...those meter lights do get warm. Wish they were led.
It seems to work alright, I don't know if I would recommend one, but for the money it's not bad.