Texas Star 350HDV

[9C1Driver]

Nice chart, just remember they are NOT saying you can dead key 20 watts into them. Thats 20 watts peak.

 

[BOOTY MONSTER]

correct . was just linking to manufacturer infor for amp requirements .

 

[freecell]

"If your getting 375 actual watts........"
it's an illusion. WYSINWYG, not @ 27 Mhz..

 

[The Jerk]

I have an older 350HDV...can't remember the input from the radio, but I get about 200 watts peak out of it, and figure that's a good number. As Booty pointed out, will it really make much of a difference squeezing out every last watt?

Since these amplifiers on SSB draw power similar to a car stereo amplifier (their intended use); a stereo capacitor, to help with voltage spikes during modulation, may help on SSB where the power draw spikes when modulation spikes...doubtful it would do much on straight AM since you are simply drawing maximum amps at keyup to support the carrier.

Just my thoughts...besides, what would adding a capacitor really hurt? I have a 1F capacitor that I want to install at some point...when I get the time.

 

[Ay589]

ok thanks for answering my question..... I'll settle for the 375 watts LOL

this is real old, but where the heck are you getting 375 watts from a dx350? Ive got an old black widow 350 and ts 350 and both are 130 watts on my bird! it made me very sad to see that!

 

[9C1Driver]

Bird 43 or 43P? What drive levels are you running it at? What voltage? While it does seem like strong numbers maybe he has a friendly watt meter, who knows.

My own example when I ran one was this. Uniden Madison in LSB mode peaking at 16-18 watts. Texas Star 350 HDV (Toshiba finals) powered by an Astron 35M at 14 volts. Running the amp wide open green button out my Aries A460 meter would hit 340-355 watts with a loud steady AUDIO into the mic.

 

[Ay589]

Bird 43 or 43P? What drive levels are you running it at? What voltage? While it does seem like strong numbers maybe he has a friendly watt meter, who knows.

My own example when I ran one was this. Uniden Madison in LSB mode peaking at 16-18 watts. Texas Star 350 HDV (Toshiba finals) powered by an Astron 35M at 14 volts. Running the amp wide open green button out my Aries A460 meter would hit 340-355 watts with a loud steady AUDIO into the mic.

My TS dx350hdv same toshiba finals with a bird 43 (not peak) it keys 100 and actually drops to 70 speaking Gotta figure that out. On my cheap workman meter it deadkeys 260 on my uniden Washington on am 4 watts swingin 12-15 with a tekpower 50amp at 13.8v

 

[222DBFL]

Your dead key is too high at 4 watts. Should be around 1-2 watts max for that amp. Your pep power is okay, but 4 watts of dead key into that amp is just too much IMO.

 

[222DBFL]

Also ditch the workman meter and get something that will read PEP power and not Average or what a lot call RMS. Those Workman meters aren't very good for much else than to tune your antenna in a pinch. That is JMHO. Get something like a Diawa CN101. They are a true peak reading meter that has voltage to it and will read actual peak readings and hold them. There are plenty of other meter you can get that are a lot better than the small Workman meters.
Even an old radio shack meter would be better than the Workman. But then again, they aren't a true PEP meter, but are a decently accurate set/power meter for the money. If you can find one at a closing Radio Shack you might be able to get it for cheap. Also check EBay and your local Craigslist for postings, as many are getting out of the hobby at the moment.
Last, but not least, make sure your antenna system is at its best. When you add power, even a couple hundred watts, any issues are amplified as well. Definitely get your dead key down to at least 2 watts max. A variable power added to the radio would be the best route.
Then you can dial it in to have a 1:4 power ratio. Key up 50-75 watts carrier on AM MAX., and swing to 2-300 watts PEP. Should be good to go. You want to keep the amp for a long time, keep the power levels at about 200-250 watts max at 13.8vdc-14.2vdc. Again, these are just my opinions, but trying to squeeze every watt out of one isn't going to do much at all if anything, other than possibly blow your amp. Like I said, I would find a radio, a single final one, or use one of the ones you have, and have a variable power added or at least have the dead key dropped down to match the amp. Again, it's JMHO, but I'd get variable power added to one of your existing radios. And don't have the radio cranked wide open either. A good 1:4 power ratio will work fine for them as well on AM. SSB, keep power at about 15-20 watts max. AM, 8-10 watts pep. These are JMHO's. Good luck and be safe with that amp. Toshiba transistors are not cheap anymore. You'll spend more for 2 transistors and the work to put them in then you probably paid for it!! Hope this text wall helps. And have a good one.

 

[Ay589]

Also ditch the workman meter and get something that will read PEP power and not Average or what a lot call RMS. Those Workman meters aren't very good for much else than to tune your antenna in a pinch. That is JMHO. Get something like a Diawa CN101. They are a true peak reading meter that has voltage to it and will read actual peak readings and hold them. There are plenty of other meter you can get that are a lot better than the small Workman meters.
Even an old radio shack meter would be better than the Workman. But then again, they aren't a true PEP meter, but are a decently accurate set/power meter for the money. If you can find one at a closing Radio Shack you might be able to get it for cheap. Also check EBay and your local Craigslist for postings, as many are getting out of the hobby at the moment.
Last, but not least, make sure your antenna system is at its best. When you add power, even a couple hundred watts, any issues are amplified as well. Definitely get your dead key down to at least 2 watts max. A variable power added to the radio would be the best route.
Then you can dial it in to have a 1:4 power ratio. Key up 50-75 watts carrier on AM MAX., and swing to 2-300 watts PEP. Should be good to go. You want to keep the amp for a long time, keep the power levels at about 200-250 watts max at 13.8vdc-14.2vdc. Again, these are just my opinions, but trying to squeeze every watt out of one isn't going to do much at all if anything, other than possibly blow your amp. Like I said, I would find a radio, a single final one, or use one of the ones you have, and have a variable power added or at least have the dead key dropped down to match the amp. Again, it's JMHO, but I'd get variable power added to one of your existing radios. And don't have the radio cranked wide open either. A good 1:4 power ratio will work fine for them as well on AM. SSB, keep power at about 15-20 watts max. AM, 8-10 watts pep. These are JMHO's. Good luck and be safe with that amp. Toshiba transistors are not cheap anymore. You'll spend more for 2 transistors and the work to put them in then you probably paid for it!! Hope this text wall helps. And have a good one.

Your dead key is too high at 4 watts. Should be around 1-2 watts max for that amp. Your pep power is okay, but 4 watts of dead key into that amp is just too much IMO.

I thought the whole point of me having a variable amplifier is so I could run whatever power I like into the amp! (To an extent) Hence the name of the amp "high drive variable, hdv" I don't want to ruin my audio by dropping my dead key down to 2 watts as I hear many other guys in my group sounding over modulated now from
That.

 

[Ay589]

Also ditch the workman meter and get something that will read PEP power and not Average or what a lot call RMS. Those Workman meters aren't very good for much else than to tune your antenna in a pinch. That is JMHO. Get something like a Diawa CN101. They are a true peak reading meter that has voltage to it and will read actual peak readings and hold them. There are plenty of other meter you can get that are a lot better than the small Workman meters.
Even an old radio shack meter would be better than the Workman. But then again, they aren't a true PEP meter, but are a decently accurate set/power meter for the money. If you can find one at a closing Radio Shack you might be able to get it for cheap. Also check EBay and your local Craigslist for postings, as many are getting out of the hobby at the moment.
Last, but not least, make sure your antenna system is at its best. When you add power, even a couple hundred watts, any issues are amplified as well. Definitely get your dead key down to at least 2 watts max. A variable power added to the radio would be the best route.
Then you can dial it in to have a 1:4 power ratio. Key up 50-75 watts carrier on AM MAX., and swing to 2-300 watts PEP. Should be good to go. You want to keep the amp for a long time, keep the power levels at about 200-250 watts max at 13.8vdc-14.2vdc. Again, these are just my opinions, but trying to squeeze every watt out of one isn't going to do much at all if anything, other than possibly blow your amp. Like I said, I would find a radio, a single final one, or use one of the ones you have, and have a variable power added or at least have the dead key dropped down to match the amp. Again, it's JMHO, but I'd get variable power added to one of your existing radios. And don't have the radio cranked wide open either. A good 1:4 power ratio will work fine for them as well on AM. SSB, keep power at about 15-20 watts max. AM, 8-10 watts pep. These are JMHO's. Good luck and be safe with that amp. Toshiba transistors are not cheap anymore. You'll spend more for 2 transistors and the work to put them in then you probably paid for it!! Hope this text wall helps. And have a good one.

And as for the meter. That workman is a pile, I don't ever use it except for to just double check my swr once a week before I get on the radio, I only mentioned the workman as a joke because they are the power happy meters that tell you all sorts of mystical powers lol! But either way, I appreciate the input as I'm new in this game so any info is good.

 

[222DBFL]

That amp is not a HIGH DRIVE amp!! That is a load of BS!! I won't post anymore about it. But I'll leave you with this. That amp in no way, shape, or form is a "high drive" amp. WTF does high drive mean?? They pad the heck out of the input so you can key more power into the amp?? Or did I miss something?? That High Drive crap is just that, a load of CRAP!! Talk to a real amp tech or builder and they'll tell you about where you need to set your dead key. I'll bet it's the same answer I gave you. A 1:4 power ratio. Dead key 50 watts swing to 200 watts and so on. 1:4 ratio of power. An dropping your dead key on the radio won't make you ruin your audio. Another CB myth I take it?? Don't beleive the BS. Read up on how to use that amp the correct way and it will last you a while. Keep keying 4 watts dead key into it and it will eventually burn up something!! But hey what the heck do I know, I haven't run an amp in a while. My amps are all put up for now.
Anyways, good luck and hope you get the answer you Want To Hear!! Good day.

 

[9C1Driver]

I thought the whole point of me having a variable amplifier is so I could run whatever power I like into the amp! (To an extent) Hence the name of the amp "high drive variable, hdv" I don't want to ruin my audio by dropping my dead key down to 2 watts as I hear many other guys in my group sounding over modulated now from
That.

You thought wrong, 1-2 watts for a Texas Star 350 HDV. Reason is that variable control pot is a 2.5 watt pot, dead key more then that and you will burn a spot in it and then it won't function right. The next thing you will do is in short time knock the keying transistor out, it's a small black 3 legged little part. And last your amp will run very very hot over driving it like that. The term HD and High Drive get stamped on many amplifiers because it looks good and sells even better.


Here is a nice article on the Texas Star 350, the same pretty much applies for the HDV version.

http://www.cbradiomagazine.com/Amplifier Reviews/Texas Star DX350/Texas Star 350DX Review.html

 

[Ay589]

That amp is not a HIGH DRIVE amp!! That is a load of BS!! I won't post anymore about it. But I'll leave you with this. That amp in no way, shape, or form is a "high drive" amp. WTF does high drive mean?? They pad the heck out of the input so you can key more power into the amp?? Or did I miss something?? That High Drive crap is just that, a load of CRAP!! Talk to a real amp tech or builder and they'll tell you about where you need to set your dead key. I'll bet it's the same answer I gave you. A 1:4 power ratio. Dead key 50 watts swing to 200 watts and so on. 1:4 ratio of power. An dropping your dead key on the radio won't make you ruin your audio. Another CB myth I take it?? Don't beleive the BS. Read up on how to use that amp the correct way and it will last you a while. Keep keying 4 watts dead key into it and it will eventually burn up something!! But hey what the heck do I know, I haven't run an amp in a while. My amps are all put up for now.
Anyways, good luck and hope you get the answer you Want To Hear!! Good day.

I'm not disagreeing with you what so ever, not tryin to argue or be a smarty pants, civil conversation is how we all learn! What the hell is it with you guys flipping out. Calm your temper please. I am stating what I've been told by a so called "experienced users" as you claim to be also ( and I'm not saying you aren't good) Texas star advertises this amplifier as "high drive" I'm not saying it is, I'm just stating what they claim it is and what they say to run it at. I understand the 1:4 power ratio and that's what it is supposed to be regardless what your power is. 4 watts you swing to 16ish. 50 your max is 200 400 watts you're gonna want to swing to about 1600 and so on. Like I said before I'm new with this and the only information I have is from guys like you in this forum and others so please be patient before anyone else blows up on me! On a side node lol, the only reason I check my swr constantly is due to paranoia from my 30 year old a99 that I rebuilt the connection on and get worried it may come loose or corrode but no issues yet!

 

[Ay589]

You thought wrong, 1-2 watts for a Texas Star 350 HDV. Reason is that variable control pot is a 2.5 watt pot, dead key more then that and you will burn a spot in it and then it won't function right. The next thing you will do is in short time knock the keying transistor out, it's a small black 3 legged little part. And last your amp will run very very hot over driving it like that. The term HD and High Drive get stamped on many amplifiers because it looks good and sells even better.


Here is a nice article on the Texas Star 350, the same pretty much applies for the HDV version.

http://www.cbradiomagazine.com/Amplifier Reviews/Texas Star DX350/Texas Star 350DX Review.html

Thank you 9c1 for a civil response. I want to learn, not get yelled at for asking questions lol. By the way, you own or owned a 9c1? I had a 96 impala and 95 9c1. Best damn cars I ever had! (Not to mention the burnouts!)