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true output 949/galaxy
- Thread starter double xl
- Start date
double post from this one: http://www.worldwidedx.com/cb-band-cb-radios/126894-949-output.html
18w 43p
18w 43p
????
Doubt that you could get 25 watts out of that radio even if you keyed up the mic next to a tornado warning siren.
Don't know why would anyone want to push the output final beyond what it is capable doing on a continuous level. It would only force it to fail if you did. Nope; they were designed for 20 watts. You can't spend $10 f you only have $5.
If it has the MOSFET final in it and you made some particular changes to a couple of the caps in the output stage, you might milk up to 30 watts out of it. A non MOSFET final radio should do no more than 16 watts if done right.
The real value in a peak and tune is to be sure that modulation is matched to the mic you are going to use with it.
Or matched up to a linear amp. Its not about 'how many watts'; but how well the watts sound.
If you need more power, than a simple 100 watt linear with the radio's modulation and output matched up and adjusted by a tech will have the best results. Besides, its not the radio that gets out; it is the kid of antenna you use and just how well it has been optimized. I'd pick a mediocre radio with a great antenna over an expensive radio and a junk antenna - any day.
Doubt that you could get 25 watts out of that radio even if you keyed up the mic next to a tornado warning siren.
Don't know why would anyone want to push the output final beyond what it is capable doing on a continuous level. It would only force it to fail if you did. Nope; they were designed for 20 watts. You can't spend $10 f you only have $5.
If it has the MOSFET final in it and you made some particular changes to a couple of the caps in the output stage, you might milk up to 30 watts out of it. A non MOSFET final radio should do no more than 16 watts if done right.
The real value in a peak and tune is to be sure that modulation is matched to the mic you are going to use with it.
Or matched up to a linear amp. Its not about 'how many watts'; but how well the watts sound.
If you need more power, than a simple 100 watt linear with the radio's modulation and output matched up and adjusted by a tech will have the best results. Besides, its not the radio that gets out; it is the kid of antenna you use and just how well it has been optimized. I'd pick a mediocre radio with a great antenna over an expensive radio and a junk antenna - any day.
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What in the world is a tech watt? Is it figured by some form of the P=I X V equation?
The final device is only capable of 20 watts max. But it is unwise to run it that high. Meters aren't that accurate, except for the Bird and only a select few others.
On AM mode, if the Bird tech can tell you that you are dead keying 4 watts with a peak power of 16 watts - that would be ideal. A 4:1 ratio of dead key to PEP (peak envelope power) with 100% modulation is correct.
On SSB, it will probably swing to 18 watts if he adjusted the ALC and the waveform looks is unclipped/undistorted on an oscilloscope. Most techs know this, or they don't stay in business too long . . .
On AM mode, if the Bird tech can tell you that you are dead keying 4 watts with a peak power of 16 watts - that would be ideal. A 4:1 ratio of dead key to PEP (peak envelope power) with 100% modulation is correct.
On SSB, it will probably swing to 18 watts if he adjusted the ALC and the waveform looks is unclipped/undistorted on an oscilloscope. Most techs know this, or they don't stay in business too long . . .
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I have a General Lee that keys 2 and swings to 10 watts on a Bird43. It swings to 35 watts on a Dosy and I have read posts where people are claiming 50-60 watts.
You need to change the term "Tech Watts" to "Bullshitting Cber Watts". :laugh:
The Bird isn't particularly accurate -- ±5% FS for average and ±8% FS for PEP (if the PEP circuitry is installed) isn't all that impressive.
What the Bird IS, is rugged. It still needs to be recalibrated every year; more often if you bang it around in the field.
It's no paragon of "accuracy", though.
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@ kingmudduck:So I have a cobra 138xlr and the meter dose not work... It dose not key up and signal dose not work.... It is not stuck it the meter moves freely. now wires are resoldered on both ends...So now that do I look at. Could it be a diode or a transistor?
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