the wiring i gave ya should work if not check battery is making good contact, if ok then clean the relay leaves, as old as this mike is there is a high chance they are corroded or burned,, these mikes have a tendency to have the negative battery leaf get dirty and need cleaned,,, the adjustment needs to be checked and maybe deoxed,,,
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Turner +2 ssb mic pinout to HR-2510
- Thread starter radiomaniacc
- Start date
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UPDATE:
Tried the above wiring scheme - NO GOOD....The connections are tight and clean, battery is new have already cleaned contacts but, will go back and do it again...If this won't work, I will have to ck continuity of all the wires start to finish and see what happens from there.... The radio WILL KEY and will resume it;s recieve when mic released....Back to this I go...This mic is soon to be a flower planter shortly!
Check to make sure the battery lead is also switch/engaged when keyed. Can't recall if it is the negative lead or positive lead from the battery.
It is also not uncommon for mike elements to be bad. Just a thought.
73
David
It is also not uncommon for mike elements to be bad. Just a thought.
73
David
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After my first test in which I stated I had no audio, did 2nd test with same results... I looked over and FORGOT to put in battery after last test!!..(I am never gonna live this one down!)...."MF'er!...The 2nd test WITH BATTERY same results.
Anyway, Have another MF'ing problem - yellow wire popped off the circuit board directly under the variable resistor (volume)..Anyone have a pict of bottom internal?
BJ radionut
Supporting Member and 6m addict
I have been told that there were some differences in the Turner 2 desk mic,
> but here is how mine is currently wired.
> Lets see if I can make at least a little sense out of this. There is a left
> and a right side, with 3 pins on each side. There is also the relay switch
> with pins 1,2,3 going down. Lets start on the left.
> On the very top there is a ground spade screwed into the switch. It has the
> mic wire shield on it that also connects to pin 1 of the relay switch.
> There is also a black jumper here that goes over to the bottom right pin
> The top left pin has the red mic cord wire plus a red jumper going to the
> bottom relay switch.
> The middle left pin has a black jumper going to pin 2 of the relay switch.
> The bottom left pin has the black cord wire going to it.
> Now to the right side. The top pin has the black battery wire on it.
> The middle right pin has the white cord wire plus a yellow wire that goes to
> the volume knob, connected to the "-" side of the silver looking capacitor.
> The bottom right side has the black jumper to ground and another black wire
> that connects to the ground tab on the volume switch.
mic wiring for Turner 2 (redwaveradio.com)
> but here is how mine is currently wired.
> Lets see if I can make at least a little sense out of this. There is a left
> and a right side, with 3 pins on each side. There is also the relay switch
> with pins 1,2,3 going down. Lets start on the left.
> On the very top there is a ground spade screwed into the switch. It has the
> mic wire shield on it that also connects to pin 1 of the relay switch.
> There is also a black jumper here that goes over to the bottom right pin
> The top left pin has the red mic cord wire plus a red jumper going to the
> bottom relay switch.
> The middle left pin has a black jumper going to pin 2 of the relay switch.
> The bottom left pin has the black cord wire going to it.
> Now to the right side. The top pin has the black battery wire on it.
> The middle right pin has the white cord wire plus a yellow wire that goes to
> the volume knob, connected to the "-" side of the silver looking capacitor.
> The bottom right side has the black jumper to ground and another black wire
> that connects to the ground tab on the volume switch.
mic wiring for Turner 2 (redwaveradio.com)
Can someone help me fit my big toe into the trigger guard of this shotgun!?
Ok, I just scanned the above post - will re-read it, see if i can find connections, re-solder BOTH ends back in place and re-try...
**Just read the link(s) supplied...Ok, gonna take a break before I take a torch to this stuff....Will get back to this after a while which will give all a chance to grab some aspirin!
Ok, I just scanned the above post - will re-read it, see if i can find connections, re-solder BOTH ends back in place and re-try...
**Just read the link(s) supplied...Ok, gonna take a break before I take a torch to this stuff....Will get back to this after a while which will give all a chance to grab some aspirin!
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Well, I hope I got yellow wire to where it is supposed to go!......Re-tested - no good
.....Trying to look around for a temporary-use mic cartridge of any sort and not having much luck.....May give up for the night..HEY!, THANKS ALL FOR THE ASSISTANCE - I MAY RE-VISIT THIS LATER OR TOMORROW..
.....Trying to look around for a temporary-use mic cartridge of any sort and not having much luck.....May give up for the night..HEY!, THANKS ALL FOR THE ASSISTANCE - I MAY RE-VISIT THIS LATER OR TOMORROW..https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/adapter-selector/
You can go to this link ^^^^^^ and buy the adapter cable you need.
73
David
You can go to this link ^^^^^^ and buy the adapter cable you need.
73
David
UPDATE -
Today, I looked at battery connector and when I would clip it onto the battery and insert into "holder" in bottom of mic, I found today that the wires to the top of the clip covered in "plastic", sometimes would not make good contact with the battery clip - I suspect a broken wire or corroded wire IN the battery clip.... and I would get no voltage - other times it would. Those times it wouldn't may have been when I was moving plug wires around....Go figure.
I found a package of radio shack new
9 vdc connectors and applied the connector to battery top and measured voltage - no problem....Then, I ran alligator clips to the connections where the battery voltage is supposed to be applied and keyed up into a dummy load...VOILA!...The meter showed modulation and that is good enough for me.....I do not remember where I got this mic from about 35 years ago(?) but, it appeared that the "+" and "-" connections were switched around - reverse polarity. So, all I have left to do now is wire in a new battery clip connector and button it up.
***I wish legitimately to thank all those whom helped in this endeavor by posting facts, diagrams, and other information about this, that it came to a good and successful conclusion!
I will follow this up in a few days about troubleshooting an ICOM desk mic!...UGH!
Today, I looked at battery connector and when I would clip it onto the battery and insert into "holder" in bottom of mic, I found today that the wires to the top of the clip covered in "plastic", sometimes would not make good contact with the battery clip - I suspect a broken wire or corroded wire IN the battery clip.... and I would get no voltage - other times it would. Those times it wouldn't may have been when I was moving plug wires around....Go figure.
I found a package of radio shack new
9 vdc connectors and applied the connector to battery top and measured voltage - no problem....Then, I ran alligator clips to the connections where the battery voltage is supposed to be applied and keyed up into a dummy load...VOILA!...The meter showed modulation and that is good enough for me
.....I do not remember where I got this mic from about 35 years ago(?) but, it appeared that the "+" and "-" connections were switched around - reverse polarity. So, all I have left to do now is wire in a new battery clip connector and button it up.***I wish legitimately to thank all those whom helped in this endeavor by posting facts, diagrams, and other information about this, that it came to a good and successful conclusion!
I will follow this up in a few days about troubleshooting an ICOM desk mic!...UGH!
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RE: - The next project...
Pulled the above listed mic apart this morning -
1)...ck'ed continuity from plug pins at connector to mic base, proves wiring between radio and mic base intact,
2)...ck'ed continuity to all connections (volume pot included) and all soldered connections to amp circuit board(small amp board inside base),
3)...bypassed amp board by moving white audio wire to direct connection,
4)...had non-amplified audio which indicates mic element good,
3)...seems to indicate that issue is on the amp board.
I did try this mic on both an ICOM-730 and 751 PRIOR, and which at one time did work on each...No longer working this date.
Tried stock ICOM hand mics on each radio and again those mics worked except this mic (IC-SM-5).....This has some components on it that i cannot identify.
With that said, anyone know a replacement board can be purchased?...Thanks in advance again!
Pulled the above listed mic apart this morning -
1)...ck'ed continuity from plug pins at connector to mic base, proves wiring between radio and mic base intact,
2)...ck'ed continuity to all connections (volume pot included) and all soldered connections to amp circuit board(small amp board inside base),
3)...bypassed amp board by moving white audio wire to direct connection,
4)...had non-amplified audio which indicates mic element good,
3)...seems to indicate that issue is on the amp board.
I did try this mic on both an ICOM-730 and 751 PRIOR, and which at one time did work on each...No longer working this date.
Tried stock ICOM hand mics on each radio and again those mics worked except this mic (IC-SM-5).....This has some components on it that i cannot identify.
With that said, anyone know a replacement board can be purchased?...Thanks in advance again!
Tower Power,
Except for the FET, all parts appear to be identified on the schematic. There may well be a "number" imprinted on the FET??
If the FET is good, it wouldn't be difficult to replace all of the other components. If there is a part number on the FET, that may be available or a suitable substitute could be used to replace it.
Perhaps a complete board can be obtained from Icom??
73
David
Except for the FET, all parts appear to be identified on the schematic. There may well be a "number" imprinted on the FET??
If the FET is good, it wouldn't be difficult to replace all of the other components. If there is a part number on the FET, that may be available or a suitable substitute could be used to replace it.
Perhaps a complete board can be obtained from Icom??
73
David