Let's see if I'm getting the right interpretation of this.
Originally Posted by C2 View Post
"Yes, but we are talking real world where the source impedance is never going to be zero."
I have to agree with this, I've never seen a '0' impedance. I have seen a '0' difference in impedances, but that's a completely different thing.
"You do worry too much about SWR. The instruments generally used are far too crude anyway."
I agree -IF- you are trying to tune an antenna only using an SWR meter. It can only give you "it's" reading of SWR which can certainly not be a 50ohm Zero reactance reading of '1:1'. An SWR meter can't distinguish the difference, doesn't understand reactances at all. Like it or not, an SWR meter's positioning does definitely make a difference. That 'crude' doesn't refer to who made the SWR meter, but that meter's ability to tell you pertinent information.
"You should never be as worried about conjugate match (or even impedance matching) as much as you should about power transfer."
I agree. The whole idea of keeping impedances at least close to the same values (transmitter's output, feed lines, etc.) is to get the maximum transfer of power to the antenna, which should also have the same characteristic impedance as the rest of the antenna system. If the characteristic impedances of the components of that antenna system are all about the same, then the only losses would be in the 'resistive' nature of the feed line's length.
"This is why I prefer cross-needle meters when tuning antennas as I am able to maximize forward power as well as minimize reflection."
I like cross-needle meters too! They can tell you a lot more than just an SWR meter. You have the amount of forward power, the amount of reflected power, which if the meter is constructed properly means that where the two needles cross is the SWR scale.
All of the above is dealing only with impedance matching between components of the 'system', it does/says nothing about how well the antenna at the end of that 'system' is going to work, only that it is getting the most/best transfer of power. That's only 'half' of tuning an antenna. The other half deals with the antenna being resonant, having no un-neutralized reactance present -IN- the antenna. Reactances don't radiate anything, they contribute to a loss of radiation if they are found in an antenna. The idea is to get rid of them. If there are no reactances present in the antenna, and if the antenna's 'radiation resistance' is at least close to 50 ohms, then the thing will radiate very well.
that's where you start getting into another aspect of how well an antenna radiates. That deals with it's radiation pattern, which is always a function of the antenna's length. You can make almost anything resonant, you only have to add the correct amount of the right kind of reactance to the thing which will neutralize any reactance in it already... Ta Da... it's resonant! Is that good? Yes, as far as it goes. It'll radiate every bit of the power reaching it. But, what if that antenna is only a 'rubber-duck', which just doesn't have the bestest radiation pattern in the world? See where that's going? Antenna length/size does have much to do with the radiation pattern and where it'll put that radiated signal.
There's more to it, this is only a very 'condensed' explanation, not complete by any means. And since all of this deals with propagation, there ain't nothing 'set' in it, always going to be some variables as to which/what kind of antenna happens to be the best for any particular situation.
I'm tired of typing, there's more I wanna read on the forum before I have to go to work so I quit...
- 'Doc