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Wire thickness for powering my rig
- Thread starter Skyler
- Start date
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength
Figure what your current will be, add 50% or even 100% for headroom, and select the wire size that fits.
(Then figure the voltage drop per unit length at full current and determine whether that's acceptable for your application. If not, go heavier.)
Note that the link you posted doesn't specify the actual wire gauge, just that some of them have a "10 amp" fuse, which may or may not be a good choice. You probably don't want to power a 50-watt radio from anywhere but straight to the battery, anyway.
Figure what your current will be, add 50% or even 100% for headroom, and select the wire size that fits.
(Then figure the voltage drop per unit length at full current and determine whether that's acceptable for your application. If not, go heavier.)
Note that the link you posted doesn't specify the actual wire gauge, just that some of them have a "10 amp" fuse, which may or may not be a good choice. You probably don't want to power a 50-watt radio from anywhere but straight to the battery, anyway.
No. Far too small wire for the length and current being drawn. The radio will be starved for voltage, the wire will likely get warm, and the crappy lighter socket plug will overheat.
Buy a 10 amp power supply and call it a day. For about $20 more than that jumper you could have this. Please explain what in the blue blazes you are trying to do.........we gots ta know!!!!
http://www.copperelectronics.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=1589
http://www.copperelectronics.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=1589
I am thinking he is mobile away from the house... camping maybe?
Skip the lighter thing all together, you would be better off to use some 4 or better yet 2 gauge wire and put your own ends on them to connect to the battery just as Beetle suggested.
The lighter plugs are not well suited to high current loads and will fail quickly under even medium use.
If you really want to do it right, mount a fuse block somewhere by the battery, run a pigtail off of that, put some good quality connectors on the cable that have covers to seal out dirt and moisture ( like this Quick Connect Disconnect Plug Set ) and put the cable and misc connectors in a carry bag for bug out day.
Or get a deep cycle battery, not that hard to carry 25-50 feet.
73
Jeff
Skip the lighter thing all together, you would be better off to use some 4 or better yet 2 gauge wire and put your own ends on them to connect to the battery just as Beetle suggested.
The lighter plugs are not well suited to high current loads and will fail quickly under even medium use.
If you really want to do it right, mount a fuse block somewhere by the battery, run a pigtail off of that, put some good quality connectors on the cable that have covers to seal out dirt and moisture ( like this Quick Connect Disconnect Plug Set ) and put the cable and misc connectors in a carry bag for bug out day.
Or get a deep cycle battery, not that hard to carry 25-50 feet.
73
Jeff
Yes, but unless you have the engine running that 1 volt might mean a lot as the battery is discharging, and you always end up adding something else sooner or later.
Better to go bigger.
And stay away from these things: ( generic picture)
I have run across a lot of these that have 10 gauge leads on them, they heat up under even a moderate load and will start to melt.
I cut one apart, and the wire lead was simply inserted into the metal connector, and the plastic molded around it, not soldered, not crimped.
They will not carry what a 10 gauge wire will
73
Jeff
Better to go bigger.
And stay away from these things: ( generic picture)
I have run across a lot of these that have 10 gauge leads on them, they heat up under even a moderate load and will start to melt.
I cut one apart, and the wire lead was simply inserted into the metal connector, and the plastic molded around it, not soldered, not crimped.
They will not carry what a 10 gauge wire will
73
Jeff
Attachments
That 50w radio will need a constant 13v/7A source; a tad more for SSB.
Wire resistance and poor connectors will only add more loss.
Better to bring a battery to you than to extend the length and compound losses.
I agree . . .
Wire resistance and poor connectors will only add more loss.
Better to bring a battery to you than to extend the length and compound losses.
I agree . . .
Not really any speculation or guessing. We do not need to know what type of radio it is or mode or anything else about it. 50 watts is 50 watts regardless of of radio type or mode. It will still draw pretty much the same current, about 8-9 amps. Let's figure 10 amps worst case for figuring things out. Besides it's an easy number. 10 gauge wire has a resistance of 0.9989 ohms per thousand feet. A 50 foot run requires 100 feet of wire which will have a total resistance of 0.09989 ohms. Lets call it 0.1 ohms. At 10 amps we will have a voltage drop equal V=I x R or V=10 x 0.1 ohms. Voltage drop will be 1 volt with 10 gauge wire. If the supply is 13.8 volts it should remain within spec if we use 10 gauge wire. I would prefer to use 8 gauge to keep some headroom. With 8 gauge the drop will be about 0.6 volts.
Audioshockwave I have that type of connector on my 257HP stock and now I'm wondering, Is it O.K.? I only run the stock power cable with no extension to a 36amp power supply. Should I cut this connector off and just go straight to the power supply with no connector? It does have a fuse in line on both Positive and negative and radio chassis and antenna are both grounded to a 6' copper ground rod.
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