I did the mod and reset a 2015 and it worked great . Reprogrammed the radio with the software , no problems. Thanks guys
-
You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
Yaesu ft-2900r frequency modification mars mod
- Thread starter Happy_Hamer
- Start date
I just attempted this mod on a friends new radio with no success. None of the 3 pads appeared to have solder on them, but my old eyes aren't too good. I desoldered the pad in the instructions just to make sure and still get an error when transmitting in the 156.xxx range. I found a magnifying glass and double checked and the pad is clear.
I have the same radio that I just got about a month ago already modded. I opened it up and the middle pad is soldered, and I can tell it was done after manufacturing. I soldered up the middle pad on the one I'm working on and then can't even enter in the 156.xxx frequency. I've desoldered the middle pad and it's back to normal.
I have done the reset procedure each time.
Any ideas on how to mod this one to transmit on the entire range?
I have the same radio that I just got about a month ago already modded. I opened it up and the middle pad is soldered, and I can tell it was done after manufacturing. I soldered up the middle pad on the one I'm working on and then can't even enter in the 156.xxx frequency. I've desoldered the middle pad and it's back to normal.
I have done the reset procedure each time.
Any ideas on how to mod this one to transmit on the entire range?
I came close to bricking my radio and think there should be a bit more detail up above.
First the solder bead on my radio did not rise up to where you could see it. It was below the small pieces of metal on each side. (I wore a pair of diopter 7 eye glasses from Amazon). I had an adjustable wattage soldering pen, with a very small conical tip, that I turned on low and laid on top of a very narrow piece of solder wick.
You could not tell it if worked because you really could not see the solder to start with.
I guess I could have put it back together at this point and tested, but I was not that smart. I used the solder wick about 3 times, when I noticed what I will call a heat glaze on some of the traces. Luckily it just wiped off.
I should have let it go for a day at this point but I am impulsive and wanted to get it done.
I noticed that the trace to the right that went to the surface mounted part. I figured that if I could cut this trace that it would be the same think as getting the solder out of the contacts. Only that it would no be reversible. I had a very sharp dental pick type tool that after 3 or 4 scrapes easily cut through the trace. ( I should have done it this way to start, seeing as how difficult it would be to remove the solder.)
When I looked closer I saw that I may had damage a trace that was very close and right below the one I wanted to cut. I held my breath and luckily everything so far seems to work.
***** In hindsight perhaps a tinned and very small solder tip with no solder wick would have lifted the minute amount of solder hidden between the 2 contacts. The directions go into no detail at all as if this were just a normal sized job. It wasn't. This is the smallest thing I have ever put a solder iron to by far. It would be nice if the directions went into more detail here for those of us that have not worked on things so small.
Then again with care perhaps scratching the trace is the way to go. Just be very careful of the one right next to it. You might even be able to repair the trace with a product called CircuitWriter
FWIW my RTsystems balked at writing the programming to the radio after resetting it. The trick is to read the data on the radio and then to send it the file that you want to write to the radio. I don't know why that is so, but it worked for me.
First the solder bead on my radio did not rise up to where you could see it. It was below the small pieces of metal on each side. (I wore a pair of diopter 7 eye glasses from Amazon). I had an adjustable wattage soldering pen, with a very small conical tip, that I turned on low and laid on top of a very narrow piece of solder wick.
You could not tell it if worked because you really could not see the solder to start with.
I guess I could have put it back together at this point and tested, but I was not that smart. I used the solder wick about 3 times, when I noticed what I will call a heat glaze on some of the traces. Luckily it just wiped off.
I should have let it go for a day at this point but I am impulsive and wanted to get it done.
I noticed that the trace to the right that went to the surface mounted part. I figured that if I could cut this trace that it would be the same think as getting the solder out of the contacts. Only that it would no be reversible. I had a very sharp dental pick type tool that after 3 or 4 scrapes easily cut through the trace. ( I should have done it this way to start, seeing as how difficult it would be to remove the solder.)
When I looked closer I saw that I may had damage a trace that was very close and right below the one I wanted to cut. I held my breath and luckily everything so far seems to work.
***** In hindsight perhaps a tinned and very small solder tip with no solder wick would have lifted the minute amount of solder hidden between the 2 contacts. The directions go into no detail at all as if this were just a normal sized job. It wasn't. This is the smallest thing I have ever put a solder iron to by far. It would be nice if the directions went into more detail here for those of us that have not worked on things so small.
Then again with care perhaps scratching the trace is the way to go. Just be very careful of the one right next to it. You might even be able to repair the trace with a product called CircuitWriter
FWIW my RTsystems balked at writing the programming to the radio after resetting it. The trick is to read the data on the radio and then to send it the file that you want to write to the radio. I don't know why that is so, but it worked for me.
Did mine today.. no longer a solder bridge, it's a chip resistor now that has to be removed
I believe that you will find that the value of that SMD resistor is zero ohms.
Hi so what is the mod for European model for the 2900?Mine have soldered the two joints and the third no. I buy this radio used so i see this already be modified and re-modified
Attachments
Last edited:
That's when I came across a simple modification to the yeasu ft2900r mobile 2m transceiver that I had never heard about. When you buy the radio, it comes with the ability to receive and broadcast on the two-meter ham band exclusively. To my knowledge, this hack opens the tx function on the complete RX range.. For legal concerns, I'd like to inquire about a particular mod that I've seen mentioned on here.
If the mod is done yes it will TX everywhere it RX's. It's only legal to use on two meters.
Hello, I am Brazilian and I made this mod on a version 25 10 board 33 (European).
Initially, the radio came to me already with mod 134 - 174 MHz, and I needed to undo it to have only 144 - 148 MHz, removing the solder on top near the 3.5 crystal...
However, I soldered it as shown in the photo and it is not transmitting (RF), no RF signal... only TX on the display...
I returned it to how it was before, resetting it 5 times, but nothing happened, no signal...
I do not have a programming cable, so I did not make a backup.
sorry my English by copilot kkkk
Para quem entende português.. meu radio veio desbloqueado, varrendo de 134 á 174, mas precisei bloquear para entrar na norma da Anatel, 144 - 148 Mhz, como o radio era versão 2010 união europeia, a placa frontal é diferente das outras.. tirei o resistor preto e logo em seguida, parou de transmitir.. voltei como era antes e ate agora nada.. eu resetei no modo full 5 vezes, não sei se meu problema é cabo flat ou se precisa jampear mais de um JP 200x
preciso mesmo de ajuda
Initially, the radio came to me already with mod 134 - 174 MHz, and I needed to undo it to have only 144 - 148 MHz, removing the solder on top near the 3.5 crystal...
However, I soldered it as shown in the photo and it is not transmitting (RF), no RF signal... only TX on the display...
I returned it to how it was before, resetting it 5 times, but nothing happened, no signal...
I do not have a programming cable, so I did not make a backup.
sorry my English by copilot kkkk
Para quem entende português.. meu radio veio desbloqueado, varrendo de 134 á 174, mas precisei bloquear para entrar na norma da Anatel, 144 - 148 Mhz, como o radio era versão 2010 união europeia, a placa frontal é diferente das outras.. tirei o resistor preto e logo em seguida, parou de transmitir.. voltei como era antes e ate agora nada.. eu resetei no modo full 5 vezes, não sei se meu problema é cabo flat ou se precisa jampear mais de um JP 200x
preciso mesmo de ajuda
Last edited: