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Yagi waterproofing ideas

Funny you should say that. If you actually know HOW to use silicone sealant, it is an EXCELLENT way to waterproof connectors. You just need to learn how to use it PROPERLY. I started using it over 40 years ago and NO......I am NOT a slow learner. FIRST cover the connectors with some black electrical tape, THEN cover the entire connection with silicone. Since the silicone does not directly contact the connectors, there is NO corrosion at all from the acetic acid released by it. If you need to open the connection, all you need to do is use a SHARP knife and cut down thru the silicone and underlying tape and simply peel it back off the cable. I have cut open connections after 20 years to find the connection still water tight and clean and shiny connectors that looked just like the day they were installed. Do not dismiss something simply because you do not understand it. Yes there are other ways to do it, however silicone is neither a cheap nor lazy way of doing and in fact it WILL last IF DONE PROPERLY.
Captain, I agree 100% with the way you are describing to use it.......You are covering and protecting the connector first.....
My comment is meant for those that would just smear and coat the outside with silicone sealant...... Not a good way at all, and lazy and cheap......
 
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Although, I believe that a good layer of coax self vulcanizing sealant tape, covered with a layer of sun resistant 3M tape is better....... And easier to remove when required for whatever reason.....
 
The $35 was for the right stuff recommended in the link provided a few posts up. It’s all fun, mistakes included. Next project is finding a method to attenuate output on 2x 4cx300 amp. Lowest I can do from radio is 5w and the jump is too high sometimes.
 
What's wrong about using silicone caulking?
It is also a nightmare to deal with, when serviceability is concerned. In the wireless industry, the process is a layer of black tape, a layer of weatherproofing tape (butyl rubber mastic) and an outer layer of black tape. Early on, we used Scotchkote over the outside layer, but found it was not of value. If the connector needs to be accessed for whatever reason, a knife is used to cut open the seal and the inner layer of tape is removed, revealing what *should* be what was there the day it was installed, if it was done correctly.
 
Although, I believe that a good layer of coax self vulcanizing sealant tape, covered with a layer of sun resistant 3M tape is better....... And easier to remove when required for whatever reason.....

The bottom line......IMHO....is that WHATEVER you use to waterproof connections, it is HIGHLY advisable to first use a layer of electrical tape over the connection THEN use whatever after. It makes opening that connection SO much easier. I admit to using just silicone on my first connections back when I first started in radio, and basically ruined the connectors because they were unusable after that. I was 14 years old. I am now 61. I learned a lot in those 47 years between being 14 and 61.
 
What about the Coax-Seal product that is sold by antenna parts outlet? I purchased a roll to seal up the Avanti Moonraker 4 I am about to put up., Should I use electrical tape underneath on the gammas?
 
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What about the Coax-Seal product that is sold by antenna parts outlet? I purchased a roll to seal up the Avanti Moonraker 4 I am about to put up., Should I use electrical tape underneath on the gammas?

If it werer me I would. Ihave seen some of that stuff literally melt into every little crevice of a connector and make it near impossible to remove without a solvent. I was given several heliax connectors for some LDF4-50 cable that had that on it and it was a real bitch to remove all of it but at about $40 a piece I was willing to do some elbow work.
 
What about the Coax-Seal product that is sold by antenna parts outlet? I purchased a roll to seal up the Avanti Moonraker 4 I am about to put up., Should I use electrical tape underneath on the gammas?
coax seal is butyl rubber mastic tape. Is is softer than the stuff we use n the industry, but if applied correctly, it will work the same. ALWAYS use a layer of black tape under and over the mastic.
 
I've been using ss30 on every joint and connection. I even use it on the so239 threads. I had to drop my sy4 beam for Milton and am tearing it down for general maintenance. Im seeing some joints that i didn't use ss30 on and and those all have water/dampness in them. Ill never use coax seal again because of the mess and i dont beleive it helps at all with condensation.
 
I like using heat shrink tubing. Non-adhesive line type, and I will also use Ultra- black Permatex to seal the ends of the heat shrink tubing, just in case the tubing might draw in water by (capillary action). Just wipe a small amount around the ends of the heat shrink tubing, after you shrink it on the connector. And if I have to remove it, I will carefully cut the heat shrink tubing with a knife and use a small wire wheel to remove the Ultra-Black form the connector side (metal) not the coax jacket side, usually I can just pick off the rest of the ultra-black with my fingers and your good to go! Been doing it this way for over 25 years, and I have never had a problem with water ingress
 

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