hi first of all you guys here are ausome. i am 84 yrs old and have most of my marbles but loosing some. i have a fl2100b that wont key up it has worked flawless for me i very seldome ran i full power. we it quit no out put i have many people tell me what to do. well 9 yrs ago i fought cancer and think i have done well since but i am scared to tackel any big problems as i am not sure of myself any more. i had another ham take a look at it for me said he checed it all over. so i hooked it up set all loading amp it seemed ok so i tried it no out put zero. well started at radio cable from transmitter to amp 12 volt so hooked to alc and e where it always worked nothing so i listen for relay didnt kick in. well i think thats my problem. but dont know how to fix it. i live in alberta can. 20 yrs ago i would have dug rite in but am little shy. is there anyone that could help me. the tubes are a nice orange. thank you in advance
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yeasu fl2100b wont key up
- Thread starter jimfish
- Start date
If the tubes' anodes are showing color I don't have to ask if the plate-current meter shows a reading. They only show color when they draw current from the high-voltage supply.
I'll guess the relay does indeed go "click" when the mike is keyed. The uncertainty I have to start with is whether or not the radio's drive power reaches the tubes.
And if it does, are the tracks being blocked on the output side of the tubes?
Congratulations on making it to age 84. Sure hope I do . Just the same, this amplifier has literally deadly voltages inside it. Opening it up to investigate and/or fix a failure is only safe if you have the training to avoid premature death from those hazards.
We got in the habit of putting a RCA (phono) jack on the rear panel of this model. The four screw terminals are kinda clumsy to hook and unhook. The "ALC" screw is NOT used to activate the amplifier. The one that does this is marked "RY" if memory serves.
But this leaves me with one doubt. You should see the radio's output power if the relay is not going "click" when you key the radio. Should just feed through as if the amplifier were just a coax jumper.
Not sure how much of the picture I have here. Do you hear the relay? Should be loud enough to hear the "click" when the radio is keyed.
Besides, the tubes' anodes should only get hot enough to show color if the relay is activated.
Need more detail to sort out just what you're seeing .
And not seeing.
The plate meter must be showing current. Does the reading change in step with the radio's output power?
73
I'll guess the relay does indeed go "click" when the mike is keyed. The uncertainty I have to start with is whether or not the radio's drive power reaches the tubes.
And if it does, are the tracks being blocked on the output side of the tubes?
Congratulations on making it to age 84. Sure hope I do . Just the same, this amplifier has literally deadly voltages inside it. Opening it up to investigate and/or fix a failure is only safe if you have the training to avoid premature death from those hazards.
We got in the habit of putting a RCA (phono) jack on the rear panel of this model. The four screw terminals are kinda clumsy to hook and unhook. The "ALC" screw is NOT used to activate the amplifier. The one that does this is marked "RY" if memory serves.
But this leaves me with one doubt. You should see the radio's output power if the relay is not going "click" when you key the radio. Should just feed through as if the amplifier were just a coax jumper.
Not sure how much of the picture I have here. Do you hear the relay? Should be loud enough to hear the "click" when the radio is keyed.
Besides, the tubes' anodes should only get hot enough to show color if the relay is activated.
Need more detail to sort out just what you're seeing .
And not seeing.
The plate meter must be showing current. Does the reading change in step with the radio's output power?
73
thank you kindly for the information yes it shows plate voltage and no the relay dont click sorry i said alc it is the ry screw i can see the radio out put if i put radio on fm then output shows up on meter (bird) i have owned it for 20 years and it has worked great. i never abused it never ran at full power for long. but after reading your information it was the first time i have open the amp up too look i believe if it works keep your hands out. but when i was looking to see where ry goes i noticed that the board under the main caps there is some dioades or resisters have been removed this had to be done before i bought it. i was very suprised to see how clean it is inside. i really thank ful for your help here in alberta its hard to find some one honest enought to trust at price of labour. this picture of the removed parts
Attachments
If the relay won't go click, the first suspect is the 1000uf 25 Volt filter capacitor. If it's the original part, it should have failed years ago. When it does, the voltage needed to close the relay won't be sufficient.
73
73
